20 Most Recent 2005 GMC Yukon - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Use an OBD2 code reader (you can buy them at WalMart). If there are no codes stored there is a reset function that will turn off the light. If the light comes back on after that, then there is another problem.

Do not attempt to switch into 4WD while moving. Slow down to less than 2mph before switching. If it is equipped with Auto 4WD, try switching to that first, then to 4 High (again while going < 2mph). If this still doesn't work, have your transfer case fluid checked.

this just happen to me 2005 denali; dead battery in the morning, replaced it...and I have cold on drivers & screaming hot on passenger...is there a fix posted....& I just dont see it?? what gives?

What kind of car?

It sounds like the lock actuator has failed or has a poor connection which won't allow the latch to release. What you will need to do is remove the inside rear hatch panel to access the lock actuator. Once you get to the latch use a flat screwdriver to release the latch being careful not to damage the glass.

----------- Click this link below for more troubleshooting:-- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/09/rear-hatch-wont-open-on-2005-gmc-yukon.html -------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

if it is a factory radio (head unit) i believe you need a code to unlock it. its something the auto companies started doing awhile back so when someone stole your radio they could not unlock it to resell it.

make sure the gas cap is tight. if not this will cause the check engine lite to come on. if not it may be an o2 sensor. hope this helps you best of luck

{: ) The usual problem is on the rear door actuator and it comes with three cables, serviced as an assembly. But you will need to open the rear door manually, from the inside. However I cannot teach or demonstrate to you how for you might break something on the trims if not properly executed. I suggest you bring it to a shop that's familiar with the job. The fuses, wirings, and relay are possible culprits but rarely the cause. The rear door actuators for these models have a very good? record of replacements.

{: ) I'm sorry but you cannot change the dashlights by yourself, if it's some bulbs you are after. The instrument lights for this model utilizes the LED technology and it can only be serviced electronically or as an assembly.

{: ) Have someone control the power fold buttons, while you check closely the passenger mirror. If you can feel or hear even a faint hum of the motor while commanded, try giving it a little help, but don't force it if you think it doesn't have enough power to extend or retract itself. The motor could be really stuck or inoperative.
Sometimes when the mirror has been accidentally or manually folded, it needs to be reset by just pressing on the fold buttons a few rounds and let the mirrors fold by itself. Like an exercise.
If you hear the humming noise whenever the fold buttons are pressed, we can assume that the circuit on that side is ok since it is responding electrically, and that a jammed or stuck mechanism is preventing it to move.
If you don't feel or hear any humming, as in totally no sign of response, then there will be additional considerations before deciding to go for a replacement mirror. You will need to confirm if the fault is on the wirings, a door module, or the mirror motor itself. A scan tool test may be recommended for effective diagnosis.
The power fold mirror can be serviced as an assembly. So, goodluck.

GAUGE CLUSTER OR A/C CONTROLS?

Hi

Look for a "reset" button on the front or back of the unit, press and hold. If that doesn't work try disconnecting and then reconnecting the power to the CD player.If that doesn't even work ,follow the bellow steps in this link to try the methods if the cd changer wont eject the cds:-

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Stuck-CD-from-a-Car-CD-Player

The no disc error means that the CD player, for some reason, does not recognize the disc. There are various reasons for this error, from the CD lens eye being dirty to a CD format that is incompatible with the player. Troubleshoot through process of elimination. Use a format that the CD player recognizes. For example, you cannot play the DVD disc format in a CD player. Also, some CD players won't recognize some burned CD-R/CD-RW discs. If this is not the issue, you will have to clean the laser eye of the CD player.

Drench a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol.Angle the cotton swab so it can reach the CD player's laser eye. Gently wipe the surface of the laser eye with the swab.Blot the laser eye with the dry end of the cotton swab until the alcohol residue is gone. If this does not work, you will have to use a laser eye kit.Insert the CD lens cleaner disc into the CD player.Press the "Play" button on the CD player to initiate the cleaning process. The CD cleaner disc will stop when the process is complete. Remove the disc when it finishes cleaning.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept this particular suggestion.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

I know what this is, when you changed your battery you reset your in dash cd player. Shuting off the security code. you need to take it to a shop or at the worst your local Dealership and they can reset the security code on your radio and it should work proper again. This is an anti theft device that disables the deck if it is removed from the dash Or from power. Hope that helps.

• Hi, here is the owners manual for your 2005 Yukon. It's a free PDF http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/gmc/2005-GMC-Yukon.pdf
• When you get on the manual you want to reference the "Instrument Panel" section.
• Sections 3-35 to 3-36

• If you have any comments you can leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

The push button devise you use to lock and unlock the doors is your Key fob. It has battery's to make it work, they are inside the fob. Think of it as a TV remote, they use battery's to send the signal to the Tv. Same for your Key Fob uses battery's to send a signal to the car to lock / unlock the doors.

{: ) An engine light indicates a fault has been detected on your emission systems. If the fault is current, it will stay on, or even flash. There are times when it will stay on even if the fault is not there anymore. That's why cycling the ignition on and then off helps in clearing the engine light. If it clears, that means the the fault has been corrected and cleared. However, if the engine light comes back again, then there's really a problem. It can be caused by several things, that's why a scan tool is recommended to determine the codes that have been set by a module. These codes aid in quicker diagnosis and repairs.

back of the engine, at the transmission flange, slightly towards the driver's side

{: ) If nothing at all works on your cluster and the information screen is totally blank, try checking the IPC DIC fuse10amp and IGN E fuse 10amp at the underhood fuseblock. If both are good, then the cluster should be removed to check for poor terminal connection, or it could be a wiring issue. Make sure power from the fuses is reaching the cluster terminals, and check the black wire terminal for a good ground.
It is also possible that the cluster is not communicating. A scan tool can determine quickly if the cluster is communicating, and it even have these special functions to test your gauges and indicators.
If all tests failed, then you will need to replace the instrument panel cluster and have it programmed.

{: ) If the front a/c and heater is working fine, that's good. At least the problem can be isolated on the rear HVAC circuits only.
Check first the RR HVAC fuse 30amp at the underhood fuseblock and the IGN 3 fuse 10amp at the IP fuseblock. If you found them good, then you can begin diagnosing the blower circuits wirings and connectors.
A faulty blower definitely will not give any output. If it doesn't spin for some reason, rear a/c or heating cannot be circulated.
A faulty blower resistor or speed control processor can also cause a zero air output. Sometimes, the blower may only work at certain speeds only.
A faulty rear HVAC control switch may not give the proper signals to the blower resistor or speed controller, and in turn will render the blower motor disabled.
Sometimes it can be a terminal connector being loose or burnt. However, the most usual cause for this type of problem is a faulty blower resistor.