20 Most Recent 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Thinking crank sensor,don't know if it's a 3.1 or not,3.4?Anyway with the engine running CAREFULLY tap the crank sensor with a dowel or driveway marker,some long stick. If the sensor is bad the engine will stumble or quit when you tap it,Same test also will check for broken board in the ecm also.

Just a couple of suggestions, it could be that the injectors are not firing. Each injector has a solenoid on top of it with an electrical connector, the injector signals come from the control Electronic Control Module. You could have a defective module. Was the "check engine light"on prior to the failure?? Have you verified that you have ignition?? If you have ignition, replaced the fuel filter, and it's still not starting, I would perform a fuel pressure test to make sure you have appropriate fuel pressure. If you are not getting the appopriate pressure, then I would look at the fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator.

It is possible you have a short. Check your tail lights and see if your wiring hasn't rubbed through, or that you don't have power wires touching the body.

I will assume it is a 2.5 liter. The control module is bolted to the back of the block underneath the intake manifold. The assembly incorporates the crank sensor, module and coils. Just follow the spark plug wires and you will find it.

you have a loose connection that plugs in the back to the cluster or a faulty capaitor in the circuitry in the board of the cluster. If you have it replaced the replacement cluster would have to be programmed to your vehicle identification number to operate. This is required so the odometer will register the milage. Most auto repair shops can do this if you need to have it done or any general motors dealer

it should be located way up under the dash behind the fuse box along side the drivers side foot panel,, ( the panel your left foot would hit on the side, ) remove that panel, and look up in there,, its not actually under the dash, but up in that side panel

i check ur fuel injectors

It's most likely a vacuum line, look under your hood (close to the cowl panel) for a disconnected, cracked or broken vacuum line.

In some rear cases, it could be the vacuum switch (in dash). Or vacuum diaphragm (under dash).

Hope this helps you ???

The ECM on this car will shut down the injector driver circuit if one of the six injectors has a coil out of tolerance. (Shorted coil or resistance out of parameters) Quick check. Unplug two wire cap to injector one at a time. (hold/push wire clip inwards then gently wiggle/lift cap off---careful with wires) With one unplugged try starting. If no start- plug back and use same procedure on next injector and so on.........In most cases if bad injector coil the engine will start when it is located. Replace injector. Some say the ECM shuts dirver circuit down to prevent further damage to switching circuit.

Hi, it is possible there is too much clearance. Some things that can cause grabbing are hydraulic oil leaking from wheel brake cylinder, excessive brake lining dust, or shoes not adjusted up to the drum. Your self-adjusters should be pulling the shoes up to the drum whenever you backup, but one or both may not be adjusting. You can manually adjust them if that is the case. Please inspect and check these items, and let me know if you have any questions.

You could have gotten the wrong drums or brake shoes. When you do the drums there should be some adjustment that you have to do to get the shoes closer to the drum. If you have removed all the slack then I would guess your shoes are wrong. You should compare them with the old ones if you still have them. It has happened to me before.

The problem relates to vacuum leak--------------

Intake manifold leaking (air) on the INSIDE of the engine.

You can first take the PCV valve out (of engine, not vacuum) and then see if there is still a considerable amount of vacuum present at the breather hose.

Second, you can take the intake hose off the throttle body and just cover up the air intake with your hand and see if it brings the engine back down to normal RPMs.

A vacuum leak can cause this as well as an idle motor that is got dirty up or stuck closed. Try taking the idle motor off and cleaning it. Also check for a stuck open EGR valve.

The idle motor is right next to the throttle body and the EGR valve looks like a little spaceship with a vacuum going to it on the intake manifold.

These are basic possibilities for the problem you mentioned. But if all this possibilities checked ok then you need to get error codes retrieved.----------

As you mentioned that check/service engine light comes on.So this indicates there is error code got set in the cars computer, that's why the service engine light is coming on.At autozone service center its absolutely free to get car scanned to retrieve codes.But they have scan tool for car models after year 1995.But for car model year before 1995 they don't have scan too.The car year before 1995 requires OBD1 tool, to scan error codes.And car model after 1995 year requires OBD2 tool.Obd 2 tool using scan center will be easily available.But for OBD1 tool scan center.You will have to check out local car parts store.They will guide you where you can fine OBD1 scan center to check, what is the error stored in your cars computer.-----------

Once you get the error code, it will be much easier, for you.Because error code will exactly point the faulty part to be checked out.------------ Also some autopart store provides OBD1 scan tool at rent.----------

This should help.thanks.Helpmech.

I'm sorry for your dilemma, I would hate to give an answer, without a few questions. Is it the engine itself that actually gets louder, or the exhaust is where it's sounding louder? what kind of shape does the exhaust appear to be in? Being an older car, assuming with a lot of miles, there are certain things that could pertain to this...What kind of noise? Is it a rattling? An old heat plate could be the culprit, My first thought was if it reverberates back to the engine, it could be the catalytic comb has failed and broken apart to sift into the exhaust to cause blockage and emit noise from both ends, obviously from vibration noises and restrictive back exhaust. Is there a lack - feeling of power?