20 Most Recent 1990 Nissan 300ZX - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The aged engine needs to be replaced. Look for an aftermarket used and reconditioned engine. Have a station lift your out and replace it with a good engine. Could cost $1000 or more.

This requires a car/truck lift. Doing this on the ground is dangerous. Generally two people are needed to remove the transmission and when it is out, the interior is very messy and complicated. Better having it removed and replaced with an after market or refurbished transmission.

The eradicator has what is called a PIT , a small thumb twisting nut on the bottom of the housing. With a pair of pliers, turn it until water flows freely. Open the cap of course to allow air to enter the chamber. Leave it PC valve open and flush until clear water comes out. Close the PC, after all water is emptied out and fill accordingly, remember antifrees solution for protection and rust prevention.

have the belt checked, may be slipping

That flywheel should be 23lbs, weigh yours and do the calculation. The only one that I can find is 23lbs off of the Rock Auto Catalog.

This is what I would do if I pulled the flywheel off my vehicle: 1) Contact Nissan (or someone that has a new one). Have them measure the thickness of it. If they already have the specs on a new one, then they save time by not having to measure. Most of the time I've called dealerships for specs, they've patched me into the parts department and we've dealt directly with them...good guys that always could use a good laugh - so be nice! :-) They deal with a lot during a day, and we're just asking for information, most of the time... 2) Measure the thickness of the one you have in your hand. I use a cool tool I got from Advance Auto to measure the inner radius and outer diameters...also can be used to measure width! If the OLD one is less than 60%-75% of the thickness of the new one, I suggest you replace it. 60%-75% is a decent threshold of a replacement for a flywheel. Anything less than 60% is asking for trouble, in my opinion - and if you've got the flywheel off, there's no use in putting a flywheel back on that's sitting at 75% of thickness - because it will be at 60% before you know it. 60% is the bare minimum I would deal with, as far as a flywheel goes. If you're at 85%, that's practically good for another few YEARS of basic driving/starting...

Look at the ignition system. Is there a spark at the plugs? Do NOT check the #1 plug to verify spark. Then work your way back to the ICM (ignition control module) Check fuses.

if there is 'F' apearing on d dashboard. most probably its d FTC problem. go on com.diognosis n check d fault..

The bendex may have gone. It can be repaired is the damage is less or replaced if otherwise. The locking has nothing to do with it.

do you have spark? have you checked any of your sensors like crank sensor or cam sensor you said you small fuel I would do a fuel pressure test, befor you put a fuel pump in. please let me know if this helped i could have you do few more tests if needed

stockam auto If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dennis_f849d3d6a68c6430

check for leaking injectors

white smoke is oil

Garyq1970 is right - white smoke usually indicates burning coolant. How full is your radiator? You should see coolant right up at the top of the fins inside when you remove the cap. Take a look and see if a) you are low, and b) if the coolant looks sludgy or contaminated, brown in color. If it's low, top it off and monitor it over a week's driving and see if you have to refill it again. If it's contaminated and brown, you have a problem.

Usually when you're burning off coolant, it's because of a torn head gasket allowing coolant into the cylinders. If it's not contaminated, that means the tear is between a water galley and the cylinder. If it's browish looking, then it's a tear between a water galley, an oil galley, and the cylinder, and the coolant and oil are mixing as well as being burned off. Either way, it's a very involved repair, as the top of the engine has to be removed to fix the problem. This involves removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds, and the entire timing belt system (which, given the in-depth job that the timing belt is, you might as well replace it, its tensioner, and the water pump and thermostat as well, to save yourself the labor later on). It's not a job for the faint of heart or wallet.

You may not be looking at such a repair but if you can monitor the coolant for a week or so and reply afterward and let me know, I'll take it along from there (just send me a request on here).