20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

No spark at the coil replace all spark plug wire and coil wire but start with fuel pump first it wont start anyways without fuel id look into a new cap and rotar with the plug wires might get lucky and find a distributor at a wreckers for the same price as cap and rotar

Not adjustable on newer model vehicles

there is an adjustment on steering box also ujoint to box maybe bad? good luck

Gray. Here's a schematic.

Your transmission must be slipping in 2nd gear and 4th gear these pins are selective sizes and requires a special measuring tool to get proper size. If trans shifts fine from 1st to 3rd most likely the band anchor is broken. Drop the pan look at passenger side of transmission near dipstick entry point there is a open area if the band is way from the reverse drum then it is broken remove TCC solenoid this is up front and center of transmission then remove transmission place tail shaft down remove torque converter and front pump by prying in open area discussed early but moving the input shaft around you can remove the band for replacement and reassemble the same way with new gaskets DO NOT lift up on shaft it will de-spline the clutches and very tough to re align. Good luck.

you cant guess at the pressure in the system. and its not a good idea to bleed off any r134a. it is now known to be a powerful green house gas. so should be recovered. however its easy to see what the pressure is. there are low cost gages that come with some r134a kits. that will likely tell you the pressure is low. typically that's what causes the compressor to cycle. there is likely a leak somewhere .. the r134a molecule is very small and its hard to keep things from leaking. you can use soapy water around the crimped rubber hose ends and connectors. that's what usually leaks. there are two ports on the air conditioner .. a high pressure and a low pressure .. the low pressure port is what you add fluid into. its just a valve similar to a tire valve. if you were to push the valve open then refrigerant will vent just like a tire .. but don't ever do that with your finger. it will freeze. unfortunately you will also be venting oil that flows along with the fluid. that can damage your system. if you vent too much then your system will have to be put on a vacuum pump to start over. 1. check for leaks with soapy water. look for bubbles while the system is running. look for oily spots that might indicate a leak. 2. check the low pressure side for proper pressure. chances are it will be low indicating not enough r134a 3. repair whatever is leaking before refilling. use the gage to determine when properly filled. the system has a pressure switch that makes sure their is always enough pressure on the low pressure side. that's because if the pressure gets too low there is danger of sucking in air and that will damage the system. so if the pressure gets below a set value then it shuts off the compressor. the pressure builds back up and the compressor comes back on then again the pressure drops as the system builds up. that's why it cycles fast . there is not enough fluid to keep minimum pressure while operating. if you have too much r134a then typically it will work but will probably blow out a hose. adding fluid to a leaking system will only make it work until it leaks back out .. sometimes that can last a year or a day, depending on how bad the leak.

These bands are no adjustable by turning an adjuster there are adjusted by a measurement once fully applied and the apply pin come in different lengths.

WHY WOULD YOU BLEED YOUR a/c gas? usually the problem is trying to keep them charged..

The vacuum actuator should move by hand without vacuum applied. You should also be able to see it move if you have someone switch the transfer case into 4hi/lo from 2wd and then back again. There is a vacuum switch on top of the transfer case that locks vacuum once the encoder motor engages the transfer case to lock the front axle into position, and then releases the vacuum once the encoder switches back into 2wd mode allowing the front axle to decouple. If you aren't getting vacuum, first check your vacuum lines for leaks, then check for vacuum coming from the transfer case when it's in 2wd mode.

Should be in the fuel line under the truck between the gas tank and engine.

