no model car told. just and engine floating in space. why"? 8 models there are...
we can not see damaged parts
no photo of it posted.
1986 car>? not told but I see 1 post going to 1986 by you. 1 clue only.
stock pump here as vast cars this old have modification and hacks.again we cant see it.
i have never seen a 1 stud pump ever.
the engine block>?
5.0L cutless supreme.? 307
has stinky CARB for fuel and matching mech pump.
the pump has 2 bolts or studs
if you remove the pump
the 2 holes or studs are clearly there
so measure the not broken one.
that is the size for both (inches )
5/16" ! or 3/8" SAE bolts.
take the good one to car parts store.
lay it on the counter and ask for a match.
or run nut Known sizes 5/16? and if fits bingo.
the measure length of good stud. 2"?
end story.
if the old one is seized to the block that means we do ,the 10 page
answer.?
or learn to youtube remove broken stud from a block.
all of this is basic mechanics stuff,
super super basics.
if the stud is stuck I heat it up smoking hot and twist it out with vise-grips.(gloves on leather)
next time post photos of damage.?
nobody can guess what pickle you are in, blind.
sorry . now some examples .
the stud if sheared off clean at cast iron tread boring
those must be easy out removed ezout.
google that see 10000000 hits.
what I do is file bad stud end flat . (a tool)
then center punch it.(a tool)
and drill it out 1/6" cobalt drilled. dead center
then go larger drill to ezout best fit.
beyond this is a 10 page cure. even drilling it out to root thread size 5/16 (root not this) and digging out the old treads. (spiral metal )
tedious.
if stud is still high, (center of it present) there
is a tool called EZ-stud extracter.
note not sheared clean off 100% and flush
see now photos work?
i heat it up red hot on some. (exh. man)
just heating it up red hot and let cool fully
it breaks the internal rust bond and now comes out 10x more easy.
or as it cools down spray PEN oil on it.
now wd40 ,real PEN oil.
as it cools it creates a thermal vacuum and sucks in the PEN oil. even repeating this me 5 times
I have one this battle.
many times
on one super rare manifold I took it to a special shop
the EDM milled it out. 1 atom at time.
came back like new. but was small manifold no a block
off CJ5, rare parts.
HERE IS EDM DEMO FOR USE ON RARE ENGINES.
OR SMALL MANFOLDS ETC
https://youtu.be/pty-QKRzmeg
MORE
https://youtu.be/m2gm1YDuJU4
IF THERE IS WILL THERE IS A WAY !
IF REMOVING ANY STUD AND THEN YOU THEN END UP EZ-OUT BUSTED, EDM IS THE CURE
OR EVEN START WITH EDM FIRST.
https://youtu.be/tQKxivbsFFE?t=211
END IDEAS , BLIND, OP POSTS NO PHOTOS.
There are very few things that make the H/O cutlass any different from the other "G" body GM vehicles. I believe all Chilton and Mitchell manuals for a early 80's G body will have wiring diagrams in them.
Para su Oldsmobile Bravada 1998, los colores de los cables de los altavoces son: derecho frontal (-), verde oscuro; altavoces traseros, 6 1/2" puertas traseras; izquierda trasera (+), marr?n; izquierda trasera (-), amarillo. Siempre verifique todos los cables, colores de los cables y diagramas antes de aplicar cualquier informaci?n encontrada aqu? a su Oldsmobile Bravada 1998.
Check your engine oil using the oil dipstick located on the engine - you need to add oil to the fill line as shown on the dipstick. You should have the oil replaced regularly (every 3-6 months) and keep your eye on the level if the engine is leaking oil underneath or burning a lot of it.
WOW A 92 STILL ON THE ROAD, AMAZING.
3.3L LITER, CLEARLY TOLD ,BRAVO.
BACK THEN ONLY PAPER BOOKS, NO DIGITAL
SO WHAT WAS SCANNED NOW DAYS (PAPER TO PDF) IS SPARSE.
BUT CAN BE SEEN HERE
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
TOP IS DIS, DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM.
My best advice is pull the glove box cover open a small amount take a small flat head screw driver and try to reach in and release the latch good Luck let me know Mike L.
what an easy question on EFI.
well dead engine RIGHT?, not told the evidence at all
did you buy a dead car?
well if the PCM sees these hard errors.
PCM sees spark bad in any why it cuts fuel dead 1 or 2 ways. by law and to not do Crash and burn as seen on TV . facts.
pcm sees throttle , fully depressed due to driver doing WOT magic secret UNFLOOD mode. or TPS bad.
