20 Most Recent 1998 BMW M3 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi
A car battery can run down for any of several reasons:

• You accidentally left the lights on or some other accessory that pulls power from the battery even when the ignition key is off.
• The battery is not being recharged while the vehicle is being driven (you have a charging problem)
• There is a key off parasitic electrical drain on the battery because a relay is sticking, a module is not shutting down, or there is a shorted diode in the alternator.
• Your battery is old and will not hold a charge anymore. The battery needs to be replaced.

Most of the time if the battery is fairly new and keeps getting drained have the mechanic check the alternator if its charing the battery.
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Have a compression check done, you may have a blown head gasket.
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.

Not sure what car you have because the title says M3 but the question says 528. Either way, this is actually somewhat normal for this car, but the positive camber gets more pronounced as the rubber suspension bushings get older and more stretched out of shape. Positive camber makes the car corner more solidly, but it does prematurely wear out the inside edge of the rear tires.
You can improve it by replacing the bushings. You can correct it completely by putting on adjustable control arms. Any performance BMW parts website will sell you the adjustable control arms.
Using tires with softer sidewalls will help a little with the uneven wear. A good choice for a 528, but you would not want to use low performance tires on an M3.
I have a matched pair of '97 328s. One has this problem and the other does not. After pricing new bushings and adjustable control arms, I went with the softer sidewall tire option.

Hi,

It means you have to reset the computer.
Go to any garage that has a reseting tools for your BMW and they would rest it.

Hope that helps you out!

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check your coil and ignitor maybe thats not picking up enough sparks to crank over the motor
hope that helps

is the your car engine cranking when you try to start, first check spark plugs ignition coils, remove one ignition coil and spark plug fix the spark plug in to the ignition coil then connect ignition coil to wiring and keep spark plug body touching on ground of engine head mettle parts, ask some one to crank engine then you can see is the plug sparking or not, do the same way to all the coils and plug otherwise you have to buy a ignition spark tester, is the all the coils and spark plugs are OK then check the fuel pump, it's sitting in under rear seat, before that do one thing disconnect oxygen (O2) sensor wiring and crank engine, the thing is if your oxygen sensor completely dead fuel pump will stop working, if engine start after disconnect O2 sensor, replace new O2 sensor, otherwise need to check fuel pump relay fuse and fuel pump. is this information helped you? please vote me and give a comment.

Have you tried driving it this usually clears faults
Also when stopped /engine running,turn steering lock to lock
If any warning lights are still on,take it to local auto electrician who will reset

yes.

first of all,put a jack under engine, put wood on top to prevent from hurting engine,jack up till a little tension is on jack to support engine.release tensioner, a 3/8 breaker bar will work in the square part of tensioner.next remove cruise control from braket and set aside.remove motor mount.if need be, jack engine up to remove belt. 3.1 v6

the regulator has broken its connection with the cable. You will need a new regulator unit.

Its the crankshaft sensor. this sensor, when bad, will send mixed signals to the engine CPU that will through of timing dramatically. replace the sensor asap.

I gather you're talking about the bonnet? If so check on the slam panel (part that the bonnet closes down on). Perhaps the return spring is stuck. May need a little grease. Just a thought

remove door pannel you will see three nuts undo the unplug conector take out then replace

the sound is the generater's ac power and the rectifier that filters the ac to dc in the radio is starting to fail or a filter inside the radio is failing to filter out the ac power

No, the engine does not need to come out. However, if you have ASC+T or even if you don't, you may finit useful to unbolt the throttle body from the intake manifold so it doesn't damage your brake fluid reservoir while you are lifting the front end of the engine in order to lower the back end of the tranny. Also remove your fan clutch and use a cherry picker on the hook over the water pump so the front of the engine doesn't come down and puts unnesscessary strain on your motor mounts.

they alway have problems on the rear electricakl conector, wigle the conector and if goes on an off then get another dispaly unit

make sure to find the hoses going to the firewall or to the cab from engine, they turn hot, both has to be hot if one is hoter than the other, that means your heater core under the dash is cloged, or the valve controling the flow is not opening, the valve is under the engine compartment, somewhere between the hoses, and
if both hoses turn hot, then you might have a bleen door inoperative blend door controls the cold or heat passege in the cab, try that and i will apreciate your feedback

hi amanda this kind of cars have very coming problem with the a/c control head wich is the swtch assembly where you turn the a/c on, i'm almost positive tahn you need a new or used digital display or head control for a/c wich is the same but people call it diferent, before you take it to an auto repair and have them charge you for guessins or trying to find the problem, get another a/c control head and have them replace it, good luck

i'll recomend you to take it to a pro or shop