20 Most Recent 1986 BMW 5 Series - Page 8 Questions & Answers

call your dealer or any bmw dealer

i gather the engine managment light is on? if it is this could be something as simple a gas/fuel cap replacement, replace it first and either get the code cleared, or it should go out after 10 or so starts or in some cases sooner .

Owner's Manuals... http://www.bmwusa.com/standard/content/owner/dgh.aspx

can you please send more information year model make and engine type. common issue on that type of car is the kick back sensor for changes and could be a case of transmission service could be in order

read your owners manual

Resetting seems to be an internet virus, that has spread to sites like this & folks with no vehicle knowledge, fail to understand you have to test a vehicle to find a problem There is very little that gets reset on vehicles & it is not done to fix anything

BMWs have solenoid actuated door locks (electric box that sits on top of the door latch - some years integrated into latch) that electrically "deadbolt" the locks. The door panel will have to be removed with door locked/closed (may result in damage to panel), electrical mechanism removed from latch, and latch manually unlocked. It's a very effective theft deterrent system, but when it fails, it can be a severe pain. The failure is quite common; they should almost be a regular service/replacement item on BMWs. Hope this helps, -Scott www.EuroPartsPlus.com

No gas, weak battery (battery may be new but is it charged?), crankshaft or camshaft sensor is bad, fuel pump bad, fuel pump relay or fuse is bad, haven't pushed clutch down far enough(rug caught underneath), fuel filter clogged, ignition coils bad. You need to give a hint as to what you have tried. Does it crank but not start/ Does it simply click(starter) and not crank/

There is no reset. You must replace the brake pad wear sensor wire (part less than $20). Go to RealOEM.com, enter your car VIN and get the specific part number. One each located on driver front wheel and passenger rear wheel. Only need to replace the one that you did the brake job on.

could be suspension or wheels out of round. Bent rims etc...

The easiest way is to simply unplug it.

EECS,pruge valve.

should find some bolts under the seat, slide fully forward, and back to get at them

Air in the brake lines. Brake fluid can not be compressed. If air is in the brake lines the air will compress not allowing the rear brakes to apply. Check your owners manual for the type of brake fluid required, (DOT 3, DOT 4 OR silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid) remove the bap from the brake master cylinder. You will feed another person to pump up the brakes then depress the brake pedal while you get under the car and loosen the wheel cylinder for drum brakes or caliper bleed screw allowing the brake fluid and air to escape your braking system plumbing. Repeat this until brake fluid without air comes out the bleeder screws. Be sure to add brake fluid so the master cylinder does not go dry. The brake bleeders resemble a grease zerk fitting. Hopefully this will get your brakes operating normally.

Without wiring diagrams to learn the system for the horn-check to see if the wiring is still on the horn. Then a dealer or repair shop --- is next

Most cars have 2 separate flasher modules, controlling turn and hazard function separately. To be on the safe side, turn on your hazards and make sure all 4 corners of the car have lights flashing. Once you know all your lights are good, check out your flasher module. The old, thermal style flasher modules (and some of the newer electronic ones) have contact points inside that wear out over time or become carbon caked so you'll hear the flasher trying to work but won't flash the lights.