20 Most Recent 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Ask a dealer where to order one from.

the fuel lines may be leaking back into the gastank try to turn the key to the on but dont start the car. leave in the on position for 5-7 seconds do this a few times and then try to crank it. if it cranks you may have a bad fuel pump and or clogged fuel filter. change fuel filter first because its the cheapest. hope this helps.

it should be near the brake master cylinder

The sensor is a large round cylinder with a flat panel on one side.It should be in the intake hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body.

on the pads/shoes should be coating of anti squeal. It comes usually with new sets. Make sure that the hardware is flat so it won't rub on the rotor. If rubbing it will be missing the paint.

how many miles are on it?

autoshutoff relay may be bad..

check the bulbs if still good replace the brack light switch,which is located under dash on brake pedal

check fuses.

Hi there:HERE could find some generic guide.Hope helps.

Its the ignition live wire! they are nearly always yellow but please check your diagram. you will need to connect it to live.

here ya go

the thermostat is on the rear of the cylinder head above the gear box and is connected with the upper radiator hose. Drain the radiator coolant by loosing on the low part of the radiator the plastic butterfly drain plug, and let the coolant in an empty bowl. Then by using a 12mm socket loose the bolts on the thermostat flange and remove it.When the thermostat housing removed you will see the old thermostat,pull it out and clean the old gasket Renew the thermostat and use a new gasket,put the flange back on and tight it, Fit the radiator hose and tight the jubilee clip. Then loose the 12mm bleeding bolt which is on the thermostat housing,start filling the radiator with a new coolant until the air comes out of the bleeder and close it. then start the engine and let it in idle with radiator without the cap. When temperature raised to some warm point put the radiator cap and leave it idle till fan starts.Then switch engine off and let it cool down and check the radiator coolant level and the expansion tank fill it to maximum level.

I don't think it has it's own separate fuse, but will share the fuse of another system. Check all fuses.This failure of the pump however is most likely not a fuse issue, but a simple failure of the pump in 99 percent of failures. Check power to the pump with a multimeter and someone in the car operating the washers. If power is present, then simply replace the pump. Be careful not to split any rubber sealing washers when re-assembling. If stiff to insert, then use a little rubber grease or spit to allow easy insertion.

In all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire dash from the car.

check the fuses