PCM sees CMP or CMP bad or grossly out of time, cuts spark and in turn(logic) cuts fuel 1 or 2 ways. or both.
IMMO is not happy the IMMO lamp does not like your KEY and will not spark or will not injector or on some not crank or al 3.
IMMO is the tech name for engine IMMOBILIZERS all.
to test the pump , we must crank it and do test at the same time.
we check IMMO lamp, and fuse first
scan the PCM PCM cranking , OMG it told me why it fails wow OBD2 we love it , in USA,(our invention too)
the if no progress voltage at pump pins or hear, 12vdc is a bad pump fuel pressure dead ,under 30PSI is dead.
if 0vdc at pump and at Fuel pump relay the relay might be bad;.
Bench-testing the driver's window switch is performed by checking for continuity between two pins using a digital multimeter; pins G and E when in the UP position and pins G and D when in the DOWN position. A better way to test the circuits would be with the window switch connector still plugged-in and the ignition ON; check for voltage on pin/wire E when in the UP position and pin/wire D when in the DOWN position. If the multimeter does not read battery voltage, the switch has failed. You can read about how to replace the power window switch here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-power-window-switch-by-marvin-sunderland
old 93 cars, have lots of problems.
I guess the fan is in front of the engine and near rear of the RADIATOR.?
no engine told of 3 at all and they are not the SAME.
first is check for blown fuses, (easy low hanging fruit,no?)
the fans is electric, so says SM service manual
and has 2 wires.
one is ground
other is 12vdc to the fan relay that must be good.
the fan can be hot wire tested, easy
boy those old drawings are a mess.
fuse link F blow,, op right
I do not know if this is AC only or mixed. (engine/AC / fans)
Doby , you have like 100 posts here for one car. ( a record)is this car really that sick? but never told 1 problem at all. this post.just a HUNT, game.?you posted this many times and never bought GM Olds full service manual for it, that tells this answer clear as day./The PRNDL switch is on or inside the transmission and no engine told nor transmission told exactly how can there be any answer?"Do you keep it in park or neutral"THM440/4T60/ME9 TRANS (ME9 is RPO code)<< guess 1THM440 is original name or pure hydramatic box.GM box it is.there is shift solenoid in the shifter console,Park lock out, has long history of changes.on some the PRNDL switch on side if tranny box goes to ECUand if not in park or N, no spark happens.on others there are cable to key switch to shifter linkagethat blocks key actions using this cable. and more. manuals for this 34 year old car are hard to find, now.the real service manual will cover al Vin cars that yearit will cover all park lock out schemes use then, of at least 3.pays you 20 bucks and see what is here.https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp1988 only books then so online help is sparse and are hand scanned pages, only, but , at least try.
band damper motors (actuators, servo's regardless type)
you already now the heater core is 180f + hot.
even touching its 2 lines at the fire wall proved that
and OBD2 scans show ECT reads 180F so engine side is good
so then you fail to know the days has what is called heater./distribution air system.
that huge box of damper there that love to fail
even the service manual covers this.
mine even shows removing the damper motor (vac or electr)
and turn the damper hinge rod by hand to prove the damper door is not stuck if not stuck heat flows, hard. to one of many outputs called MODE dampers.
we then test the mode dampers. see why it fails.
all this is under the dash keep the hood closed or go broke throwing part not bad.
the SM service manual on line shows chapter HVAC
and covers every test to do , in all Chrysler products.
oops I see old vacuum servo motors here , actuators modern name
bad controls or bad servo's or even fell off vacuum lines
I see 2 motor servo's too, temperature damper DC motor
and mode, motor drive. called electric inlet actuator.( is Recirc )
and and AUX motor damper drive.
found the hybrid schematic for this car, the whole thing vac and electric.
https://imgur.com/a/cHq4CCY
ONE CAN WATCH EACH DAMPER MOVE OR RUN THEM BY HANDS
AND EASILY PROVE WHICH OF THE 5 FAIL.
SENSE HOT AIR IS ON THE LEFT THERE
WE KNOW KNOW VACUUM SIDE IS BAD, HE DAMPERS, STUCK
THE SERVO BAD, OR THE CONTROL PORTS TO IT ARE BAD.
EVEN A VACUUM LINE FELL OFF OR ROTTED OFF. 23 YEARS OLD