20 Most Recent 2004 Mazda MPV - Page 9 Questions & Answers

If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.

your local parts store should have that info for you.

1. External Leaks
You need to get the vehicle to a mechanic to check all flexible coolant hoses, hose connections, around the exterior of the water pump and the entire radiator. To do properly the vehicle also needs to be on a hoist. If there is an external leak you should find coolant dripping from the front of the car while the engine is idling and the cooling system is fully pressurized. However it depends how bad the leak is and it's location.

2. Internal Leak

If coolant is leaking into the engine this is a serious problem and needs to be identified by a competent mechanic. For example, if you have a blown head gasket coolant will blow into the engine and contaminate the engine oil. If you check the oil in the engine's sump it should be completely free from coolant contamination.
You should also check the coolant in the radiator for any signs of oil contamination. If there is coolant in the oil then there will also likely be engine oil which has blown into the engines coolant passages and then mixed with the coolant.
IF you can find traces of coolant in your engine oil (or oil in the coolant) the likely problem will be a blown head gasket and the head on the engine will need to be removed and inspected .

Blown head gaskets are usually a result of an owner allowing the engine to overheat as a result of low coolant level, failed water pump or faulty thermostat. Overheating can also cause major damage to the head on the engine.

I would try looking at the IAC Idle air control,

As this is on the rear bank the intake Plenum has to come off or at least be raised, did mine just a few days ago wasn't as difficult as I expected. However if you are going there replace all 3 coils while you are there and check the plugs as well. Allow 2-3 hours for first time.

fan tempature switch...replace

15 hours to replace both sides, shop for a price and decide if it's worth it or do it yourself but it takes some skill to do it yourself

What are you getting? TPS switch may be bad. 16
City 18
Combined 23
Hwy

No 2 is on the rear bank, to get at it the intake plenim has to come off, if going there it pays to do all 3 coils while there. If one has gone the others are prbably near thear end as well, and it's labour intensive to have to do again.

i'd first make sure i ckecked all of the fluids and fuses ; blown bulbs...then if all thats fine i would disconnect the battery and then reconect it...that could reset it for you...if not go to your local auto parts store and they will put it on the computer for you usually free of charge.....your friend 00buck

SOUNDS LIKE A WIRE GROUNDING OUT SOMEWHERE,I WOULD CHECK WIRE HARNESS,ALSO ANOTHER CAUSE WOULD BE THE INJECTOR ITSELF,IF BOTH OK CHECK ECM.









TIM

PO304--is # 3 cylinder misfiring
PO174---is a lean O2 Sensor Code on bank 2,
from the misfire


So you find the cause, of the ignition misfire,and NO,
it is not spark plugs,wires and a long list of parts, that
never fail.

It is a bad ignition coil or igntion module,which ever applies.

Changing the plugs on the 04 MPV is a pain.

The front three plugs are easy to get to - just remove the black plastic cover over the engin block(3 screws) and they're right there (but deeply recessed in the block).

But you have to remove the manifold to get to the back three plugs. and this kinda sucks. you will need a new manifold gasket set also....... I hope this helps

that IS the problem. have it checked out by a repair shop. sounds like its misfiring, the first item to check is the COIL PACK.

Hello! I suspect a defective Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS)...Cost is around $40...See picture below...It is bolted to the throttle body and has a three wire connector...Wire colors are...Gray/White...Brown/White...And Orange...It can be tested if you have a voltmeter and a wee bit of experience using one...Let me know if you do and I'll send the procedure...


Guru...................saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

THE IMMOBILIZER CUTS OFF POWER WHEN THE KEY IS NOT INSERTED BECAUSE THE KEY HAS A CHIP. GO TO YOUR LOCAL CAR STEREO SHOP AND TELL THEM YOU NEED THE BYPASS BOX. COMMENT BACK AND LET ME KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT.

This sounds like it needs the plugwires or coilboots replaced, the ignition system has sparkplug wires or it has coilpacks on each cylinder, it sounds like they or misfirimg, you can have the computer scanned for codes to find out what cylinder is misfiring, many autopart stores will scan the computer for free,

the location for the fuel filter on this 2004 mpv is located inside the gas tank, this filter is attached to fuelpump asm, this filter is good as long as the life of the fuelpump, i only replace them when i'm replacing the pump. theres no need to replace the filter, hope this is helpful, heres a picture to show you the filter, as you see the filter is connected to fuelpump module housing, if you think you need to replace it then you will need to remove the module from top of the tank and to do this you drop the tank or go through acces hole in rear seat floor. good luck, hope this is helpful.