Top 20 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Questions & Answers

You have an electrical short to ground on that circuit , do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? How to read a wiring diagram , so you know which circuits to test ? What fuse ? number an amp

Check the RL switch an hazard switch

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In theory you should be worrying about all warning lights but that is sometimes impractical when it becomes necessary to allow things to develop in order to find out what might be going wrong and wait until a decisive problem appears - often the expected problem never does develop.

I can't blame you for not wanting to scrap your car. I don't wish to insult you but you sound like a gifted amateur mechanic. The trouble with that is you missed out on learning the sort of core skills such as knowing how and why things work and how to puzzle things through to figure out what has gone wrong when things don't work. Electronics and computers have defeated many professional mechanics even though they often have access to the sort of test equipment denied to amateur mechanics. Because you probably can't check things through I guess you are spending frustrating time going around and around the same circle and you need to break that circle in order to make progress. Changing components hoping to strike it lucky needs a lot of luck to be successful and it can be expensive. Checking the sensors, the wiring, the supply and grounds in order to isolate the fault needs a systematic approach, a circuit diagram, a multimeter and some experience. Now is your chance to learn. The alternative is to bring in outside labour... Purely as a matter of interest, your car probably has an immobiliser that perhaps is in a bad mood.

Radiator is model specific. Yes you can get a used one

remove ecm then clean all plugs then reinstall tighter. works every time..

Standard transmission? If so, suspect a clutch issue. The tranny will most likely have to be removed to determine what has failed. Worn out clutch disk.... damaged pressure plate...... defective throw out bearing to name a few

If the timing is off a compression test won't help. The valves are opening to soon or closing to late. The test would be inaccurate. Recheck your timing.

Yes it does and the negative goes to ground.

Engine cranks over three times an stops ? starter or battery cables . does it crank over slow ? Save yourself some money an take it to a ASE certified repair facility !

Blown bulb.

Often there are not any broken parts when an engine is ran low on oil.. The engine never really makes it to far out of oil before it welds the pistons to the side walls seizing the engine tight. Every now and then a rod will break because at hiway speed the engine went empty the piston seized but the crank and rod did not thus pulling it with such force to snap it in half then producing sometimes a hole in the engine block, hood, oil pan where ever it decides to go. And this is about it Crank not often cam not often. Hope this helps

you most likely have a fuel supply or pressure problem 1, a shorted injector, (this caused all the other injectors to stop working or work very inefficiently) 2, the cam sensor (the ECM uses this as a reference in timing the injectors in conjunction with the ICM) 3, the lack of fuel pressure to them (all the many things that can cause this condition) 4, a bad ignition control module ( the computer uses the signals from ICM for a reference to time the injectors as it monitors and changes the ignition timing) 5, a bad crankshaft position sensor ( the ICM is using this to set the ignition timing and to send the reference signal to the ECM)

Since both ends of each vacuum line is important, it is imperative that you connect the correct line to the correct ports. A Chilton's manual for your vehicle will contain a vacuum diagram. Generally in today's cars these look a lot like someone threw a plate of spagetti on a picture of the engine; but with patience and not getting frustrated, you should find exactly where those disconnected lines should go. More than once I personally have had to remove all the vacuum lines and start from the beginning to get them all back in place. This is one reason your mechanic gets 'the big bucks'.. Good luck.

Heated rear window?

The mechanic who did the work may have gotten coolant on the drive belts or not sufficiently adjusted the belt tension . I'd replace the belt especially if the sides of the belt are shiny.

You have to have a thermostat in the system. Have a compression test done to check for head gasket or cracked head/s. Check the flow rate of the radiator ( blocked cores) check the condition of the cooling fins on the radiator. Check the radiator cap. Check if the fan is working when hot.. If you have a viscous fan hub on the fan then replace it . run the fault codes to check for air/fuel problems . Check for load and speed conditions as high speed when fully loaded will cause your problem . Check that it is actually engaging over drive and not over reving the engine.

The correct practice when doing head work is to remove any build up at that base of the holes and to run a thread tap down to ensure that the thread is clean all the way to the bottom. Blow out the holes with compressed air. In you case leave the head off and screw in each bolt all the way by hand and measure the distance between the head of the bolt and the block surface . IT should be much smaller than the width of the head by say 1/4". If it is then the bolts will allow enough compression of any sort of gasket used . A point of interest here is that this engine uses a torque setting until all the bolts are set and then the final torque is obtained by angular setting of the head of the stud/bolt. Use the correct tensioning sequence as this is vital to set the head properly..