20 Most Recent 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Call your local junkyards to see if any of them have any Silhouettes in their inventory with tail lights still installed. If they do, remove the tail light that you need, disconnect the connector and examine the connector (both Male AND Female sides) to make sure it's not fried too. On mine, both the male and female pins connected to the green(Ground) wire in the vehicle harness that was corroded.If it looks good, install the connector and cut the wiring on the vehicle side a foot back from the connector and remove the complete tail light assembly with the connector. The Female connector is built into top of the Lamp Holder Assembly and since both pins are corroded, the Lamp Holder must be replaced at the same time as the harness side.Cut the damaged part out of your car leaving enough of your harness to splice the wires together. I soldered mine and covered them each with shrink fit tubing at the joint then wrapped all the junctions with electrician's tape for protection and some water integrity?? By the way, the complete Tail Light Assembly cost me $40.00 and I wound up with a spare left lens!Hope this helps.

You can't fix it yourself. It takes a scanner at your Local Dealership to do it. People do it, (new battery) everyday unaware that doing so can and usually does, arm the theft system and either kills the radio or the whole car. To me it's just another built-in defect that requires dealer assistance. It's a buzzkill I know, and it probably won't be long until car owners won't even have access to the engine compartment.

I have enclosed a picture diagram to help you locate the crankshaft sensor, some have two sensors so you will need to look. the first location is behind the crankshaft harmonic pulley. and the other location is on the right side of the engine. hope this is helpful.

I think you correct in thinking the sending unit is bad, this is a common problem. if the temp gauge reads hot and the engine is running normal and there is no coolant overflowing onto the ground and the radidator is full then i would have to say that the car is not really overheating but rather the sending unit is bad, i would replace the unit and go from there. these trucks run up to above the three quater mark on the gauge at times before the cooling fans are turned on by the computer. hope this is helpful.

This sounds like the fuelpump is bad, it may have been on its way out or when you ran out of gas it sucked up all the dirt at the bottom of the gas tank. it sounds like the pump cant produce the correct amout of pressure needed to keep the engine running. if you have a fuel pressure gauge you can test the pressure and know for sure its a bad fuelpump. you would connect the gauge to the valve on the fuel rail and then turn the ignition on and there should be 55psi of pressure. if the pressure is lower by more than 4psi or no pressure then replace the pump which is located inside the gas tank. i think you will find that the fuel pump is bad. good day. hope this is helpful.

More than likely the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank

ur ignition switch is gone bad has to go to dealer for parts n recode

Its going be tough to pull out anything other than a small 4 cylinder without a hoist. You could use a comealong. Its like a small hoist, has a chain and a lever you can use to lift the engine. It has a hook on it to allow you to attach it to something.

But to be able to use it you need to put the car underneath something that is sturdy enough to support the weight of the engine, like a large limb on a tree or a metal frame of a garage or something like that.
And you will need a sturdy chain. The bigger the better. Attach the chain to your engine lift hooks.
Get some grade 8 screws,nuts and washers from home depot. Get the largest diameter screws that will fit through the links of the chain. Make a loop on each end of the chain by putting the screws through links and tightening the nuts on the screws. Put the loops you made on the engine lift hooks. Attach the come along to the tree or whatever you can find thats sturdy enough to support the weight of the engine with another chain. Then lift the engine out.

you will have to detach the ac compressor and power steering pump and tie them out of the way with pieces of wire. That way you wont have to discharge the ac system or drain the power steering fluid. Remove coolant hoses and fuel lines. And remove the half shafts for front wheel drive. Then detach the motor mounts/transmission mounts. Of course, theres a lot of other stuff you need to detach, but im sure you know that already.

You can rent engine hoists for like $35 a day from a Taylor Rental or other equipment rental
company. Rent it one day and take it back and rent it another day when you are ready to
put the engine or another engine back in.

1. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate around the control panel by prying gently and then pulling it straight out.
2. Remove the control panel mounting screws.
3. Pull the control panel straight out from the instrument panel.
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
5. Installation is the reverse order of removal.
6. After installation, the actuators must be calibrated. For additional information, refer to the following section, -Actuator Calibration.-
   
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10. Fig. Remove the screw and pull the control panel straight out of the instrument panel.

To calibrate the system:

1. Place the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Install the HVAC control module.
3. Connect all previously disconnected components.
4. Start the vehicle.
5. Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control module to self-calibrate.
6. Verify that no DTCs have set as current DTCs.
7. Place the ignition switch to the OFF position.
8. With the Mode knob in the PANEL position, press and hold the AC button for 5 seconds.
9. Rotate the Mode knob fully counterclockwise.
10. Rotate the Mode knob fully clockwise.
11. Rotate the Mode knob fully counterclockwise.
12. Release the AC button.
13. Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control module to self-calibrate.
14. Start the vehicle.

You have a fuel level sensor that is failing. Extremely common on General Motors mini-vans. This component is affixed to the side of the fuel pump assembly, inside the fuel tank. It can be purchased separately from the dealership.

That is an evap emissions code. Since that is an emissions code I would check your catalytic converter. I hope this helps you out.

you need it scanned and the code will tell you which cylinder has the problem. p0303= #3 p0305 = #5 ect. then verify spark, fuel and compression Flashing is BAD you will damage the cat converter.

If your a/c filter is black, how can you see it and not know where it is? its behind the glove compartment. Theres a little panel in the back, pull it open and you will see the filters, but you already said they where black?.

Just on one door? Maybe a bad solenoid in that door.
All the doors don't work? Look at your interior fuse panel. There should be a small metal fuse. Maybe two (one for power windows). That is not a fuse but a circuit breaker. Pull it out to reset it and reinsert it. There may also be a relay. Not sure where but I think it is behind the passenger kick panel. I would check the other things first before the relay.

There are a number of really loud sounds that can come from under the hood. The most common noise that it could be is in the exhaust pipes. Although it sounds really bad it is not as likely to be as serious as some of the other causes because it is not a moving part and is outside the motor. It therefore is easier to get to and replace. The best way to determine the real cause is to lift the hood and have someone who knows what sounds are caused by what fault devices. I hope this helps.

WHERE YOUR AIR BOX IS FOLLOW THE HOSE3 OVER AND IT IS CLAMPED ON ADN UN CLAMP IT AND SEE IF NTHEMASS AIR FLOW SCREAN IS COVERED WITH CARBON IT SHOULD BE REALLY SHINNY AND CLEAN IF IT ISW THEIR IS A MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CLEANER SPARY THAT YOU CAN BUY FROM ANTY PARTS STORE FOR ABOUT 10.00.