20 Most Recent 2001 Volkswagen Golf - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Go to erwin.volkswagen.de and you can get the corrct timing procedure by vin number that will be correct to the exact car you are working on.

Here it is

Hi, have there been any running issues. I have replaced a few acclerator pedal units due to the codes. p1296 is different and further diagnosis would be rquired as this is a general cooling system fault.

REPLACE THE DOOR LOCK!!IF U NEED MORE INFO LET ME KNOW!!

there is a lead on the gearbox that dose ur speed counter this mite be the same lead as the reve counter

IF THE PEDAL STAYS DOWN U MIGHT NEED TO REPLACE FIRST THE PUMP LOCATED AT THE GEARBOX.

Hello! Most probably is the distributor, you should check that first, maybe it got cracks on it or its not sealing perfectly and "steals" the spark when got moisture around. What engine type you have on the golf? Other problem could be from faulty ignition cable

roughly if you are doing 3000rpm you will be doing approx. 100 klms/hr or 60 mph at 120km/hr you would be around 3200rpms.; Remember this will be in o/drive or 5th

you do not need to bleed the fuel lines . turn the key on for 30 sec then off do this several times and the pump should prime the sys . if not , you might have a fuel pump problem

Your most probable cause for this is because your water valve needs replacement or repairing. Not all cars have a water valve that brings the heated coolant into the heater core unit.

Essentially, the heated coolant is brought from the engine block directly, into a mini radiator that has a fan to blow heated air into your vehicles cabin.

If that valve were clogged, or the switch itself to open up the water valve that blocks the coolant from going into the heater core unit, then you wont be able to get heat from the vents.

ALSO, another reason why your car might also be overheating as well, is you need to check your coolant levels as well to make sure it is fully filled up, if it is, then your thermostat might also need replacement.

good luck with your problem.

Assuming that the engine does start; does the starter motor turn for some time before the engine fires up or does the engine start easily? does the engine idle smoothly or is it shaking? You might want to check your injection timing - the pump timing in relation to the crank- and cam timing as well as the injection timing device on the pump itself. Then there is the needle lift sensor on the number 3 injector that can play up as well. These things usually play up on high milage...

no, it sucks horribly

It is the hazard (emergency flasher) switch