Auto Electrician or Auto Locksmith / Alarm installer. You need the pro grade scan tool computer. Diagnose and programme.
Generally you can't workaround the ECM, BCM and modules controlling anti theft and immobilizer despite what the internet says. You have to fix what's wrong not find a way around it.
If I understand correctly, it idles fine but runs rough at speed. You have changed the first things I would have suggested and more. At this point I would get a fuel pressure gauge and attach the sensor to the fuel rail. Read the pressure at idle and at speed. There could be some blockage between the regulator and the rail. Another thought, sorta related to the first, is to clean your tank and replace the fuel lines. If they are the originals from 1995, they may have corrosion, varnish, or gunk built up that is blocking fuel flow. Remember, fuel pressure and fuel flow are very different things. It could also be related to the engine management computer. That is over my head, so someone more knowledgeable will have to give advice on that. Rick
If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your
car I know a website that has every info on all vehicles
and vehicle problems, with their solution In detail.. it's www.reliable-store.com
The sensor position depends on the particular engine you have. Google oil sending unit with your year make model and engine- most likely your answer is somewhere on you tube. Hope this helps! :-)!
The theft system is controlled by the BCM (body control module), located behind the glovebox. BCM codes and igniton key module codes must match. Did you have make sure the code generated by the key is a match for the BCM , if not the car will not start. Pellet in key is a resister that has to match the resister setting in the BCM. It is not the keyway module that starts the car,,it is the BCM.
There is more than one flasher. One is for hazards and the other flasher is for directional signals. They are located under dash just left and right of the steering column. Don't go tearing up the steering column, then you are asking for trouble. Try the least expensive and labor intensive fix first.
Did you check the cooling fan relay's ? Your vehicle has three of them . Free wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine , then under subsystem click on cooling fans . Then click the search button then the blue link . Learning how the fans work then testing the electrical circuits is how we as Technician solve problems like this . We don't ask if anyone has this issue an knows how to solve it . Someone else's fix maybe different from what it will take to fix yours .
The cooling fan's are computer controlled ,by the PCM - powertrain control module . When the engine coolant temp. gets hot enough the PCM see's this through the use of a coolant temp. sensor . When it reaches 212 degress the PCM energizes relay # 1 sending B+ voltage through both cooling fans to ground causing low speed .
Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics
An intake vacuum leak can cause this as well as other issues, read about it below.
Check Engine Light On, P0300 Random Misfire Code
A random misfire means your engine is misfiring, but that the problem is not isolated to one or two cylinders. It is jumping around in a random way from one cylinder to another. A random misfire code usually means the air/fuel mixture is running lean. But the cause might be anything from a hard-to-find vacuum leak to dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, a weak ignition coil, bad plug wires, or compression problems. Even a dirty MAF sensor can cause a lean code and/or misfire to occur. The engine may be stalling because it isn't getting enough throttle opening. The cause is often a problem in the idle air control system. The first thing to check is the intake vacuum with a vacuum gauge. On most vehicles a normal reading is 17 to 21 inches Hg. If the needle is lower, is jumping up and down or steadily dropping, you have a vacuum problem. Look for possible vacuum leaks by checking vacuum hose connections, the throttle body and manifold, and PVC valve and plumbing. An EGR valve that is leaking can also act like a vacuum leak and cause a random misfire. The next thing you should check is the fuel pressure with a gauge. If it is not within specifications (refer to a service manual for specifics because fuel pressure is critical for proper engine performance), the problem may be a weak fuel pump, low voltage to the pump (check the relay and wiring), or obstructions in the fuel line (like a plugged filter). A bad fuel pressure relay can also leak pressure and prevent an otherwise good fuel pump from delivering full pressure to the injectors. Dirty injectors can also restrict fuel delivery and cause a lean fuel condition. Many regular grades of gasoline do not contain adequate levels of detergent to keep the injectors clean. Frequent short trip driving accelerates the buildup of injector deposits. Cleaning the injectors with a good quality fuel tank additive (or having them professionally cleaned) can solve this problem. Look at short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) with your AutoTap Express DIY. If the numbers are high, it tells you the engine is running lean
Check the oil, the low oil sensor will disable the ignition if more than a quart low. Next change the air filter, a dirty air filter can put the MAF ( mass airflow) sensor out range. Next change the fuel filter. A cough or back fire is an indication of fuel starvation. Always do the cheapest fixes first. Perform an OBDII scan for stored fault history before buying parts you don't need.
When you say after first gear do you mean it shifts
from first to second and then does not shift after that. If that is what you are saying the problem is most likly the 3/4 clutch. The transmission is a 4L60E 4 speed automatic.
The 3/4 clutch is a week point in this transmission.
If you replaced fuel pump, you should have checked orientation of float to make sure it doesn't hit a baffle or anything.
You can use resistors to see if fuel gage reacts properly to the resistors, 90 ohms is full
0 ohms is empty. The wire colors for sending unit are pink and black. Take connector loose, use resistor between proper terminals, key on. If the gage reacts properly, the problem is in the gas tank.
Use a gage, check proper fuel pressure, 34--47 psi.
As far as pressure in the gas tank, check evap system where applicable or vent tube.
