The problem is the crankshaft sensor for sure. It is mounted behind the crankshaft pulley which is pretty difficult to get off as you need a special puller. A shop should charge about 1.5 hours for this job. It is a very common problem.
Using the usual criss cross pattern from the middle bolts to the outter ones torque the bolts in two steps. First take them to 37 ft lbs. Then tighten them an additional 120 degrees. either with a degree wheel on your ratchet or looking down on the bolt figure a 360 degree circle and turn the ratchet or breaker bar 120 degrees clockwise.
I have used cardboard or thick copy paper to make my own degree wheel (square, round doesn't matter) and a plastic compass like we used in school. Make a small hole in the middle to fit over your socket. Then mark the degrees using the compass. hold or tape the "wheel" in place and turn it the 120 degrees. Hope this helps.
If your problem is pressure when you release the gas cap it could be one of several problems. The first two are easy. A fuel pressure sensor on top of the charcoal canister under the computer and air filter on thew drivers side engine compartment. The next is the purge valve located on the front top of the engine under the cover. A hard line runs from the purge valve to the sensor on the charcoal canister.
The third is the most difficult. It is the fuel tank pressure sensor on top of the fuel tank. I believe you will need to drop or at least lower the fuel tank. Not an easy task. I have heard some models have an access plate in the trunk under the mat but mine did not. All are under $50.00 ea. and readily available at your local parts store or online. It is very important you get this fixed asap as it will build enough pressure to find a weak spot in the tank and rupture it. That happened to me.
While it is not ideal, you can temporarily loosen the gas cap to where it is just sitting in the filler tube when driving until you can fix it. Then have your check engine light reset.
I have a question regarding a 1998 Buick Le Sabre Ltd. It appears that when it's hot outside the horn sounds and doesn't turn off until we bang on the steering wheel to unstick what's seemingly stuck. Without making this a major ordeal, can't I just pull the fuse to the horn? If so, which fuse is it that I need to pull? The owner's manual isn't very clear, I'm a bit lost.
I live in FL and of course it's wicked hot in the summer here, the horn goes off all of the time lately. It's a royal pain! One of these days I'm not going to be within ear shot to the car, I don't want to be a pain to my neighboprs, etc. We already tell friends that the car's possessed.
I'd appreciate any info for this quick fix.
The car runs fine, aside from the horn.
Then I unscrewed the bottom panel of the radio. Unscrew the brass screws holding in the cassette player portion of the radio. Now flip the cassette player over to see your tape, etc. When I pressed the eject button, I noticed a little motor with a worm gear would move a a gear which moved several other gears until it eventually moved a black gear which has a little post that moves the metal arm which moves back when pushing in a tape and moves forward when ejecting a tape. But I would get a clicking sound which seemed to be due to one gear trying to move a stuck gear.
I forgot the exact details of how I managed to get the tape out, but when I did get it out I noticed when I turned on the radio, it would act like it was trying to play a tape. But when it found out it couldn't, it would try to eject but would fail once again with the gear clicking sound. I think I tried moving the black post on the black gear that moves the arm that pushes the tape out. Eventually I got to the point where the arm was pushed forward like it should be when a tape is ejected. At that point I was able to insert and eject a tape without any problems.