Top 10 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Questions & Answers

Removing the turn signal mechanism from the steering column is easy and can be accomplished in under a half hour. First you should remove one of the battery cables as you should have no power available when removing or installing the wiring harness.then remove the front of the steering wheel.These usually just snap on or off. Remoce the steering wheel using a small puller once you have removed the nut. . Usually available for aroung $10. Now that the signal mechanism is exposed you can wemove the plastic horn ring and also the 3 screws securing the mechanism to the steering column. Leave the mechanism on the colum for now. You can however reomove the screw that holds the lights, wiper and turn signal arm and let it hang free as there is no need to replace it if everything is working. Next you have to remove the two panesl under the dash immediately under the steering column. Tracing the wiring from the turn signal to where it enters a wiring block. This block has all the wiring from the turn signal, lights , cruise control and turn signals all on different modules. You are only concerned with the module from your tirn signals. To remove this module you have to separate the block by using a small ratchet and a 7mm socket. once the the bolt holdingb the block has been completely loosened the inner block can be oulled away from the outer block. Now the module containg the turn signal harness can be removed from the inner blosk and now you are close to removing the harness but first there is a plastic sleeve that protest the wiring as it passes along the lower part of the colimn. Squeezing one end of the sleeve you can push it out until it clears the colum. it can now be opened and reomoved from the harness. Now you can reomve the mechanism from the column and ease the harness up throught the steering solumn being careful to guide it through. The last two wires on the module , a beize and green wire that ties internally to the column will need to be cut and spliced into the new harness. Using the reverse proceedure you can install the new turn signal. First time may take a hour or so . One gets better with practice. Good luck John

I have a similar problem with my 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. The way I open the hood is to reach my hand between the radiator and the front of the car, and for me there is a bar running right up the middle if I follew that too the top, and on the drivers side of that bar should be the hood release, and I feel around till I feel the hood release cable, and then I push on the lever that the cable is attached too, most of the time this works. Hope this helps.

Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Most likely it is running too ritch. should be around 7%. Mine did ecactly the same thing and I had several things done . Had the throttle body cleaned and installed a O2 senser.runs great now.

Hope this helps

If it was out of gas, you'll have to cycle the key to the on position, and off again several times. You should be able to hear the fuel pump cut in (inside the gas tank) for a couple of seconds each time you turn the key to the "run" position. If you can't hear it whirring, it is either not getting power to it, or it is fried. If you can hear it, but the car still won't run after cycling the key several times, you will want to change your fuel filter, and try it again.
If it continues to sputter... start and stop, it will most likely be the MAF. (mass air flow). Your best bet for that would be an auto wrecker. Electical parts are way overpriced, and if that isn't the problem, you won't be able to return it.

the fuse box will be in 1 of 3 places (1)glovebox (2)under dash by drivers foot kick panel or (3) under hood .

if u can't see the diagram go to the link, just match the numbers on the coil to the cylinder numbers.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-8156.htm

One cooling fan runs when the engine reaches a certain temp. The second cooling fan is designed to run when the a/c is turned on, providing more air flow throw radiator. However, it will cause no harm or damage if both fans run at the same time, with or without the a/c turned on.

all of the components for the top, including a plug in the side of the motor to fill with fluid from are under the back seat area. Refill for fluid is dex trans fluid

u can pry the window frame open a little slide a block to keep it open and slip anything u can hook the inside door handle to open door some parts stores sell these