Had a vehicle awhile back that had that same problem , the crankshaft position sensor was bad . I know you probably don't have the test equipment I have at my disposal . I hooked up a lab scope to both crank sensor an cam sensor could see the signal dropping out . What size engine does yours have ? That year three engine's were available 3.5 , 3.9 ,5.3 L ! There are videos on your tube showing how to test crank sensors , cam sensors etc....
Its what is called the EVAP. system the code is for the vent solenoid .Gas vapor in a vacuum is drawn from the fuel tank when this vent is commanded to be open drawn into a canister filled charcoal and stored until the canister purge solenoid is commanded to open .
This happens when the engine speed is at a higher RPM level and is supposed to send the vapor to the engine to be burned instead of VOC'S going into the atmosphere .But its a crazy lie the last time I filled up more VOCS got into the atmosphere then a gas tank vent could do in 6 month or so .
You can try cleaning the filter in the vent solenoid it might work but the part is about 70 dollars its in the rear between the tank and the canister look for hoses .
System Description
The horn PCB relay is non replaceable ,soldered to the underhood fuse / relay box. . You would have to take the box a part to get at it . Is the air bag light lit on the instrument cluster ? Could have an open wire in the Clock spring , do you know what a clock spring is ? It is inside the upper part of the steering column , It allows the steering wheel to be turned full right to full left keeping the horn an all the buttons an air bag connected electrically.
When the horn button is pressed, ground is applied through the horn switch contacts and the horn relay control circuit to the coil side of the relay. The horn relay coil is then energized, causing the relay switch contacts to close applying voltage through the horn control circuit to the horns. For theft deterrent functions, the body control module (BCM) also controls the horn relay by applying ground to the relay control circuit to the relay.
Circuit/System Testing
With a test lamp connected to ground, probe each of the test points on the HORN fuse while activating the horns. The test lamp should illuminate at one or both of the fuse test points.
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If the test lamp does not illuminate at either test point, refer to the Horn Switch Test.
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If the test lamp illuminates, refer to the Horn Test.
Ignition OFF, disconnect the inline harness connector C275. Ignition ON, test for B+ between the horn relay control circuit terminal B and ground.
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If less than B+, test the control circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the underhood fuse block.
Momentarily connect a 3-A fused jumper wire between the control circuit terminal B and ground. The horns should work.
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If the horns do not work, replace the underhood fuse block.
If all circuits test normal, test or replace the horn switch
The PCB relay horn system consists of the following components:
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Horn switch
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Horn PCB relay
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Horn assembly
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Body control module (BCM)
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HORN fuse 15 A
How cars clock spring works
This should be a straight forward swap to a new line. Loosen fittings, remove clips, unscrew retainer on block and drain oil from old line to avoid messy spills and replace.
Video Chevy Astro Van Oil Cooler Lines Replacement - Should be a very similar procedure for your Impala.
625 665How to replace an oil cooler line
Find part information here:
Dorman Hose Engine Oil Cooler 625 665 ReadReviews onDorman
put the engine on tdc compression stroke and place the 2 rods of different lengths in position
one will be too short and one will be too long
once you have the rods in place they alternate in length
A circle is 360 degrees. If you moved the pointer on a clock from '12' through 360 degrees, the pointer would be back at 12 - having travelled 360 degrees in a complete circle.
Half a circle is 180 degrees - if you moved the clock pointer from '12' through 180 degrees it would point at '6'.
A 140 degree turn just means that you turn the bolt clockwise through 140 degrees. Put a small mark on the top of the bolt - at the 12 o'clock position then turn the bolt until the mark is at about where '5' would be on a clock face.
Mel, I am pretty sure D squib circuit pertains to the SRS/air bag system, with a good scanner the squib circuit can be diagnosed better, probably down to the faulty sensor/part.
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
I suggest trying the following: put window down using switch on driver's door. Then hold passenger switch in the down position for 5 seconds. Then put window up using switch on driver's door. Then hold passenger switch in the up position for 5 seconds. Then turn off car and pull key. Put key back in and turn on power. Then test rear window switches to see if they reset. It may be that the rear power window regulators/ switches have gone out for each door and need to be replaced. Also, check to make sure that power is being received at each switch. If no power, they can be tested by getting power independently to each one. If you are not a handy DIYer, getting them checked out by an experienced mechanic may be the best way to go.
