2006 BMW 750Li - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need to hook up to computer at garage to clear dasboard fault lights-the same gizmo they use to diagnose faults

sounds like a faulty impact sensor designed to unlock the door in an impact, in the door telling everything else its open but isnt

a relay is controlling it and i dont remember where its at but its a relay

it is under the hood by the battery and where the brake booster and master cylinder is at,. hope u find it

kinda.
alldata calls for 7.5 hrs. to replace it. so that means around 10 to 12 hrs. for somebody that isnot familiar with bmw and don't have the tools for it.
sorry

My massage on my seat doesnt work?

switch is dirty or worn or its a software fault, system has a driver like a pc with a mouse etc if the unit reads the controler wrong it can do this. can also be a loose wire from the switch to the controller board,and its connecting and testing connection. the area where the switch is, are common to get dirty terminals., removing the switch and cleaning out the switch with switch cleaner would be the easier thing to do and testing the wiring and computer would need a run diagnostic ie they use a computer and take the vehicle for a drive and see if they can catch the system doing the fault and this can sometimes give no information on the fault.

hood sensor. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537598

get hold of a proper bmw scan tool and check dtc first befor changing parts

Seat switches are bad. Not unusual given their position. You could pull the wiring harness off and disassemble the switches to look for bad contacts, but likely both switches will require replacement:

Turn on your headlights and try to start the car. If the headlights go from bright to dim or off , then the battery or it's connections are bad, or loose or corroded. If the headlights stay bright, then the problem is likely the starter or it's connections. Hope this helps.

Connect jumper cables to the starter connection which should be visible under the car, hot to the bolted battery cable connection, negative to any ground. Connect the other end to a battery after you have crawled out from under the car.  Also consider; my BMW had the battery in the trunk, which should open with a key.

Bad neutral safety switch Shannon.

Personally I'd start with checking the fuse panel,on MBnz there're fuses that handle power to l/f&r/rear,r/f&l/rear. If fuses are good &/or power is going through but no action from the window motors then I'd remove one door panel at a time to see where the electrical connections hook up to the window motors and see if motor receives power but no action then could be obstruction on the rails?. If no power to the motor,I'd connect direct power to the exposed motor to see if motor is good. I'd try starting from the fuse panel FIRST!. Hope this helps. Alberto

If you believe them, change the pump.

(same answer as before) - It could be many things but my guess is that you have a cylinder misfire. Depending on the year of your car you can have the system scanned by the dealership (or some auto parts stores like Autozone will do it for free) and find out which cylinder is bad. If you don't have access to a scanner, try replacing all the spark plugs, it's inexpensive and will likely solve the problem.

It could be many things but my guess is that you have a cylinder misfire. Depending on the year of your car you can have the system scanned by the dealership (or some auto parts stores like Autozone will do it for free) and find out which cylinder is bad. If you don't have access to a scanner, try replacing all the spark plugs, it's inexpensive and will likely solve the problem.

stallsare complex.can be many things.testing solves all riddles.got tools, got hand gauges and meters?stalls with foot in it.or only at traffic lights?that be the first question,

It sounds like it could be the water pump. Before (most) water pumps go out, it will start a tiny drip out of the bottom of it. There is a hole made on the bottom of the pump itself. So, when the seal starts to wear out, it will begin to "weep", letting you know that it needs replacing. The hole itself is called a "weep hole". That is what it sounds like as best as I can guess from your description. The water pump will have a belt going around it to make it spin, internally. The pulley on the outside of the pump is what the belt will attach to. I hope this helps, let me know what you find out.

Please provide some more detail. Sounds like you''' need to replace the "controller"