Top 20 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette Questions & Answers

Have you check the air intake/filter? It can be as simple as that. If that is fine it may not be getting fuel or spark.

Inside the transmission . Which shift solenoid ? 1 - 2 , 3 - 4 , 2 - 3 ? The shift solenoid valves are two identical, normally open, electronic exhaust valves that control upshifts and downshifts in all forward gear ranges. These shift solenoid valves work together in a combination of ON and OFF sequences in order to control the positions of the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift valve trains. The PCM monitors numerous inputs in order to determine the appropriate solenoid state combination and the transmission gear for the vehicle operating conditions.

At a stop......Try revving the engine up with the brake on. If you get your power steering back.... Replace the pump. I have had this issue twice on my 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue over the years. Would loose power steering at idle off and on. (Very dangerous) New pump always fixed it.

I'd check ground circuit for lamps. Ground wire is black. Just to rule it out, you could pull the hazard fuse, then just concentrate on the turn signal. I've had good luck with redundant grounds. You can use a test light to check ground. One end of test light touches battery voltage, the other end touches ground wire terminal, if the light comes on, at least the ground is good enough to turn on the test light.

You may have damaged the transmission, have a local shop diagnose it.

Hey Anon, This is a serious safety issue... take this to a QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL ASAP!!!

Timing chain may have slipped a link. Run a compression test. Bad crankshaft sensor is also possible. Is the engine light on?

You hooked it up wrong . Is there power at the purple wire all the time ? ignition the starter was (winding ) ???as soon as I reconnected the battery. The starter cranks the engine !It's really called a cranking motor not starter . Do you know where that comes from ? Before electric starters you cranked the engine by hand . Suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop.

Power flushing is usually not a good thing as the heater cores can become blocked.I would suggest to remove the lower rad hose and drain as much coolant as possible.Refill with clear water with lower hose reattached.Bleed system of air as you fill with water and keep filling until operating temp is reached.Drive and return and drain it again the same way,now refill with at least 1 and 1/2 gallons of dexcool and don't forget to add the vegetable based aluminum protector required in your vehicle available from gm and make sure you bleed the air from the system from the valve just to the rear of the rad filler neck on the engine at the end of the coolant pipe running across the front of the engine.

Starter has teeth that mesh with teeth on the flex plate . most of these type grinding noises are do to missing teeth on the starter gear or flex plate missing teeth .Does your vehicle have a automatic transmission ? Have you had starter replaced lately ?

Hello msbrig, This is a REAL SWAG (stab in the dark... (a bit reasoned))... Confession... I'm no GM expert... but General Motors & FRIDGIDAIRE are the "GREATS" in automotive A/C. and This is the BEST DOCUMENTED QUESTION I have ever seen (congratulations)... I hope I am not doing a disservice by attempting an answer... If your vents blow al any time... you ought disregard their behavior.. Likewise temperature controls... and DUAL EVAPORATRS... front & rear... The fact that your troubles are intermittent in the FRONT & REAR is a really great SYMPTOM... You are MOST LIKELY looking at only two POSSIBLE PROBLEMS.... 1. - Either your CHARGE is insufficient to keep the compressor running.(pressure switch monitored) OR 2. - You have a SATUATED DRYER which is allowing moisture to block your EXPANSION VALVES (internal ice) ... External frosting is expected... a lot of external FROST is an indication of #1. (above: low charge)... A descent refrigeration person should be able to tell you the HIGH and LOW pressure loads... and watch your system cycle for a few minutes... Which should be long enough to DETERMINE if you are experiencing INTERNAL MOISTURE ISSUES... Some folks ROUTINELY replace the ""DRYERS' (desiccant) I do not... I use brains, gauges, experience... and your vehicles HISTORY I am here most every day... Push comes to shove... I have the Lincoln Navigator... dual EVAPORATOR system... (I'll pull the book & take a look). You can comment me back... I bought ALL THE TOOLS years ago... NOTWITHSTANDING my amateur standing... I only let the JAGUAR DEALER jam me for an $800 Schrader Valve since 1965 (Mustang(all the rest... I did myself)). Happy to chat... comment me back. (again: here daily) - Hope this inspires... Carnac the Magnificent http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/oldsmobile,2002,silhouette,3.4l+v6,1382295,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+receiver+drier+/+accumulator,6972 More Information for ACDELCO 1510088

Follow the link for a complete listing of this engines bolt torque specs. Torque Specs Database

-Always follow its repair manual. A good mechanic always follow its repair manual. (Not from the memory) Good luck Mai

Use a code reader or disconnect the battery NEGATIVE (not the positive!) cable for 5 min's. The best way is the code reader as you will loose all learned programming in the engine control computer and this can cause idle problems. Autozone will do this for you free.

have a compression test done to check for head gasket or cracked head

It does. Did you hit some one? I have never replaced one. Most likely a bad pump.

Are you talking about oil pressure switch? I'm not aware of relay?

3.4L V6 Behind the A/C compressor mounted in engine block

Are you talking about oil pressure switch?

check your battery cables for corrosion if its a chevy pull the ground and clean remove the bolt and pull insulater down.

Possible your voltage regulater is going bad have your alt tested at advance auto parts or a interstate local
Dont waste your time at autozone.