1997 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here's a link to your fuses. Repair Guides Circuit Protection Fuse Block And Fuses AutoZone com Here's one on your headlight. Repair Guides Lighting Headlights AutoZone com

I expect that the caliper is sticking. The rails get corroded or rusty and keep the caliper from returning to the rest position. sometimes the caliper pins are corroded and caust the same situation. Usually this seems to occur on one side and the result is that the pads on that side wear more quickly due to the caliper not retracting, thus leaving the pads touching the rotor and wearing quicker. Suggest caliper removal and scrape and wirebrush the rails, replace the caliper pins. I use a high temperature synthetic brake grease on the rails and the caliper pins for lubrication and protectionl.

Disconnect cable at throttle butterfly undo the retainer bolt on firewall and pedal leaver slide old cable and new one in the same position.

Been having a problem with the dome lights on a 99 chevy blazer. Still can't figure out what the problem is. There is a dome light overide button located under the dimmer wheel. When I push the overide button in the dome light goes off, but when I open any of the doors the dome light will not come on. When the overide button is out the dome light stays on all the time and will not turn off even though every door is closed. I checked all the pushbuttons and everything tests good. Has anyone had this problem and know how to fix it?

Replace the ignition switch.

I would check to ensure you're ignition switch is operating properly prior to going any further

We can not know the answer, nor can you BUT I would suspect, if you drop the fuel tank, you will find a rotted fuel hose or fuel pump o-ring leak to fix

You have to give codes for us to figure out what the problrm is...

In many instances one of the solenoids for the lockup converter or other wise will short out inside the transmission and since they are usually direct power you will get a surge back through the line and it can blow fuses. I have had them blow the fuse to the stereo which is direct wired to maintain memory for the stations and clock. Trace the lockup wire, disconnect it, replace all blown fuses, check for all locations and then try starting the motor. If it runs then you need to have someone service the trans and change the solenoid that is shorted. This will not be able to be done at a quick lube shop, it must be a transmission shop or automotive shop.

if only blows hot from defrost location only, then there is a vaccum leak from intake manifold to the selector switch. or the vaccum selector switch is defective. if it is a electric selector switch then the mode door is broken, common issue. when the truck if first started, is there a repetive clicking noise? if so then it would be the mode door being broken, warrenting having to remove the dash and recovering of the air conditioning refridgerent, or freon, r-12, or r-134a as this year is R-134a, draining coolant as heatercore needs removed, and removing the entire heating and airconditioning unit, located behind dash on passanger side, disasembling and replacing door. if clicking noise is pressent and time and money, and certified air conditioning mechanic not available, then finding the mode door actuator, or electric motor that turns the door, and unplugging it will cause the noise to stop, but forever have no airconditioning, as default location is defrost. if able to select from defrost to panel or floor location but heat only, then blend door is broke. i believe mode and blend door are same part number, but might not. also check for recalls and tsb's, or technical service bullitions, as might help fix it. recalls are free, and tsb's are only to help you diagnose the problem, and you would have to pay to have fixed or fix yourself, but having to evacuate and recharge air conditioning system and haveing to have the special tools to remove ac lines it may be a job best suited for a professional. GM UPFITTER Technical Bulletins GM RECALL CENTER I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3

have a load test done on the battery to check for internal failure. remove the battery earth wire and fit an amp meter in the line to see what amps are flowing when everything is switched off. It could be a faulty diode in the alternator, boot/ glove box light staying on, interior light on or a faulty relay or module./ As to the scanner not reading the ECM records , there are several different leads that are in use for different vehicles so make sure that the correct sequence is being used to get readings.

Did you progressively lose fan settings? (works on high but not medium or low?) The fan switch is mounted behind the fan knob and fails quite often.

Sounds like it could be the brake pad indicator. When the brake pads start to go bad there is a small mettle lip that makes a sound to warn you before they get too bad and fail.have them checked.

Yes

will not shift out ???!!! How about a road test at a trans shop !

check if you have gas and spark then we can start trying to get it started. could be one thing if no gas and another if no spark

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That's a lot of codes! Typically when I see a lot of codes I will clear them and then take the vehicle for a drive. What every code return after the test drive are the ones I start looking into. Codes can be generated in a couple of ways. Usually there is a problem with something the computer is looking at or controlling. when the computer sees this problem it turns on the check engine light and stores a code. The other way is to have a code set by accident. For example the ignition key is on while you are checking or testing some components. One may get unplugged to test. As soon as the computer sees the open circuit it flags a code for that system. From my experience a single code is the most common. A few codes all related to each other is possible and also fairly common. several codes with no relation is not common at all. clear the codes, test drive, focus on the code(s) that return. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Time for a rebuild

Go to your fuse box and it will be written on the box which fuse runs the cigarette lighter. You may have to check your owners manual to find the fuse box. You can also look it up online.