20 Most Recent 1993 Mitsubishi Expo 4 Door - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Try CarPros, www.2carpros.com. You didn't post the model and year so I can't give you a direct link to their site. They have a section under info that shows timing belt and serpentine belt diagrams.

I presume you mean the clutch interlock switch on the pedal assembly. There is no neutral safety switch for a manual transmission. The interlock switch requires the clutch to be pressed when starting.

The switch has two 12mm (or 14mm?) nuts to adjust the position of the switch. There's a wiring harness connector so the switch and short cable can be removed.

SD

Replace brake light switch. It's mounted just above brake pedal under dash. Small plastic switch with a couple of wires coming from it.. easy fix

The problem could be a bad throttle position sensor or a bad idle air control valve.I would remove them and test them for proper operation .These test s should be done by your local service station because every car has a different procedure for testing these sensors.Any of the sensors on your car can be tested but like I stated they all have different procedures.

Godfrey, this is what you do. The light will keep coming back on until it is scaned. Go to Autozone and get it checked. They do this for free, so it won't cost you anything my friend. The light is on because your computer detected a problem. They will tell you at Autozone what the problem is ans what parts you will need. If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact us. I am here to help in anyway that I can. Thank you very much for choosing FixYa.

your fuel pump is probly getting weak

YOU don't... Take it to a pro..

squirt them with a oil can with engine oil in it

The typical master is located near the clutch pedal, be it inside or on the firewall. The slave is located on the bell housing or transmission case attached to it. The fluid loss source should be easy to find knowing this.
On some vehicles, it is possible to rebuild either for little money (wear parts would be in a kit), but buying them new is a safer bet since the rebuild should be accompanied by some work on the cylinder itself since these are subject to get corroded (I don't know anyone who actually changes the hydraulic fluid), and it is normally hygroscopic and can absorb water to cause corrosion in the system. 
I don't know what the cost is for your Expo but there might be factory rebuilds available if the list price new is high enough to make it worthwhile for someone to rebuild them. 'Remanufactured' master and slave cylinders are generally done well with the cylinder walls cleaned up by gently boring them and then fitting them with oversized pistons.    
If the fluid is that copious, you'd better make sure that there are no ruptured hoses or failed metallic lines since even blown seals shouldn't cause more than just leakage.