20 Most Recent 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Questions & Answers

In a Salvage YardThen you have it sand blasted,paint it & buynew bushings & end link kit

check to see if any spark on a plug from either cylinder if you do then check for fuel if no spark and lots of gas the tips of your plugs will be wet so you then know you got a coil or module problem or if no gas could be a relay or fuel pump just have to check it out .

jrtvett's "unplug one injector and start" troubleshooting procedure would work if one injector is bad. If more than one injector is bad, then not so sure.
Like you mentioned, one or more injector(s) can go bad and it causes the others to stop working as well. After our experience, I am convinced this observation (fault mode) is correct (see below). Its as if upon warmup the solenoid in the faulty injector shorts, resulting in short circuit of signals to all the other injectors.
We have a 1989 Olds Cutlass Ciera with the 2.8L V6 that recently had the same fault: At least one injector went bad after warmup, then engine refused to restart. All other possibilities were eliminated, including crank shaft sensor, ECM, ignition pack, idle start valve, bad gas, rail pressure, etc.
No Service Engine light illuminated, and there were no fault codes in the ECM computer.
The jrtvett procedure could not easily be utilized in our case because all the injector connectors are underneath the intake manifold and inaccessible.
My cousin is a Ford mechanic told me of an analysis procedure Ford uses to troubleshoot injector problems. They display rail pressure on a LCD or CRT monitor and can see pressure drop with each injector's opening. Unfortunately, if the car is not starting, then this test will not be of much use. The engine has to be idling or at least all of the solenoids in all of the injectors operational to use this test. If engine won't start, then its clear none of the injectors are opening as described above, then no fluctuations in rail pressure would be displayed.
The shop that was working on our car decided to replaced all of the injectors, and the engine now runs like new.
Due to inaccessibility of injectors and fact these injectors were inexpensive ($40-$50 each), it was wise just to replace all six. Grading old injectors is not exact science.

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May need new battery connectors and a good tune up

Try changing your fuel filter and add injector cleaner to your gas tank

Maybe your fuel injectors are clogged.

I'm assuming you have the 3.3l v-6. When I look up the part, it seems to have slotted holes. Therefore, it is designed to be adjusted after installation. If your tps has these slotted bolt holes, adjust it to satisfy the settings in the test procedure below.

1. Remove air cleaner. Disconnect the TPS harness from the TPS.
2. Using suitable jumper wires, connect a digital voltmeter J-29125-A or equivalent to the correct TPS terminals A and B.
3. With the ignition ON and the engine running, The TPS voltage should be 0.3-1.0 volts at base idle to approximately 4.5 volts at wide open throttle.
4. If the reading on the TPS is out of specification, check the minimum idle speed before replacing the TPS.
5. If the voltage reading is correct, remove the voltmeter and jumper wires and reconnect the TPS connector to the sensor.
6. Reinstall the air cleaner.

Any after market electronics put on? on the engine harness maybe there are a couple connectors that got put in wrong place? any transmission or engine work done to it lately?

There is a component in the vehicle drawing power that should be shut down when the vehicle is shut down. Tests need to be run to identify which component is drawing the power when the vehicle is idle. Here is an article and video on the subject to give you some background. You need to get the car to a competent mechanic to run tests for you. Solving Automotive Electrical Problems

It could , do back pressure test . pull O2 sensor out an see if it starts an runs Testing for plugged clogged restricted exhaust converter

It sounds like one or both of two problems. The radiator cores may be clogged and not letting enough coolant through, or the radiator and condenser fins may be clogged and not letting enough air through. The only other thing I've seen with the same symptoms is an A/C unit running too much pressure on the high side which overheats the condenser and in turn the radiator.

There are like 50 nuts, bolts, and screws to remove. Plus you have to remove the radio, instrument panel, and heater controls. You may have to drop or pull out the steering column. Also you have to disconnect the wiring harness. To remove the dash. Then you can remove the speakers. You really need a manual in hand when doing this job. Taking it apart is the easy part, getting it back in right, is when you need the manual.

Unlikely cassette clock is draining the battery, but there may be other drains. Pull all the fuses, and while the key is out, use an amp meter to measure draw though where each fuse goes....