1997 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is probably a safety interlock with the brake pedal so in order to move from park the ignition must be switched on and the footbrake applied. I suggest you read the section in the vehicle handbook and if there is such an interlock and it isn't working check the brake pedal switch function and adjustment first.

Anti-theft system ,replaced computer . needs programming ! Dealer .

How about to the switch , is there battery power ? Fuse #15 FWD 10amp. I/P fuse panel . BCM - body control module light's the switch indicators 2hi, 4hi,4low . Check fuse #6 10amp I/P fuse panel . DTC 002 The transfer case encoder motor is an assembly which houses four separate channels. These channels are used to indicate to the transfer case shift control module the present gear position of the transfer case or if the transfer case is in transition between gears. The encoder motor assembly consists of an electronically conductive inner ground ring in contact with a three legged wiper arm. Each leg's length is such that it makes contact with the conductive regions of the four channels. When any leg of the wiper arm is making contact with the conductive area of any channel, the encoder provides a path to ground to the inner ground ring. During electronic shifting, the transfer case shift control module monitors the transfer case encoder circuit for the proper operating sequence. If at any time during a shift, the encoder changes from one position to any position other than the next possible position, an error counter in the transfer case shift control module increments by four. After the counter reaches 32, the transfer case shift control module set a DTC 2, a permanent "encoder fault," and reverts to a 2HI to 4LO or a 4LO to 2HI shift pattern only. To guard against a transient, random encoder fault due to vibration, dirt, electrical noise, etc., the fault counter reduces by one each time the transfer case shift control module detects a valid encoder value. The encoder must intermittently fail 25 percent of the time for the transfer case shift control module to consider it faulty and store DTC 2. Test Description The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table. This step measures the voltage between the transfer case encoder circuit channels P, A, B, and C to ground. This step tests the suspect circuit(s) for an open, short to power, or short to ground. This step tests the encoder signal ground circuit for an open or high resistance. DTC 2 -- Encoder Fault Step Action Value(s) Yes No Schematic Reference: Transfer Case Control Schematics 1 Important: Check the transfer case shift control module for DTCs. The transfer case shift control module is not a class 2 device. DTCs are displayed on the transfer case shift control switch. Use the following four steps to obtain DTCs. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds. Connect PIN 13 on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground. The DLC is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes. Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Transfer Case? -- YES - Go to Step 2 NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check 2 Disconnect the connector at the encoder motor. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Measure the voltage between the transfer case encoder circuit channels P, A, B, and C to ground. Does the voltage measure near the specified value? 4.8-5.1 V YES - Go to Step 4 NO --Go to Step 3 3 Test the suspect circuit for an open, short to power, or short to ground. Refer to General Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? -- YES - Go to Step 8 NO - Go to Step 7 4 Turn the ignition switch OFF. Test the encoder signal ground circuit for an open or high resistance. Refer to General Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? -- YES - Go to Step 8 NO - Go to Step 5 5 With a DMM at the transfer case module connector probe the encoder sign ground pin and ensure a good ground path through the module. Did the DMM indicate a good ground path? -- YES - Go to Step 6 NO - Go to Step 7 6 Replace the transfer case encoder motor. Refer to Motor/Encoder Replacement . YES - Did you complete the replacement? -- NO - Go to Step 8 -- 7 Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement . YES - Did you complete the replacement? -- NO - Go to Step 8 -- 8 Clear all DTCs from memory. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Clearing . Operate the vehicle while pressing each of the buttons on the transfer case shift control switch. Does the DTC reset? -- YES - Go to Step 2 NO - System OK

I 2nd the distributor cap. Even generic brands will short out very quickly, use AC Delco brand for that part.

Hey Anon, Yes, it could easily be the ground cable or the positive cable too... If the terminal shows any corrosion (either end) I would replace it after what you have experienced.. the corrosion will migrate inside the outer sheath covering the actual wire (you can't see it) and cause problems that are HARD to diagnose..

How many miles on the engine ? worn engine parts, cam an crank bearings .

How's the battery ? Cables an connections ? Sounds like main power supply problem , do the headlamps light when you turn them on ? Dome lights light when you open a door ? Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits ? Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? an how to read one ? Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Find a wiring diagram an test main B+ voltage supply to the ignition switch ,in an out at run an start positions ! If the key won't turn off with out pushing that hidden button you have a problem with power to the shift inter lock system . GM did have ignition switch problems on some year vehicle's !

first , take it to an accredited service center and have the fault properly diagnosed hanging items could be broken shocky mount , or some other suspension mount point check the tread wear on the front tires as they will give an indication if you need an alignment or have other problems with the suspension the mechanic may not be qualified to do the job as well

You MAY have a couple of problems here and I've experienced them all on my 2000, but first things first. Check your brake switch wiring harness next to the fender under the dash (where the wire is too short and may shortout). Make sure it's not burnt, or you'll be chasing this forever like I did. If it is, replace the pigtail up there. If that is ok, jiggle your hazzard light switch and see if they start working again. If they start working, replace your hazzard light switch. If it's not that, it's your multifunction switch. Your lower brake lights run through the multifunction switch. This same problem has affected many people, you're not alone.

If you have the spider fuel system, fuel pressure, key on engine off, 60--66 psi. After it starts it will run with less pressure. Are you using quality brand new fuel pumps? This fuel system is noted for problems, including the fuel poppets.

Maybe true, but your first priority should be to get that ignition switch looked at (three parts - key module, the cable from it to the electrical switch, and the electrical switch, and it's usually the electrical switch), then see what problems go away. If the compressor clutch won't engage (electrical problem), that could be related to your ignition switch problem.

I believe there is a fuse that controls just the tcc. There should be another for all other transmission functions.

time to take the seat out and inspect the track power by motor one side something on that stuck track broken or out of sync

Most overdrive problems are caused by wiring related electrical problems.

The power wire from the sending unit runs to the gauge. Since it is showing 3/4 all the time. It is a break in the wire or really high resistance. I would check resistance of the ground wire first. If it is good(less than 5.0 ohms), I would replace the power wire from the pump to the gauge. I assume the gauge goes to empty with the key off. If not the gauge is bad.

This can be as simple as a vacuum leak, bad check valve, or as bad as a faulty blend air door actuator.

check the grounds too the motors

bad master cylinder

BAD idea. Just get a new key from dealer. You must bring the title, your ID, and they should be able to make a key. Might cost $40 or so, but you won't have ruined a $200 steering column.

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Drain the fuel tank through the filler pipe.
3. Support the fuel tank.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Filler neck
   • Shield and tank straps
   • Fuel lines and vapor hose from pump and tank
   • Electrical connection from fuel pump
   • Fuel tank
   • Fuel pump/sending unit assembly by turning the locking ring (located on top of the fuel tank) counterclockwise using a spanner wrench
   • Fuel pump from the fuel lever sending device

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Fuel pump in tank with new seal around opening
   • Tank and connect fuel lines and vapor hose
   • Tank to the frame
     1. Torque to: 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
   • Shield
   • Fuel filler neck and clamp
   • Negative battery cable
2. Refill the tank.
3. Run the engine and check for leaks.

View of the in-tank fuel pump assembly.