20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Impala - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Either under the dash or under the hood. In one of the two fuse boxes. I would look under the hood fuse box first.

Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Removal Procedure
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlock? electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.

Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key.
Disconnect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.

Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.

12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.

12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.

12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.

12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.

12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.

12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.

12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.

Installation Procedure
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.

1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.

1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.
Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key
Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 10 N?m (89 lb in).

Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

rate me fix ya cuz this is the fix 100%

Look lines going to engine, gas regulator if is bad is leaking.

could be overfull remove excess to the full mark on the dipstick could be a problem power steering pump bypassing excessive oil back to the reservoir under pressure and heating and expanding the oil take it to an accredited power steering service center and have a pressure test done on the pump the humming noise indicates a valve problem leaking under pressure

i would tell ya what i found and how i fixed it for the sum of 15.00.

SECURITY would appear in MSG Center. It would come on and off with no rhymm or reason. There's a connection for your power seats under each seat. Remove back bolts that secure seat to frame and simply tilt seat forward to get at it.There's a clip that secures this connection to metal body. I scraped off paint and squeezed clip so it had better ground connection. Drill a hole through clip and body and insert sheet metal screw if you want over-kill. SECURITY MSG went away. There could be a bunch of other causes that aren't so simple; so try this 1st.

There are very complex electronics on your vehicle , you people have no ideal what all is involved in starting your vehicle .It's all computer controlled , the PCM - engine computer has to see electrical inputs from different thing's before it will energize the starter crank relay located in the under hood fuse box . Circuit Description Moving the ignition switch to the start position sends a 12 volt signal through the PCM (CRANK) fuse in the Junction Block - Left I/P to the PCM to notify the PCM that a crank status has been requested. 12 volts is fed through the ABS/PCM fuse in the Junction Block - Left I/P to the coil side of the CRANK RLY . The PCM grounds this circuit when all parameters are met for starting the engine. This closes the CRANK RLY allowing Battery Positive voltage through Fusible Link and through the switch side of the CRANK relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid. Ground is found through the engine block. The PCM has to see correct enable message from the theft- deterrent module an it also has to see a voltage signal through the transmission range sensor , this shows that the vehicle is in park or neutral . Video's on youtube testing relay's . VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base Jumping pin's 87 & 30 will crank the engine . 85 & 86 are the control side . VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis Starter Solenoid Does Not Click 2 Turn the ignition switch to the START position. Does the engine crank? YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections NO - Go to Step 3 3 Install a scan tool. With a scan tool, observe the Security Lamp State parameter in the BCM Security Data list. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. Does the scan tool display On? YES - Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle NO -- Go to Step 4 4 With a scan tool, observe the Starter Relay Command parameter in the PCM data list. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. Does the scan tool display Yes? YES - Go to Step 5 NO - Go to Step 13 5 With a scan tool, observe the Crank Request parameter in the PCM data list. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. Does the scan tool display Yes? YES - Go to Step 21 NO - Go to Step 6 There are very specific step's to diagnosing problems like this an if you don't follow them you may never find the problem . You don't need a expensive scan tool to fix it but having one would make it a whole lot easier .

Did you check for error codes (DTCs) using a scanner that will check the BCM codes? A GM dealer's scan tool would probably find the problem right away. The security light driver in the BCM could be faulty, although that probably won't throw a code.

Check the fuse

Normal running temp is around 200-210 (f). If you have a 180 thermostat in there it will cause it to run cooler as it is supposed to have a 195 stat in there. If you have a 195, it may be stuck partially open or the electric fan may be stuck on. If it runs hotter, then the fan isn't coming on or there is an obstruction to either air or coolant flow through the radiator, coolant is low or there is a problem inside the engine such as a cylinder head gasket. If it overheats but the temp seems normal, make sure that you have a 50/50 antifreeze mix. Antifreeze not only keeps it from freezing but also raises the boiling point.
If you have a specific question about any of this just ask and I'll explain that part better.

Lower left side on the back of the radiator ( closest to engine ) Remove the coolant pressure cap. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Place a drain pan under the drain ****. Open the radiator drain ****.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Need+to+no+where+mass+air+sensor+located+on+a+2002+cavalier+2.2+motor&biw=1363&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwidypiQ58LQAhXJ7iYKHevTAvsQsAQIHQ#tbm=isch&q=How+to+replace+blend+air+door%2C+in+05+Impala+on+passenger+side%3F Hope this helps and good luck with this project.

bottom by tank

Hopefully your trouble code will tell you which cylinder, like p0302, cylinder number 2, check fuel--spark--compression on that cylinder. If you get a p0300 code, means the computer thinks there is a misfire, but, can't identify which cylinder? How long since overall tune-up? Spark plugs and wires are great, as far as it goes.