1999 Dodge Dakota - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and fix the text and add some spaces. Question moved to model category. This is usually cause by air locks. When you have air in the system, the heater core doesn't fill with coolant and doesn't circulate. If you add coolant and you are on a driveway with the front of the vehicle down a few degrees, the heater core doesn't fill. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29872074-vehicle_cooling_system_no_heat Another outside possibility is that the impeller on the water pump is worn out. Other ideas here and videos https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Dodge+Dakota+no+heat ..

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Diagrams at the top of this page with all the lines also separate. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1999-dodge-dakota/service_brakes/lines_hoses_front.html https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Dodge+Dakota.+Brake+line+diagram ..

The cheapest, easiest fix is to drive with the steering wheel in the up position and sit on a cushion. There must be a break in one of the wires from the switches, or it might just be a loose connector under there.

This is a very common problem when you do major work. First thing is go to your sensor make sure you did not break or pinch one of the wire, if ok I am sure you check the fuses but do not let them fool you lookin at them is not always the best way use a test light I have run into this let me know if this does not fix it I will research more for you Good Luck

For new readers: I have a 99 Dakota Sport V8 Manual Transmission, the inner fuse panel is on the left side of the dash that faces the driver's door. The fuse is the largest box fuse on the bottom left and the fuse is an E27. Mine cost $30 more or less (can't remember exact amount). I replaced it but my signals still did not function at all yet Emergency Flashers & wipers were fine. I went with a new multi-function unit (the signal/wiper arm, flasher button piece attached to the steering wheel). Easy removal BUT you must have a T20 Star bit that has a long extension for 2 screws under the steering column. You won't get the bottom cover off if you dont. So, the unit is what failed and now signals work. I could not find one less expensive than $45 at Auto Zone (incl tax) that was new. It seems that the 3 functions have separate wiring inside the unit which is why one can burn out or disconnect and not the other two. It's usually due to the steering wheel moving up and down or an electric overload. That's what the tech said anyway. I suppose you can take the unit apart and try fixing it with new wiring but that's a whole different fix and I'm no mechanic or electrician. Just a girl fixing her truck. Good Luck Y'all.

Hello
u will find a lot of wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams help books and stuff like this at reliable-store.com
they can help u instantly... im a frequent buyer there since Im a mechanic so take help from there

Yes you can, but no me.

The injector pulse is in millivolts. A test light will not catch the pulse. You need a noid light.

hello u'd need a proper manual for this in my opinion like there are plenty of dealers and online shops that deal in those.. you can get some free at reliab le-store and it;s actually really illustrative

You may have an inoperative switch

Sounds like a bad brake booster.. It's the large can behind the master cylinder. The fact you have a hard pedal with engine off is the key here.

I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here Dodge Dakota

There is an ABS wheel speed sensor located in the rear differential. If this fails it affects the ABS and may cause your speedometer to read erroneously at speeds under 25-30 mph. There is also a VSS located in automatic transmission housing. Manual trans vehicles don't have this. They use engine rpm to determine speed as there is supposedly no slippage in the manual drive train.

The most common cause of high idle is an intake air leak. It will cause a lean condition to the O2 sensors and the PCM's solution is to increase the fuel mix resulting in faster idle. It can also cause a Check Engine Light if the idle remains too high for too long. Do a smoke test or soapy water test around the intake manifold and throttle body. If you detect any leaks, seal them and try again.

Usually if you know which cylinder, you check spark--fuel--compression on that cylinder. You could do cylinder balance test, engine idling, kill each cylinder, one at a time. If you kill a cylinder that has no effect on rpms, that cylinder is dead for some reason, spark--fuel--compression? I usually kill spark and do it quickly.

You need to have the ABS system scanned for fault codes, do not guess.

Mode door actuator bad > electric motor that switches mode door from floor to vents to defrost ! Google mode door actuator for dodge Dakota ! Mite be a video on youtube showing how to fix it !

Get a DVM, get wiring schematics of the truck and start testing each circuit until you find the circuit(s) that are bad. Or take it to the dealer or trusted mechanic and have them put a breakout box on the system to find the problem.

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