20 Most Recent 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Fuel pump in tank fuse relay or you just installed a sterio and spliced wire that didnt need splicing

The leaking cover gasket may be an indicator of the problem as it up sets the sensor that looks after crankcase pressure . Next lack of acceleration is an indication of an accelerator position sensor and of MAP/MAF sensors . The engine light is flashing on occasionally because a sensor is out of parameters . Go to a shop that can accurately connect to the data link as I think there are codes there that are not being read correctly.

premise is fuel pump not working, assume you cant hear "whirl" at fuel fill hatch when pressurizing. check relay, if fine, check fuel pressure. no pressure ? change filter (should anyways when replacing pump). still no pressure ? fortunately pumps in trunk on your car, look for loose/disconnected connectors, stuff like that first. can get fuel pump rebuild kits online (new pump, strainer, o-rings, use original assembly) to save exspense of new assembly. heres how to get at it and get it out. http://www.ehow.com/how_5519793_replace-oldsmobile-aurora-fuel-pump.html ,its easy

when you say goes to floor is that quickly if so look for a puddle under car after pressing pedal down if not most times if the pedal goes down like sitting at light gradually going down is a sure sign of bad master cylinder

heater core/hoses ? does coolant system level drop after you turn heater on high ?

Front wheel drive cars have CV joints sounds like yours need replacing. Does it do it when you turn? Turn wheel all the way left an then right do you still hear it? If so joints are bad. May also be wheel bearing but my guess is CV joints

run the fault codes and look for problems in the canister system. Sounds like the tank is not venting properly and creating a vacuum in the tank which is restricting fuel flow to the engine.

air temp sensor are maf fault on the air intake. most of the newer types have the temp sensor fitted to the maf sensor box tel's engine to pump more fuel in until engine temp sensor reaches it temp then turns off the add more fuel. if not this it can be a clogged up egr and some fuel clean should sort this out if you not competent at removing it and cleaning it out, also another part can be the idle controller dirty injector cleaner can clean this out to.

Hi, The key that you have cut is too rough and needs to be filed abit. To get the key out of the lock spray some lubricant in and wiggle it till it comes out. DW40 or Graphite lube is good. Good luck

check the fuel pump inertia switch behind the passenger side kick panel. Also make sure connections are tight and not corroded. Then you might consider a new ignition switch from autozone for $25.

I would gets codes from Autozone guys or dealer. This is obviously an electrical problem and is usually picked up by the on board computer

for the V8 - it's underneath the intake manifold. You have to remove the Coolant overflow line, then the fuel rail. (be sure to disconnect the injector harness). I think it's 10 bolts that run around the manifold - unbolt them. Be sure to remove /pull back the vacuum lines and be careful not to break them. then lift off the intake manifold and voila, starter is held on by 3 bolts (i think). Just be sure to disconnect the battery before doing anything. reassemble in reverse.