20 Most Recent 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Your coolant is low. Fill the reservoir to the max line with the proper coolant for your vehicle with a 50/50 mix.

look under hood on passenger side look for fuse and look under dash knee bolster area on driver side.

You can use CNC-602A Injector Cleaner & Tester to do the test. And then you can find out the problem and solve it.

If your trying to adjust your alternator belt, you have to loosen all the lockdown bolts before you can adjust the alternator. When you get the right tension on the belt, tighten the lockdown bolts.

Try changing crankshaft sensor. You will not get a code readout for this problem. Had same problem on Mercedes ml320 and now works fine

Since 1996 it is not a good idea to put water on a motorwith all the wiring & electrical & electronics on boardAll you can do is check fuses & all wiring for water intrusionYou put it in there ,so you have to get it out

1 and 4 fire on the same time ,but if gasket gone then this would cause problems take the head off and stop messing around

Change the alternator the built in regulator is faulty ,do it now before you kill the computer

You used a code to replace a partCodes only indicate a system with a faultThat system then has to be component testedI assume you did no testing

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

DON'T THROW PARTS AT IT, GET IT DIAGOSED BY A TRAINED TECH IN ELECTONIC ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEMS.

Hello

The engine and the automatic transmission in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems.

camshaft wont cause it to not start just will cause it to run like **** take the crank sencer out and take it to the auto store and have checked out

Could be a wiring problem or a leak in the hose to the sensor.Does the reading change if you increase the RPM ?

Hi there:

I suggest scanned the module in order to know if some fault code is stored there; additionally, check trans axle relays in good conditions, they are located in engine bay.I can guarantee you there are transmission related codes if it won't shift out of 2nd gear, this could be some solenoid code.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

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I have searched this forum for idle problems and some threads have similar problems and good recommendations associated with cleaning or replacing the IAC valve. But, I would like to test my IAC valve before spending $78 to replace it.My IAC valve was definitely dirty and sticking. After cleaning thoroughly it still has an idle problem when cold and in gear at a stop. It is idling around 760 out of gear and 560 when in gear and at a stop (unless it dies). The engine RPM was verified with a ProScan PC tool. One of the other threads indicated these are the correct idle speeds.Sometimes though it does not seem to hold the 560 RPM idle in gear and the engine starts misfiring. It might drop to around an idle of the mid-400's. This is even after the good cleaning.My daughter drives this car regularly and started complaining last week that when she put it in gear the car would die. Of course, it was about -9 deg F one morning it died and she could not get it started after it died. Kids these days don't know to press on the gas to help start or keep the car running. They expect the ECM to do all the work.So, I still have the question "is my IAC valve bad?". Before cleaning the IAC valve I connected the coil to a variable power supply to test movement of the valve. I could not see any movement in the valve while changing the voltage from 0-12 VDC. It was also initially set to about 1/16" open and I forced it close with my finger. After cleaning the valve I ran the same test and could not see the valve move either. I could physically move the valve to different positions with a needle-nose pliers, but the voltage changes never move the valve position. I really thought the valve was broken, but thought maybe I did just not understand the true operation of the valve so I installed it. When I started the car it idled up to about 1200 RPM and then started working down to the 760 RPM as it warmed up. I am think it is at least kind of working. Or is the ECM using something else changing the idle speed?Has anybody ever tried to test an IAC valve with a variable power supply?It definitely has a freewheeling diode in it, because it has to be connected in the right polarity to the power supply.Any feedback would be appreciated.Hate to say it but a 16yo IAC valve is probably ready for replacement. You also can't test those things with constant DC voltage, im surprised it even still works. It gets a PWM signal from the PCM.They aren't really supposed to be cleaned according to Ford, and those symptoms you mention are consistent with failure. Cleaning in my experience is a stop gap measure until it finally goes. I've had some luck by putting some oil on the shaft, can't hurt to try. I have one in my 95 that improved with cleaning and a few months later is starting to have occasional idle trouble.Another thing you can try is cleaning the throttle body butterfly. I use a spent toothbrush, try not to get cleaner in the side seals.Check rockauto (also look for a 5% discount code by searching) and you can probably get away under $50 aftermarket. The Motorcraft one is about 72 shipped after discount.I would change it, you don't want it crapping out in an intersection.