2005 GMC Envoy - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

DTC P0740 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Enable Solenoid Control Circuit Circuit Description The torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid valve is an electrical device that is used with the torque converter clutch pulse width modulation (TCC PWM) solenoid valve in order to control TCC apply and release. The TCC solenoid valve attaches to the transmission case assembly extending into the pump cover. The TCC solenoid valve receives ignition voltage through the ignition 0 voltage circuit. The powertrain control module (PCM) controls the solenoid by providing the ground path on the TCC solenoid valve control circuit. The PCM monitors the throttle position sensor voltage, the vehicle speed, and other inputs in order to determine when to energize the TCC solenoid valve. When the PCM detects a continuous open, short to ground or short to power in the TCC solenoid valve circuit, then DTC P0740 sets. DTC P0740 is a type B DTC. Check it out on youtube.

Probably too much unregulated power from the jump box. Get your digital multimeter and test the voltage off car and jump it to the multimeter. I live in the Great White North (Canada) and a trickle charger and a block heater are essential. I just had my block heater on for 4 days as the temperature was -15'C or - 23' with wind chill. They are only 125 watts.

scan the ECT if it reads wrong most time the 17 year old thermostat is bad. stuck open, missing or those crazy fail safe stat gone wild. ect 180 to 200f is normal . if not thermostat is first. I used and IR gun to measure the stat hosing to see if its bad, 1minutes work, most times the gauge never fails so we do 1simple test to prove that. scan the PCM is first. never seen a STaT good 17 year old, had one that told near all day to hit 180f>? when old that do nasty things, even stick closed and warp HEADS why risk that, attack the stat.

Check fuse #10 in the rear fuse panel, if it is OK, the problem could be a bad Driver's Door Module (DDM) or a break in the wiring harness that passes between the body and the door.

Crankshaft is unlikely. Could be water pump, probably the alternator is misalligned.

Have u located the fuse as well as the relay? Bad switch?

battery has a full charge and battery connections all good? There is no fuel shut-off. engine cranking, you have spark at the plugs and fuel injector pulse? At the fuel pump, gray wire is voltage, black wire is ground. Engine cranking, if you have good voltage and ground at the fuel pump but no fuel pump action, suspect the fuel pump.

get under it and look at the exhaust pipes

2005 GMC Xl doesn't appear to have an orifice tube where you'd expect to find it, -in its normal location.Suggestion: if the fluid looks good inside the receiver/Dryer and the pressure is within range, send it.Otherwise you're probably looking at a failed compressor and a clogged core or condenser at this age of the vehicle.

Do NOT use it on road you will brake something Is it switches or leavers for your controls

Window fuse's and relay's may be up under driver or passenger side dash or behind glove box, under the hood and even under the seats, and finally on the ends of the dash. All passenger power windows and locks are controlled thru and get power from the master control switch on the drivers door.

Drivers door window gets used the most so it could be the motor, window switch, relay or fuse.
Could also be a broken wire in the rubber boot going from the door to the body. You will have to eliminate each till you find the culprit. Check that all switches return to neutral when released.
The motor and the relay are the most likely to cause this problem. Try swapping the relay with a working window relay. If it still doesn't work, remove the door panel and remove the window motor.
Turn the motor shaft in both directions by hand several turns. Then plug the motor in and see if the switch will now run the motor. Sometimes that's all it takes to get it working again. I have had to do this with brand new motors. If voltage is not present at the motor connector, either a bad switch or a broken wire exists. Make sure to check for voltage coming to that windows switch. Actually, GM use's a circuit breaker type relay for each window and one fuse for all the circuit breakers.

Try this....Open the door, turn the key to the ON position without starting the engine and everything that makes noise is off. Lean down placing your ears close to the bottom center of the door or at the speaker grill. Press the window switch UP and DOWN. Listen for the window motor. If heard the drive is damaged. If not heard, turn key off and locate and replace the relay with one of the other window relays. Check window again. If it works now, get a new relay. More often than not, removing the motor and turning it by hand will get it working good as new. I have had to do that with Brand New motors! So try it.If all has failed, with the door panel still off, check for voltage at the motor connector when pushing the window switch. No voltage means its the switch, especially if its a auto down or up switch.

Most cars these days have this designed into the window system. It's a safety issue and I'm afraid there may nothing you can do. If there is more window track below the bottom of the glass, look for stops bolted or riveted in the track. If so, you may be able to move them down. However, this is dependent upon the drive mechanism, which may also limit window travel.

Check the master window control panel on the driver's door. There is probably a lockout switch. It may have a window outline on one end and the same outline with an "X" over it on the other. Press the outline without the "X" and all your windows should work again. As silly as that sounds, a lot of people hit that switch without knowing it. Also, if that switch(lockout) is faulty, none of the windows will work. That happens A LOT!!

Hi Dave, if it's leaking from the VVT, upper left, next to power steering pump, replace it. Not uncommon for it to leak there, and would NOT be due to your oil change.

You can see physical location and the procedure how to replace purge valve solenoid in GMC Envoy on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9C8nR6iv7A Procedure: DTC P0496 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge If the EVAP purge valve does not seal properly, fuel vapors could enter the engine at an undesired timing causing drivability concerns. The control module tests for this by commanding the EVAP purge valve OFF closed and vent valve ON closed, sealing the system, and monitoring the FTP for an increase in vacuum. If the control module detects that Evap system vacuum increases above a calibrated value, DTC P0496 will be set. This could be a sign that your purge valve is intermittently failing so you might want to get it checked out before it turns into a bigger problem that affects the drivability of your truck. EVAP is located behind the throttle body, near the front of the engine... Fig. Front engine compartment view-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L engines (1) Throttle Body (2) Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (3) Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (4) Knock Sensor (KS) (5) Engine Block Heater (6) Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (7) Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (8) Generator The first step would be to simply clean the valve and see if that helps. The purge valve will be an inexpensive part (probably $20.00 or so) so I'd usually just replace it instead of trying to test it too thoroughly. I've found it can be a somewhat tough part to come by third party dealers (Napa, Autozone, etc.) So you might have to contact your local GMC dealership parts department to buy the part. The best thing to do would be to ask the person at the repair dept who sells you the part to copy the page with the replacement guidelines from the service manual. You usually won't have any trouble getting them to do this and then you'll have a good written copy to follow while you change the valve. The other option would be to have a local mechanic do the replacement for you. Hope it helps... P0496 code Purge Valve Test Replacement 2008 GMC Envoy

you need to have engine checked and possibly rebuilt or replaced, this not a quick easy fix.

Pull the rear hatch and test the motor, they have a fairly high failure rated.

ecc fuse ???? spell it out

I suggest you get one of those manuals people get nowadays to do it yourself.. My brother use it to repair my car and it's totally repaired now. he got it from. www.reliable-store.com

not sure if this is what you're looking for but hope it helps.. Important: The driver information center (DIC) will display the message See Manual - Tailgate anytime a learn is required except after the installation of a new regulator. When a module is not learned, or in a window fault state, only the window remains functional. 1.Activate the window up switch using the key cylinder or overhead console switch and maintain switch activation for 2 seconds after the window has stalled in the fully closed position. WARNING Important: The window may be in any position to start the re-learn, but the up operation must be performed first. 2.Activate the window down switch and maintain switch activation for 2 seconds after the window has stalled in the fully open position.

What ????? i try to sterted manuely and it start but turn off the light stays on with the ignition. What light stays on ???? i try to sterted manuely ???? I try to start it manually !!!!!!! You need to take your vehicle to a qualified professional technicia .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uk0NjkhK0VE