20 Most Recent 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage - Page 7 Questions & Answers

go to your parts suppler and ask for a H4 globe pop your bonnet and remove the plug on the back of your head light then remove the rubber boot paying attention to which way it cam off then you will find a spring clip unclip it but be careful not to damage its anchor point. remove old globe an throw away take new globe out of box DO NOT TOTCH THE GLASS OF THE GLOB AS IT WILL CAUSE THE GLOBE TO BLOW STAAIGHT AWAY AFTER FITTING IT handle the globe by the metle bass and fit it, refit spring clip and rubber boot fit the plugf and check the operation of the light

bingo you are done have a nice day

An over charging condition can burn out bulbs. Are the turn signals flashing faster than normal? Either way I would have the generator voltage checked. You acan do this with a simple volt meter accross the battery with the engine running but have somone hold the throttl open just off idle for the test. Also you can check in with Advance Auto parts or others, they will check your charging sytem for you for free I think.

Good luck

THe wiring between the door and flexes everytime you get in or out and sometimes wires break from this, usually inside the colored rubber coatings, you have to feel for broken wire inside

They Have Clips Try Sliding The Door Panel Upward Or Forward And If That Doesn't Work Pull On One Of The Corners And Get A Flashlight To Look For The Clips. You May Need To Remove The Crank Which Is Easy.

Get a tune up change spark plugs, wire, air filter, pcv , and gas filter.

 have changed it yesterday. It is simple but it is hard, beleve me. I am mechanically inclined person but it took one hour to put it together it is very hard to take out and to place it in to alin with the locks to get it properly locked on both sides. bifore you try to do anything spray WD40 aroud the handle which you could see at the back side of the headlight inside the hood. spray alot, because it should lubricate all the way to the bottom of the lock slider. Then next to the lever you can see small rectangle area with little xxxx kind of. that is the lock for the lever. try to move the lever you could see the xxxx part will also move. now use one finger to push the lock xxxx part and try to move the lever towards outwards. don't force gently back and forth, little by little. onece you reach the full open you will see the light is already come out little. this time use one hand to push slowley shake little move twist push and use the other hand in front to hold it take your time. will take some time. undo the wire connection then take the metal clip off and pull the bulb and replace with the new one when puting in there are three grooves try to alin all three and push it slowly and try to lock. it took me 20 attempts to get both locks on at one time. before you install the head light move the lock and see how it works and add wd40 along the tracks to work better. and use your comonsence to figure out how the lock works that will tell you how to push the lamp while you lock mostly it will lock only one side. so take you time try over and over slowly and stedly. also t is really a simple task and takes one man about 15 minutes, if you look inside the engine compartment about half way up the lamp housing you will see a lever towards the rear of the housing, lift this lever all the way up, it will unlock and start to slide the lamp housing out of the fender, pull it completly out of the fender, (dont wimp out on it as it sticks), on the rear of the housing is a wiring cover housing with one lever clasps on the top side and one just to the left, remove this cover, there are two stakeon wire connection and a spring holder on the bulb replace the bulb, and wiring housing, before replacing the lamp housing in the fender be sure to use silicone LUBRICANT in the slide at the bottom of the lamp well in the fender, slide it back in, push down lever and you are done
also The headlight is in a long, plastic tube. There is a slide release on the tube, with a square locking tab right next to it. The locking tab has cross hatches on it. You have to press down on the locking tab, while trying to slide the release toward the fender.
It's usually pretty tough to slide the release, but be patient. If you force it, you could break one or both of the tabs off. This would leave you with no way to remove the headlight.
Once you have released the catches, the entire light fixture slides out of the front of the car. You might want to have someone helping you at this point, as if you drop the headlight you could seriously damage it.
While sliding the headlight forward, detach the power line from it. Do yourself a favor, and spray the cylindrical holder with wd-40. This will make reinsertion much easier.

i need 4g91 wiring diagram.urgent....

check for a vacuum leak

Hi havenable,

First thing to do, Chock the wheels and apply the parking brake....Loosen the wheel nuts ,jack up the front wheels and remove the wheels....Which ever side you start from, turn the steering so that the joint so that it becomes more visible....check to see if it has split pins or self locking nuts....if split pins, remove them then carry on ahead and remove the nuts....
....The shaft of the tie rod end is tapered, (a cone shape )....and it's fitted into a tapered hole where it fits into the hub.... It is possible to purchase a special wedge shaped tool to put between the tie rod end and the housing....If you have that or a ball joint puller use either one of those....with the wedge hammer it home with a large hammer....the ball joint remover, fit it to the joint, and screw the center bolt home to meet the top of the joint (where the threaded part comes thru the housing.....If you don't have these tools, the old fashioned way is to use the hammer against the side of the housing, where the tapper is fitted into it....strike it hard and three or four blows should allow it to fall out....Tighten the new joint onto the tie rod, to make the rod about the same length as it was when you removed it from the rod....Tighten the locking nut against the shoulder of the new part and then fit the tapper into the housing and tighten that too...chek all the bolts and nuts once again and reassemble the vehicle....Your fist trip will then be to an alignment center, to have to 'toe in' adjustment carried out....Job done....

Best regards Johngee10

spark plugs

P0300, P0301, and P0302 are all misfire codes (cylinders #1 and #2, and a multiple/random misfire). The only time I've heard of this being related to a crank sensor is if the sensor were loose. Furthermore, a crank sensor issue should affect all cylinders equally. So I'd expect you'd have the P0300 only, or all the codes you have plus P0303 and P0304 (and P0305 and P0306 if a V6).

You should continue checking your secondary ignition system. Presuming the wires and plugs made no difference in the codes or condition, check the coil. You'll want to do your checking when the problem is occurring. Perhaps even mist the wires and coil with water to see if you can see a spark jumping. If you do indeed see a spark jumping, that is the location of your problem.

Another strategy you can use is to take the #1 and #2 plug wires (if accessible) off the plugs and just set them back in place without clipping back onto the plugs. Then, start the car, and gradually pull the wire(s) off the plug(s). The spark should come out of the end of the wire onto the plug. If it comes out of the coil or the side of the wire, then the problem is in the location of the spark.

If you're unable to find a secondary ignition problem, then you should begin investigating whether you have a fuel delivery or internal engine problem causing the misfire. Most engine issues will show up with a compression test. If you indeed are only misfiring on cylinders 1 and 2, you can swap those injectors with the others to see if the misfire follows the injectors.

https://mirageforum.com/forum/showthread.php/5561-Where-is-the-fuel-pump-relay-located

Check: Fuel Ignition Timing

A spanner usually means the vehicle is due for a service.

The most common cause is the coiled contact drum under the steering wheel develops a cracked circuit filament (this part is commonly referred to as the "clockspring"), and yes this is not an OBD2 car but the airbag is not part of that system anyway.

Fan clutch or water pump.

It could be a melted light switch due to poor contact causing high resistance and heat at the connector. A melted plug and terminals would require replacement of the switch and the "Pigtail" plug with new wires that need to be soldered in.

chek plug cables first of all