20 Most Recent 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - Page 9 Questions & Answers

check fuel pump fuse. check fuel pump relay , check to see if your getting power to the pump
if all above checks out good replace fuel pump

Turn signal switch needs to be replaced.

By the fuel tank...left side of car{drivers side] behind the rear wheel...quick connect fittings

Since your cat was replaced you should be looking at fuel problems...even gas cap seal....check fuel pressure,fuel regulator,and evap system.>canister or purge solinoid,o2 senser...high nox is caused by the cat or fuel problems on these engines...high pressure in the combustion chamber...lean condition>air leak on hoses,or high compression caused by carbon build up ...there is no EGR on this car so don't waste time looking for it...hope this points you to your problem

underneath the steering wheel.











TIM.

Check the wires between the drivers door and the body(inside the rubber boot) cut a **** in the boot to see inside. The wires often break here form the door being opened and closed more than the rest.

I had the same problem with the same model . If it is 3.4 crank balancer shaft is broken.

Any plug in particular, or all plugs?

Try swapping leads and see if the 'no spark' moves with the leads.

Then try moving the plugs around for the same reason.

It will be one or the other, either plugs or leads.

hope this helps - don't forget to vote!

Probably the fan, but you'll have to test it to be sure. If you hook it straight to the battery and it goes slow, you'll know it's bad. You can do this from the engine compartment. The blower is in front of the passenger seat on the firewall. The purple wire side is positive. If you have questions, please let me know.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.

CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

1. Some models require you to remove the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body.
2. Some models with cruise control have a vacuum modulator attached to the thermostat housing with a bracket. It your vehicle is equipped as such, remove the bracket from the housing.
3. On the 4-cylinder engines, unbolt the water outlet from the thermostat housing, remove the outlet from the housing and lift the thermostat out of the housing. On all other models, unbolt the water outlet from the intake manifold, remove the outlet and lift the thermostat out of the manifold.

To install:

1. Clean both of the mating surfaces and run a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) bead of R.T.V. (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealer in the groove of the water outlet.

1. Install the thermostat (spring towards engine) and bolt the water outlet into place while the R.T.V. sealer is still wet. Tighten the bolts 17-21 ft. lbs. (23-28 Nm) on all but the 2.2L engine. Other engines tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
2. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal. Fill the cooling system, start the engine and top off. Check for leaks after the car is started and correct as required.

You'll need to add some fluid and see where it leaks out. Its common for hoses to leak/blow. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hi Ken.If I remember right the plastic cover that the wires go thru slides onto the valve cover.You should be able to slide it up and it should come off.The other way is that the cover is a 2 piece cover and it should snap apart.Look real closely at it and you should see the snap tabs.I don`t remember having to remove the engine mount to replace them.I know what your are talking about when you say that they poked the wires because I`ve seen people do this.I also know the place your talking about because I used to work at Bergstrom`s just down the street from there.Try what I mentioned here and let me know what you find.Good luck.

have the egr valve checked it may be sticking

Yes, it's rather easy, usually involves loosening a nut and sliding the adjuster. It shouldn't be too hard to get to it. Usually it's on top of the transmission.

There are two codes which mostly comes. Code 33 is the MAP sensor, and code 43 is knock sensor. Check and replace both the sensors.This will help. the knock sensor is located at the rear of the block on the right hand side. It is round with a signal wire going to it. This would be looking up from the bottom of the car. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

This can be a real challenge. The heater core may be under the dashboard. Check under the hood where the heater hoses go into the cabin. If there are bolts there , you be lucky and it may be possible to chqnge it from the firewall side.

Sensors going bad can easily cause this. If was a computer or heating issue it wouldn't start right back up. If crankshaft sensor is going bad the second it doesn't signal computer the car dies.

The pressure will revive itself. Just start it and check for leaks.

two things. one try adjusting the idle screw only if this happened over a longer period of time. Second look at the timing. the distributor turning just a 16th of an inch will make it idle fast.

You can't align the front end. It takes very specialized tools, training, and an alignment machine to align the front end of any vehicle. Take your vehicle to a trusted tire shop and have then perform an alignment. This is not a DIY job.