2000 Mitsubishi Montero - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Where is the expansion valve on that vehicle located And the orfice to

I believe you need to turn the key to on or push in the clutch pedal Or brake if auto to release the safety lock.and be able to push the release button on gear lever

There are 2 plugs in the transfer case. They have a square indention in the plugs. Ther will be one dor draining, it will be located on the bottom. The fill plug should be up about 4 or 5 inches up. The square in the plug will be for using a ratchet, 3/8" drive. It snaps right in. Remove the fill plug ONLY. Use a funnel or a transfer case filler pump. Use whatever you can make work. You will know it is full when it runs out of the plug, or you can check as you fill by sticking your finger in the hole. When it reaches the hole, it is full.

A/T Temp Light, that is it warning you that your trans is overheating. temp sensor is bad, your transmission cooler is bad, I would have it fixed. don't want to have to put a new tranny in there.

code p0400 refers to exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system--flow malfunction===causes--hoseleak/blockage, basic setting not carried out (if applicable)--wiring---EGR valve--EGR solenoid---ECM As the EGR unit is susceptepable to corrosion. Check it out or replace it

try spraying some armor all where wheel meets the column covers

the engine doesn't like the extra stress of the air con unit being run _ there is no way of fixing this _ unless you get a full engine overhaul or a secondhand engine and installed _ the engine is old and the extra pressure on it with the aircon it just cant handle it

Code 401 (P0401) indicates improper flow in the EGR. This type is vacuum operated. There is a good chance the vacuum line is leaking. Check the vacuum line ( a black rubber hose ) for dried areas, cracks or holes and that it is connected to the steel tube coming from the EGR. The bad areas are usually toward the engine and cannot be seen without removing the hose. Your hands will get a lot of black soot like stuff on them. Hose is 50 cents. See the image of Montero EGR.

Have a look at the thermostat.
If it's blocked shut, there won't be the circulation through the rad.
You may need to invest in some 'radweld' type treatment too.
Good luck with that.
Don't forget to rate, thanks ;)

Sounds like a hydralic lifter issue. These lifters operate the cylinder valves and run off oil pressure. When the engine is cold and the oil is thick worn lifters tend to rattle. When the engine warms up, everything expands and the lifters stop rattling. There is no easy cure for this except replacing the lifters. Sorry....

Pajeros have a air operated solenoid to disengage/engage the front hubs and centre diff lock. the solenoids themselves can stick if aged. to replace them is about $200 each (two or more of them). I found thata bit of WD40/ CRC soaking inside the airhoses and solenoides and enagge/disengage action of the hubs frees it up again. Do this while stationery in neutral and motor running. The solenoids are located inside the engine bay just behind the drivers side headlight. They will have some black rubber air tubes in/out of them. When you engage/disengage you should hear a little whirring and slight clunk and the hub locks/unlocks. If very aged, you may need to move the car forward/backward for the hub locking mechanisim to find its opening. Once disengaged, the orange light should go out. The aftermarket workshop manual by Max Ellery fully describes this process and is about $30 ON eBAY.

The pajero has a limp mode for when there is an issue with the 4x4 system. The ECU apparently limits the vehicles capabilities until the problem is fixed. By turning the car off and on again you are reseting the fail-safe until it again triggers. The fault may be that a part of the drive train, secondary transfer case or auto locking hubs is not working correctly. For my Pajero, the auto hubs were not disengaging. This was later found to be caused by sticking air solendoids. Each solenoids cost was about $200 and there are two for the hubs. I was able to free them up by soaking the solenoids in CRC/ WD40 and a bit inside the air tubes as well plus repeatedly engaging and disengaging the 4x4 lever to activate the hubs. The auto hubs may not be the issue in your case but its worth a try.

you should remove the wire that's holding them together. just be careful not to break them for they are fragile. afterwards you can pull them through their heads. I hope this helps

Sounds like one of the injectors are defective by being stuck open and leaking large amounts of fuel into the engine cylinder(s).I've also in some cases experienced the fuel pressure regulator that has got a hole in the diaphragm and pulls fuel though the vacuum line or vacuum source.Thank you for your questions

before you spend too much money...try this.
On the inside of the keyless remotes, there are rubber buttons, those rubbers buttons are brushed with metal of some sort so that it reacts with the motherboard, when the remotes get older this metal wears off...so try this, it worked for me...
I superglued foil paper to the back of the button (the parts that touches the motherboard when pressed) and replaced the batteries... it worked like a charm, I used an awl and a hammer to make perfectly round piece of foil and just glued it onto the back of the button... i'd try this first before spending any real money.

I need to change the headlight on the left side on my Mitsubishi montero sport 2000 can you help me

my 2000 4w drive mitsubishi io 2w drive light is flashing while in 2w drive

Most I have seen have "flywheel side" printed on the inner surface. If it doesn't then the longer portion of the center "spline" goes back towards the transmission

Si los niveles estan correctos, entoenbces podria ser una falla en el SENSOR.