20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Intrepid - Page 6 Questions & Answers

bad vehicle speed sensor,located near transmission output shaft

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Your fuel filter is just ahead of right rear wheel along frame rail.

I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!

First thing to do is if you have NEVER owned that car for the life of the car, is go to autozone or someplace like that and have them scan it for codes, they do that for free. Then if there are codes present, the light should be on. If the light is not on, either the bulb is out OR someone cut the wires to it. IF you cannot find any cut wires (and this could be interesting to locate but if it was cut, it should be easy) Then you can turn your attention to the computer that controls that light.

If your engine cuts out under acceleration is a good sign. Under full throttle your engine is using alot of fuel and if the filter is plugged up then it will not let enough get to the engine.

On Chrysler products, the first thing you check is the ASD relay to see if it is working. It powers several things including the coil and injectors on some models.No spark can be caused by not having power to the coil, or signals from the cam and crank sensors.

Probably the high beam relay.

Map Sensor or Crank Sensor. If you have a code reader the map sensor should throw a code, the crank sensor most often will not. Both will cause the car to start, idle to around 1,000 R's and then die.

check wires running through harness inside the crease of the drivers door by the hinges for breaks

there should be a spot either on the fuel rail or fuel line where you can unscrew a cap and screw on a gauge so when you turn the key on and the fuel pump kicks on you can see how much pressure its putting out find out what the pressure is supposed to be an see if yours is weak.

If the Eagle is 2 wheel drive try to determine if it has a 41te or 42te transmission. These can be interchanged by a knowledgeable mechanic assuming your vehicle is compatible. Many times these transmissions are referred to as a 604 or 606 respectively. The weak link in the 604 is it's output shaft splines.

what you mean brakes or engine.

sounds like fuel pump, or cam sensor.

the culprit could be wet sparkplugs or temporary shortage in one of the components, but after drying should return back to normal functions, providing theres no permanent electrical damage, but should check where breach is coming from before washing csr again to avoid future problems.

ON DODGES THEY UASLLY DO SO REPLACE IT AGAIN BUT SPARAY IT WITH CLEAR COAT PAINT AND IT WILL LAST LONGER

Now that you've eliminated the thermostat, it could be a number of other things. Don't drive the car too far until you've fixed the overheating problem - overheating can destroy an engine.

That split ribbed hose you see is plastic wire loom - it carries and protects electrical wires, and is not the cause of overheating.

1. Low coolant level
2. Radiator hose split/cracked, causing low coolant level.
3. Head Gasket - leaking, causing low coolant level
4. Thermostat - stuck closed (you eliminated this possibility)
5. Radiator cap - worn/damaged
6. Radiator fins - obstructed by debris/cardboard
7. Water Pump belt - missing/broken
8. Heater Core - leaking, causing low coolant level
9. Intake Manifold Gasket - leaking, worn, damaged
10. Radiator Fan Relay - faulty
11. Radiator Fan Blade - broken, missing
12. Radiator Fan Sensor/Switch - faulty
13. Water Pump - leaking, causing low coolant level
14. Radiator Fan Motor - faulty

My primary suspects would be Rad Fan Relay (#10), and
Rad Fan Switch (#12).

No. You have to drop the oil pan to get to it. You may have to remove some of the exhaust to drop the oil pan. There is likely cross members, that will be in the way too. It can be done, but you gotta take your time. Get a good oil pan gasket for reinstall and have a torque wrench and manual to show the pattern that must be used or you'll have big oil leaks. You may end up having leaks anyways.