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2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer - Page 3 Questions & Answers
My trailblazer revs up, but
check if the speed sensor melted again. Then you have a problem of figuring out where the short is.
You'll need a mechanic to help with that cuz the variables are a lot.
but double ck the wiring going into the speed sensor for fraying/broken wires., look in the connector to see if there is any gunk.
hope this helps a little.
Location of engine # of 04 trailblazer ext with 5.3 v8
On the right side of the engine boss right ahead of the cylinder head if I remember correctly its under the alternator or what ever accessory is in the upper front corner of the engine. Passenger side/Right side. Hope this helps. Thats for the serial number, block cating number is on the block boss back where the oil pump drive is, right where the transmission bolts to the cylinder block at the top.
I have 2004 trailblazer and the a/c only blows
Hard to say - not being very careful when replacing the battery can generate voltage spikes that can damage electronic equipment in the vehicle, or put certain processors in a locked up state. You can try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes and then reconnect it to see if the various systems reset themselves. If the problem persists, your HVAC control module may be damaged.
As far as the rear air is concerned, you first should check the wiring and connector on the switch - may not have been connected properly, the switch may have been damaged or a wire may have been cut.
In my 2004 Trailblazer a clicking noise starts
I should guess it to be the electric fuel pump, although I thought those sounds had been eliminated by the manufacturers long ago. Perhaps you could raise the car in the air and get underneath it and see ( or I should say "hear")
That sound from the fuel pump should not mean it is bad or is going bad.
God bless your efforts.
My 2004 chevy trailblazer is knocking
could be a big end or main bearing but there are a few simple checks that can be done first
1--have the oil pressure checked using a mechanical gauge
if there is a bad bearing there will be low pressure at idle
2 --check the exhaust for smoke under load
if there is a bad bearing , the escaping oil will overload the oil ring and produce smoke
( if smoke comes after idling at lights and on taking off that is valve stem seals)
3--- run the fault codes and check for knock sensor problems
the noise could be detonation under load from lean fuel mixture or incorrect timing
4---check the ignition timing
5-- run the engine when it is knocking and remove a plug wire and see if the knocking stops
bearings will stop knocking if there is no combustion to place load on the crankshaft
That will also indicate which big end you have to check if you have to pull the sump
Too far advanced will cause the pistons to slap the cylinder walls hard for too far advanced ignition
you statement that the noise goes after 40 indicates that it is not a bearing as the high the rpm the louder the noise
taking the foot off the pedal indicates detonation
lastly if all the checks prove good , you could always have the sump removed and check each big end and main individually for damage
sometimes a failing cam chain if fitted ( no motor identified) will knock as the chain hits the timing cover
Service engine light
There are internal valve timing parts that are not operating correctly. Take it to a dealer to find out whether your warranty will cover the repairs.
ABS light on
Get the trouble codes read. Otherwise you're totally in the dark about which wheel is causing the problem
Sunroof Opens Automatically
as a florida resident for over 30 yrs and a mechanic I'm Not a big fan of sunroofs I'm a convertible man. a sunroof can be a real problem and costly to repair. may I suggest pulling the fuse and not using the this feature as they are prone to leaking. this situation sounds dangerous and should be off line until a solution is found.
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