1993 Dodge Spirit - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have you checked your fluid level?

check terminals on the ECM the circuit is when the coolant temp sensor ( not the gauge sender) reaches a predetermined setting , power is supplied to the ECM which in turn activates the fan relay and switches on the fan there are normally 2 fuses in the circuit the gauge sender is normally a single wire unit and the sensor unit has 4 wires to it

Your wiper linkage bushing might be loose or worn-out. The weight of the snow prevents the main link to transfer the motion to the wiper link because the bushings are worn-out.

Hey maybe its time to replace the sensor?

The horns are up front just behind the grill. Usually had to find.

check the reverse switch as it's most likely failed. It'll be on the side of your transmission with several wires sticking out of it

BBB Industries TSB Wiring Diagrams They show a Engine starter Relay ( left shock housing ) >

Check your spark plugs, are they soaked with gas? Check for external gas leak, under the vehicle, under the hood, fuel lines, injector/s, fuel pressure regulator where applicable. Check your evap system. Have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the plugs. How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes?

The blower resistor could be where others have told you, I have no experience of your model of car, but blower resistors get hot and it is usually the practice to bury the resistor in the cool air intake of the heater unit to help prevent them overheating. Because it isn't unusual for heater motors to seize which effectively stops the cooling air flow and increases the amount of current flow there is a possibility of a fire caused by the resistor glowing like an electric fire. Usually there is a thermal fuse fitted in close proximity to the resistor which will stop the current flow if things get too hot. I hope this helps.

Under passenger side dash. My info says you have to remove glove-box assembly to get at it. Even then, you will have to remove part of blower housing to get at the blower motor. Heck, I even gave you the link for step by step removal, if the link worked. Autozone.com has info for removal, if your sure the blower motor is faulty.

Under passenger side of dash. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280251ac3

hit it with some PB blaster soak it good and loosen it up...be good as new

if the engine turns over then check for spark at the plugs. if this is good then check for fuel pressure with a gage. if the pressure is not right the car won`t start. you could have a plugged fuel filter.

I have similar problem in that my rad cooling fan won't run when hooked up to temp sending unit. Sending unit works okay, displaying what seems like proper temps on inside gauge, rising & falling with engine temp. However, my fan does NOT turn on when wire unplugged from sending unit. Tested fan motor with 12v applied directly & it runs fine, so motor okay. Haynes manual identified a faulty cooling fan relay (in a situation with your symptoms), which is mounted on the drivers side fender of the engine compartment with 1 other on a support bracket (2 others on same bracket if you have ABS), facing forward toward headlight (NOT nearby ones that are parallel to fender, which has 3 relays on a support bracket). This should work in your case, but didn't in mine. Several of these close-together relays have the same # on them, so you could swap 2, to see if this is your problem, since normally 2 or 3 relays wouldn't fail at same time. To be sure, I bought a new generic relay of proper # from local auto parts store -- about $10-12 I think -- and installed it in the right place but fan still didn't work. Swapped the 2 relays next to each other (there are only 2 on my forward-facing bracket), both with same #, and still no go. I'm TOTALLY STUMPED on mine, but yours should work with a functioning relay of proper #. Let me know how it goes. If anyone has suggestions for my related problem, I'm all ears!

you are expecting the wrong temperature unit to control the fan. The temperature sender unit controls the temperature gauge and the temperature sensor unit controls the fan operation. It allows current to go to the ECM and when a pre set temperature is reached the ECM activates a relay and the fan starts . Two completely different units to do two different jobs so if it is doing what you say then there is a possibility that the wires are crossed or shorted.

It may be a blown fuse, but I'd imagine other gauges on your instrument panel would not be functioning either. If that isn't the case, then I'd find the tank under the car and wiggle the wires a bit. You could have a loose or corroded connection and sometimes this will resolve the problem. If not, the float could be stuck inside the tank and in need of replacing. It's a trial and error process at best.

Battery might be dead?

The heater is NOT actuated by a fuse, the fan is. ]But if the fan blows, the electrical part is OK, then it must be the heater door that switches from the cold air to the hot one, or 2) the heater core is not receiving enough hot coolant.

you need to check the integrity (electrical continuity) of the wiring going to the relay from the column switch. another thing is a permisive switch located on the transmissions, that prevents starting the engione in gear. That could be the culprit. (some times it sticks with gum).

If you expect you old reliable to maintain perfect tune-up status after TWO years, you are expecting too much, it could be many small things. Do a complete inspection before changing so many parts.