20 Most Recent 1991 Dodge Spirit - Page 3 Questions & Answers

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152802682ab Check your alternator.Here's a link.

Sounds like you need a new shift cable. Remove the shift cable from the linkage on the transmission. If the transmission linkage moves freely back into the park position and the shift lever inside the car still will not move back into park than the cable is bad. If the transmission shift linkage will not move back into park with the cable removed than the transmission will need to be pulled apart to service the shift rod. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Sorry I am not aware of any problem that is applicable to all models. I have 35 years in the field.

It's not much or a picture but that's all I had. Hope this helps.

you talk about 1991 Dodge Spirit or 94 Plymouth Duster 3.0 L Engine

On a 1991 Dodge Spirit, with a 2.5L 4 cylinder its on the drivers side inner panel and is the second relay.Also be sure to disconnect the battery for 15 min and reconnect to reset the switch. Here is a wiring diagram as well for the fuel system

to tell you the truth, it could be a broken timing belt that causes this. if the timing belt breaks, it will not turn the crank or cam, causing the distributor not to turn. check it out! you can do it.

I have a 93 and had the same problem. It is your 'Lock Cylinder'. To replace it, you will have to take off the steering wheel. if you have an airbag equipped spirit, remove that first after disconnecting the battery and waiting 15+ minutes. on the right side there will be a spring loaded mechanism you need to push down th a small tool. make sure your keys are ut and its in the off position. the cylinder should pop right out. get a new lock cylinder at an auto parts store. price varies, from 15 to 80 bux. beware and test the new mechnaism a lot if you can before you pop the new cylinder in. I put a new one in and it got stuck on run. it is a nightmare to take out when in run. The new one pops in with the spring loaded mechanism fitting into the hole. wiggle the steering wheel if it doesnt set all the way down at first. Replace steering wheel and airbag. test from drivers side.

SOUND LIKE WEEK DEAD BATTERY OR BATTERY CABLES IS WORN OR CORRODDED.CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 12.6 VOLTS. ALSO MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR IS CHARGING BATTERY.WITH ENGINE IDLING CHECK ALTERNATOR OUT PUT AT BATTERY SHOULD 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND CHECK FOR LOOSE SLIPPING DAMAGE DRIVE BELT.CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR LOOSE CONNECTIONS AND DAMAGE.

Turn the key to run then off, back to run, then off, then to run and leave it on. The check engine light will be on and will then go off and then on again according to the codes the engine controler happens to have in it. If the check engine light was on when you stopped the car, then there is at least one code in the controler. The light will blink the codes like this.
Cycle the key three times and leave on on the third time. light on for about 3-4 seconds then goes out for about 2 seconds and then blinks one time and goes out for 3 seconds this is for the no.1. Then the light blinks 3 times and goes out for about 3-4 seconds. You have the code 13. You could have a whole string of codes in the controler memory. It could be something like this. key cycled 3 times, light on for 3-4 seconds, then blinks 1 time, pause, 3 times, longer pause, 2 times ,pause 4 times, longer pause, then 5 times, pause 5 times the goes out.
This is code ; 13,24, 55. code 55 isn't really a code. It just tells you it's the end of any codes the controller has.
If you disconnect the battery and hook it back, you will have code 13 which simply mean 'battery disconnect'. It will errace it's self after several starts if it's not disconnected again. If you cycle the key and you get 55, this means there are no codes recorded at this time.
You will allways get 55 when checking for codes wheather there are fault codes or not. The light on for a few second before the codes start flashing is only a bulb check. Some codes like 13 will not turn the check engine on, but but will leave a code for diagnostic purposes only. If you have the check engine light on and accellerate and the light begains to blink, then the controller is telling you that you have an engine miss and are running the chance of burning out you're catalatic converter if you continue driving. Sometimes its advised to disconnect the battery after you have recorded the codes.
This will erase all codes that are present but were generated by conditions that aren't pertanent to the present condition. and then the codes that come back are the real ones to address.
This link: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html
Contains the entire list of Chrysler Engine Error Codes.

usually if thats the only way it will start that means you have no fuel to engine. first off, check the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. next get under car at fuel tank and put your hand on tank while someone turns ignition to on. if the pump works. then you can feel it vibrate. a fuel pump only turns on a few seconds, to pressurize the fuel line. then when running its on all the time. check fuse and relay first before doing anything else. have a good one !!

Jack up the car and remove the right rear wheel. Check to see if the brake is frozen on (drum brake - you should be able to pull off the drum; disk brake, you should be able to slide a piece of stiff paper between the caliper and rotor). If the brake is locked on, first see if the parking brake cable is jammed in its housing at the wheel.

If it is not the brake, your wheel bearing may be seized up. You'll have to pull it apart and replace it, and you may also have to replace the axle (if the axle is bent, galled, cracked or discolored, it's a risk for breakage, which is at least as dangerous as a tire blowout).