20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 6 Questions & Answers

YOU HAVE TO REMOVE RIGHT SIGNAL BULB FROM INSIDE THE FENDER NEXT TO FRONT WHEEL.

Which ones?

2000 Chevrolet Corvette V8-5.7L VIN G

Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE (LEFT OR RIGHT)
TOOLS REQUIRED
^ J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gauge
^ J 37088-A Tool Set, Fuel Line Quick Connect Separator
CAUTION: Refer to the Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
CAUTION: Refer to Vehicle Lifting Caution in Service Precautions.
3. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
5. Clean all of the fuel connections and the surrounding areas before disconnecting the fuel pipes in order to avoid possible contamination of the
fuel system.
6. Drain the fuel tanks. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining Procedure.
7. Remove the fuel tank shield.
8. Mark or identify each fuel pipe in order to aid in installing the pipes in their original positions.
9. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender.
10. Cap all of the fuel pipes.
11. Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
12. Remove the fuel tank strap.
13. Support the fuel tank.
14. Remove the fuel sender attaching bolts. Remove previously installed "break-away head" service bolts using a 5/16 inch open end wrench.
15. Discard the fuel sender attaching bolts.
16. Remove the float arm retaining clip and the float arm (left fuel sender only).
17. Carefully remove the fuel sender with the gasket.
18. Discard the fuel sender gasket.
19. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (RIGHT)
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
2. Fold the long strainer in half over itself and hold the strainer in this position.
3. Pinch both strainers upward toward each other.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
4. Insert the float arm through the fuel tank opening followed by the folded strainers.
5. Release the strainers once the strainers are in the fuel tank. The strainers will spring back to their full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
7. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (2) with the fuel sender cover mark (1).
8. Align the fuel sender cover mark (1) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
9. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
10. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
11. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank) and the fuel feed rear crossover pipe (2) (left tank to jet pump).
12. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
13. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
14. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
14.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
15. Install the fuel tank shield (1).
16. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (2).
17. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (3).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
18. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Refill the fuel system.
21. Install the fuel filler cap.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
23. Inspect for leaks.
23.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
23.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
23.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
23.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
24. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
25. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (LEFT)
IMPORTANT: Always install a new fuel pump strainer before reinstalling the left fuel sender assembly. A fuel pump strainer that has been
exposed to fuel will not unfold in the fuel tank and may block full travel of the float arm.
1. Install a new fuel pump strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push on the outer edge of the strainer ferrule until the strainer
is fully seated.
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
2. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
3. Fold the strainer three times so that the amount of space occupied by the strainer is about equivalent to the diameter of the fuel sender reservoir.
3.1. Fold the long side of the strainer over (1 over 2).
3.2. Fold 3 over 4 and hold the strainer in the folded position.
4. Insert the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening.
5. Release the strainer once the strainer is in the fuel tank. The strainer will spring back to its full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long side of the strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
7. Insert the float and the float arm into the fuel tank opening.
8. Install the float arm retaining clip.
9. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (1) with the fuel sender cover mark (2).
10. Align the fuel sender cover mark (2) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
11. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
12. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
13. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank), the fuel return rear pipe (2), and the fuel feed rear pipe (3).
14. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
15. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
16. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
16.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
17. Install the fuel tank shield (3).
18. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (1).
19. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (2).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
20. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Refill the fuel system.
23. Install the fuel filler cap.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.
25. Inspect for leaks.
25.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
25.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
25.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
25.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
26. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
27. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.

1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove the left hand side lower close-out panel.
   
3. Remove the hoses from the AIR pump.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the AIR pump.
5. Remove the AIR pump mounting bolts from the bracket.
6. Remove the AIR pump.

The hazards and signal lights are not on the same relay.

There is an electronic flasher module for your signals. It'll be under the dash near the steering column

Sounds like it,s time for a new battery. Check the cable connections first then get a jump from some one. If the car continues to run then dies as soon as the jumpers are removed you need to check your charging system Put a volt meter across the two posst of the batery while it is not reading it should read a minimum of 12 1/2 volts or more and around 13 1/3 -14 volts running. If the voltage is the latter you need a new battery. And yes they "can" go that quickly!

I would irately call the dealer and have him send a mechanic out to fix your car where it sits. If he has to tow it in, have them use a car hauler. It would not be unreasonable to expect a decent loaner and they can add it to the recall charge to the company.

Hi,

You need to take it to the Dealer to check the code for ABS. It's very rare to change the entire ABS unit.There are a few bulletins out but I really need to know what the code/s are.

Usually what i have seen it to be an electrical problem.These cars are bad about ground issues, and this could be part of it. Most likely you have a hub going bad or something related to the ABS system. There could also be a bad plug connection or a shorting / frayed wire.

Your car is equipped with speed sensors inside the wheel bearing hub assemblies and this could be the problem.


Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

sounds like you need to replace the relay for that headlight door, also make sure all the connectors are clean and tight, check for water intrusion

Oil pressure 'sending unit' is bad. It needs to be replaced.

iits prob a valve cover gasket leaking and running down

it is probably the oil sending unit if you have access to a direct reading oil pressure gauge put it on and if oil pressure is reading normal replace sender

The clarification is right. At least 600. The car has a lot of electrical components on it. The colder it gets the more you need those amps.

Jack the car up. The filter is under it next to the oil plug. Careful not to bend the car. It has certain spots it can be lifted.

i would be temted to say its a worn out linkage
between shifter and transm.

It sounds like an ABS sensor or some other sensor going out. IF it's the main computer for the traction/handling system that's big $$$$$ like $1300+ I think.
This problem frequently starts out as occasional, goes to frequent, and then full time.  It usually relates to the ABS/TC assembly on the frame in front of the engine. 
It is made of two parts, the EBTCM (the electronic part) wich is bolted to the mechanical half, the BPMV (Brake pressure modulating valve.) Sometimes the electronic grounds for this assembly get corroded or loose. Bad connectors for the ABS speed sensors at each wheel hub can also go bad.

EBTCM = Electronic Brake Traction Control Module
Good luck and hope this helps.

you need to have vehicle running the dipstick tube is usually red pull then check level put in what you need

If the trans is not cooled buy the new rad because of blockage or not circulating the trans fluid correrctly it would burn up the clutches .Sounds like you might have a defect in your new rad or clogged lines

look back by the flywall but before using any additive to seal a leak use a dye first to find out where the exact location of the leak is because sometime it looks like it is the seal but it is the backend of the valve cover gasket