It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (example: P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. Find the missing ingredient for THAT cylinder only and you have the fix. For a Random or Multiple misfire code (P0300), the diagnosis is usually just as simple as a single - you just need to find the missing ingredient that affects ALL cylinders. By the way, to set the P0300 code, only 2 cylinders or more need to misfire. So let\'s start with Spark. I\'m going to assume you have a code reader. First, double check that you have a good battery & good battery connections with clean terminals. A not-so-good battery can sometimes start a car, but can cause misfires. Have your battery tested at Autozone (or similar). They can also check your charging system (alternator, etc.) while it is in the car. Next, check your distributor cap and rotor inside and out. Are there any signs of carbon tracking, arcing, burns? Check your coil wire, then check your spark plug wires for chaffing, missing insulation, burn marks. A sometimes quick problem finder is to have someone start the car while you watch under the hood in complete darkness. Sometimes you can see the little blue sparks jumping across terminals on distributors or jumping from plug wires to engine parts. And finally, remove one spark plug at a time (take a picture with your phone and label that picture for later) and lay it on tiop of the engine (away from the cylinder hole it came out of) and start the motor. Verify that all cylinders are producing spark at the tip of the spark plug. If you find a couple that dont spark, check the coil pack(s) associated with them. Swap the pack(s) to others and see if the problem moved - if so, replace the coil pack(s). During these steps, you either found the missing ingredient or verified the presence of the first ingredient (SPARK). Move on to Fuel. When you turn the key in the ignition to the "Run" or "On" position, you should hear a whine coming from the rear of the car for a couple of seconds then stop. Once you start the car, the whine should start up again and continue. This whine is the fuel pump priming (before start) and delivering fuel (after start) to your engine. No whine? Check all fuses, electrical connectors and relays associated with the fuel delivery system. Got whine? Next is Fuel pressure. Check your fuel pressure at your fuel rail(s) without, then with the engine running. Generally around 40psi (some vehicles are higher or slightly lower) is good. Finally, if you don\'t know how long your fuel filter has been in your car, you should replace it. They generally don\'t get clogged overnight, but sometimes a large chunk of gunk can come lioose and block the last tiny hole left in an old filter, so again, if you dont know how old it is, replace it - your engine will thank you. (they are cheap too!) Finally - . again, keep in mind we are trying to find a missing ingredient to 2 or more cylinders. You can check the fuel injectors now. Use an automotive stethoscope and listen to each injector while engine is running. They should all have a steady and rhythmic clicking sound if functioning properly. Like a fast clock. If you dont have a stethoscope, use a long handled screwdriver with one end on your ear and the other on the top of the injector. Remember, we are looking for 2 or more with a problem. By now you have exhausted the search for the missing ingredient - Fuel. Move on to timing. Timing in a multiple/random misfire is usually accompanied by other trouble codes. When diagnosing trouble codes, diagnose them in order they appear on the scanner. Eliminate the first one, then the next and so on. Many times, getting rid of the first one will clear up the ones that follow by themselves. Anyway, there are 2 sensors that are notorious for multiple/random misfires - the Camshaft Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. (some vehicles have more than one sensor for each! crazy engineers,) These sensors will usually be reported by trouble codes, but sometimes not. You can check them with a voltmeter though. Usually the center pin in the connector is the ground and one of the other 2 wires (pick the colored one if the other is black) is usually emitting a 12volt DC (or slightly more) signal.while the engine is running. Missing a good solid ground or missing good voltage? Check the wiring and connectors for loose pins, oil-swollen wires, chaffed/burnt/broken wires. Cant find the problem in the wiring? Then perform the checks for the last missing ingredient - Air, but keep your results about the sensors handy as you may want to get one at the auto parts store after all. Timing problems can also be caused by the timing belt/chain skipping a knurl on a sprocket, but it is usually rare and typically leads to a no start/no run symptom. Finally, we come to Air. The final missing ingredient. Air is cheap, but unfortunately, the lack of air (specifically, compressed air) can be nightmarishly expensive. Read on... The best first fix for Air is to replace your air filter and clean out your airbox. Vaccuum those dead bugs and small rocks and sticks and leaves out from below your filter. While you are there, verify that something hasn\'t crawled up into the passageway into the airbox and died causing a big blockage. Next is to check your Throttle Body/Air intake area. Carbon and yucky junk can foul up the throttle body and cause it to stick open (almost imperceptible to the eye) slightly. Use Throttle Body cleaner and spray all that gunky junk out of there. Open the throttle and spray all around inside there too. Bought a whole can of it - use it! There. Thats the cheap part. Oh, and stay away from the MAF - Mass AirFlow sensor. It takes a specialized cleaner for that and if it has a problem, it has plenry of sensory inputs to let the car know it needs help. For some reason, people want to replace it for no reason - Whatever - just stay away from it. Next is to do a compression test on all cylinders. If you have no or low pressure in a cylinder or multiple cylinders, pull out your wallet. No or low pressure in a cylinder means blown head gasket and/or bent, burnt, stuck, sticky, chipped, cracked, broken valve(s) either/or/and exhaust valve & intake valve. Any of these problems are crazy expensive to have a shop fix and crazy difficult and time consuming for the average shade tree mechanic to fix. The head gasket itself is relatively cheap - less than $100. Its getting it on that takes up the other $800-$1200 of a repair bill. Ouch. Same for the valve(s), only worse if the valve or valve pieces fall into the cylinder, as those can damage the engine block (cylinder walls) completely ruining an engine. So, pray it is just a dead rat that crawled up into your airbox! This concludes your search for the final ingredient - Air. Now, if you have good compression and you didnt have voltage on one of the outside pins of the connectors or those position sensors I mentioned, then get a new sensor (around $35-$65 each). As for the photos of your spark plugs - reference the handy spark plug picture guide below and compare it to your plugs. Plugs can tell you alot about how your engine is running. Always replace plugs with manufacturer recommended ones. Don\'t be a cheapskate here. Older copper core plugs only last about 30k miles. The new platinum, titanium, uranium, super duper ZX45000xxx whatever expensive ones last 100K+.miles. . Hope you found this information helpful. Sorry for the long length, but it saves us sending notes in Comments back and forth for days on end. I want you to get this thing running smoothly as fast as you can. Good luck!

I have a 1995 Chevy 1500 4.3 v6 trans bands need to be adjusted I have two out of the four gears. Reverse tends to slip but works. How do I adjust the bands. And what side are they on. I baught it as is.

faulty proportioning valve that runs off the mater cylinder

look for f/pump relay try to swap relay with the same one hope it helps

I would suggest that you put Monroe sense a track shocks on this truck. There is also an option for a spring assist load leveler shock for the rear that would give you a little firmer ride and help a lot when towing or loads. hope this helps...Chris