Top 10 1997 Dodge Intrepid Questions & Answers

Flush out your transmission with the correct type fluid, Mopar ATF+4, and correct filter. Disconnect Negative cable, to reset computer, for at least 24 hours. Check grounding straps for PCM, ensure they are tight and clean.
This method worked on my 2003 Intrepid SE, 3.5L, Police Pkg car.
Good Luck!!

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio INFO FROM http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_7.htm
hope this helps.....good luck!

I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!

I was told to change my Transmission Control Module,located on the transmission . You can get it new for under $200 but, I was advised to get it from a junk yard it's alot cheaper and its easier. I hope this helps

You must have a leak somewhere. The whinning noise is coming from the pump. They make that noise when they are out of fluid.

Are you seeing any puddles or oil drops on the ground under your car?

A power steering resevoir is't very large so it won't take very long or a very big leak to run it out of fluid.

There aren't that many parts to a power steering system either.

The leak would most likely becoming from a hose, a connection or from the power steering component cylinder or box.

This a dificult and time consuming project. Suggest you purchase you a repair manual which gives you diagrams and detailed instructions for this type of repair. Difficult to explain procudure in writing.

Make sure it has a full radiator, remove the thermostat. Test the vehicle, if it overheats the water pump is bad if it doesn't then you need a new thermostat. It will be perfectly fine to drive it for a short period without a thermostat in the summer. But you will want it replaced as soon as possible.

If the following is not enough then maybe try Alldata.com which generally has more information, but it will cost: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Chrysler Concorde, New Yorker, LHS Dodge Intrepid Eagle Vision

1. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums.
2. Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and bearing assembly.
3. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and wave washer. Discard the old cotter pin.
4. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly retainer nut and washer. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly from the spindle.
5. Remove the automatic adjuster spring from the adjuster lever.
6. Rotate the automatic adjuster starwheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.
7. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever. Disconnect parking brake cable one side at a time.
8. Remove the both lower brake shoe to anchor springs.
9. Remove the 2 brake shoe hold-down springs from the brake shoes.
10. Remove the brake shoes, upper shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever from the backing plate as an assembly.
11. Separate the brake shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism.
12. Remove the brake shoe automatic adjuster lever from the leading brake shoe. To install:
    
13. Thoroughly clean and dry the backing plate. To prepare the backing plate, lubricate the bosses, anchor pin and parking brake actuating lever pivot surface lightly with lithium based grease.
14. Remove, clean and dry all parts still on the old shoes. Lubricate the starwheel shaft threads with anti-seize lubricant.
15. Assemble both brake shoes, the top shoe to shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever before mounting on vehicle. Make sure the ends of the automatic adjusters are positioned above the extruded pins in the webbing of the brake shoes prior to installation.
16. Install the brake shoe assembly onto the brake support plate and install the hold-down springs.
17. Install the lower anchor springs and reconnect the parking brake cable to the park brake lever of the trailing brake shoe.
18. Rotate the serrated adjuster nut to remove the free-play from the adjuster assembly.
19. Install the automatic adjuster lever spring on the lead brake shoe assembly and the automatic adjuster lever.
20. Install the rear hub and bearing assembly. Install washer and retainer nut and torque to 124 ft. lbs. (168 Nm).
21. Install the wave washer, nut retainer and a new cotter pin onto the spindle. Install dust cap.
22. Adjust brake shoes so not to interfere with brake drum installation. Install the rear brake drum. NOTE: After installing the brake drums, pump the brake pedal several times to partially adjust the brake shoes. To verify proper operation of the self-adjusting parking brake, be sure that both rear brakes are not dragging when the parking brake pedal is released.
    
23. Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
24. Road test the vehicle. The automatic adjusters will continue brake adjustment during the road test of the vehicle.

Now that you've eliminated the thermostat, it could be a number of other things. Don't drive the car too far until you've fixed the overheating problem - overheating can destroy an engine.

That split ribbed hose you see is plastic wire loom - it carries and protects electrical wires, and is not the cause of overheating.

1. Low coolant level
2. Radiator hose split/cracked, causing low coolant level.
3. Head Gasket - leaking, causing low coolant level
4. Thermostat - stuck closed (you eliminated this possibility)
5. Radiator cap - worn/damaged
6. Radiator fins - obstructed by debris/cardboard
7. Water Pump belt - missing/broken
8. Heater Core - leaking, causing low coolant level
9. Intake Manifold Gasket - leaking, worn, damaged
10. Radiator Fan Relay - faulty
11. Radiator Fan Blade - broken, missing
12. Radiator Fan Sensor/Switch - faulty
13. Water Pump - leaking, causing low coolant level
14. Radiator Fan Motor - faulty

My primary suspects would be Rad Fan Relay (#10), and
Rad Fan Switch (#12).

Replace the fuse housing! This should fix the problem, or it may also be a ground issue. I would check for a ground fault first.
Good luck.