1993 Dodge Intrepid - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

We need to know . On what first.

computer problem

yyyeeeeessss

This type of parasitic draw can be tricky to find.Hopefully this will help you. I am a master tech and the electronics specialist where I work.This is how i would approach this problem. Turn the car and ignition off.put your meter on current setting 10amps DC..and .put it in SERIES with negative ground cable. polarity of the meter leads does not really matter like with measuring voltage.The meter should read about 200ma of current with the car shut off.,once the interior lights go out...before that it will show a couple amps..Then leave the meter hooked up and about 20 minutes later,the body control module puts the car in "sleep" mode and current should be around 2ma.. (.002amps) This is normal PCM current drain. If the current is higher than this,pull fuses out one at a time until the drain goes away.this is the problem damaged circuit. Most meters have an auto shutoff function for the display to save battery life. if the meter shuts off before the 20 minutes is up,,just turn it back on ,DO NOT disconnect the meter as the 20 minutes will have to start over. Testing diodes is simple. with the meter on diode check,there should be a .7 volt drop one way and infinite the other. A shorted diode will read 0 volt drop in both direction because it is shorted. An open diode will read open in both directions.

depending on where you live you could pay on an average around 150, you cld save your money and do it your self. take a punch and hammer-knock out old ones- clean hole good-put a thin layer of rtv around edge of new plug and hammer it back in with a socket - dont hammer to hard- and stop when it gets flush with block. this way it would only cost you about two hours and cost of plugs

Failed Transaxle Seeing as how you have been using it for months,you have no chance of diagnosing anything Once you drive & keep going into fail safe-- your done Pull it & rebuild it Never fixed it's self That is pure nonsense & you know it

Yes I belive you are correct

Do you have power going to the head light? Check your local pull apart they should be the cheapest

Sorry ---time to completely rebuilt the transaxleit has worn out & failed

REPLACE SENDING UNIT

would love to help, but not enough information, no background details and "is there a question here?"

more times than not it's because you have a busted motor mount

If it doesn't smell like sweet then you most likely got a bad tank of gas. Just to be safe keep an eye on your engine temp. and coolant levels.

I use and I'd recommend you register for free at www.autozone.com Once registered you'll have access to repair and shop manuals for virtually any car or truck. All the data, specs and diagrams you need now or may need in the future will be a couple of mouse clicks away.

if your passing down past reverse,, then it may jump a little, when shifting into any gear you should have the brake applied, if its an abnormal Jump, your idle could be set to high which is making the car want to go right away, adjust that as needed,

I had a similar problem several years ago with my 1993 Dodge intrepid. None of the instruments on the dash would work. When this would happen the transmission would not shift past second gear. My heater blower was Not running all the time. What I found was the wiring harness to the ignition switch did not have enough slack in it. This was causing the ignition switch plug to randomly lose contact with the ignition switch. The first thing you need to do is remove the steering column covers. Put the tilt steering all the way up. Look under the steering column cover. There are 2 phillips head screws and 3 recessed T-10 torx tip screws that hold the 2 halves of the cover together and to the steering column. Remove all 5 screws. The handle used to tilt the steering wheel also has to be removed. You will need a T-30 torx tip to remove it. Now carefully remove the bottom half of the cover. The ignition switch wiring harness is under the steering column. I just reached in under the column and gently pulled on the harness until it had a little slack when I left go. Make sure the ignition switch plug is plugged in all the way. You might even want to unplug it and plug it back in several times just in case a slight film of corrosion has accumulated on any of the electrical terminals. This will help clean it off. You could also look inside the plug to make sure none of the terminals are bent or pushed part way out the back. I hope this solves your problem. Mine has not reoccurred in the 8 years since I did this.

Check switch blower fan for the heater and air conditioner; shortcut

Have you checked the fuse/relay?

here ya go......

What it sounds like is that the fan blades off of the blower cage have broken off and that would explain the sounds you are hearing. The really bad news is that it also sounds like one of them has penetrated the heater core and caused a leak and that is why you are smelling antifreeze. Of the two the blower motor is the easier to replace, but the good thing is that they are next to one another, so when you are replacing one the other is right there. One thing that you can try as a quick fix for the heater core is to get some aluminum radiator/heater core sealer. There are several good ones on the market, K&W makes a really good one and it is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the heater core. But since you are goning to be fixing the fan blower motor, you might want to splurge and just get a heater core as well. I hope that you have found this information useful as that is my goal.