2002 GMC Yukon Denali - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have the vehicle checked for code's . will show what cylinders are missing . Do drive it like that , check engine light flashing , will damage the catalytic converters

get the factory service and repair manual from the given link it will help to fix the problem your self http://toolsnyou.com/

-Open valve cover and check it out. It's bend or out of adjustment. If it's bend then has to replace the valve that make noise. If it's out of adjust or gap is too wide then just adjust to the correct gap. you should be good to go. Good Luck Mai

Camshaft sensor

45 - 50 ilbs.

I was also facing a problem like this and i got the solution of my problem at the toolsnyou.com site .They provide best service manuals. http://toolsnyou.com/ .Try to visit it once.

That is called the sway bar. You really really need that

You need to have the systems control module scanned for fault codes, anytime the light stays on there will be a fault code

a broken CV or UJ on a drive shaft can cause the steering to lock up , jack up front end and check for damage to the drive shaft's rubber covers to the drive joints, push/pull wheels in and out , as in steering motion while spinning wheel and feel if there is anything restricting a smoth movement , hope this helps

I just changed my oil pan gasket on my 2001 GMC Yukon Denali. Once all bolts are off the oil pan, the pan and off the block it has no clearance because the differential is in the way. I removed half the diffential since the housing is split in the center. You will see bolts on the differential housing, remove those. But before the diff can come out to make room for the pan to drop you have to remove the axel attached to the diff on the passenger side. Once the axel is off the diff you have room to remove half the diff. Make sure to drain the gear oil first. It take a bit off pulling and wiggling but it will come off. Once that's clear the oil pan is completely free to come out. Hope this helps.

There is a book that come with the car....

Have you tried to go to a near by autoparts store, ask them to check your computer, they can help you for free and they have part you need. Good luck

In fuse box under hood

Are the cooling fans working when AC is 'ON'?

Did you pull a coil an check for spark before replacing the crank sensor ? Does it have fuel pressure ? Are there any lights lit on the SECURITY ? No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

atleast a couple hours if someone knows what they are doing

If the bat went dead and was disconnected it can take 25 to 50 miles of driving for computer to reset sensors and controls. Sounds like MAF Sensor maybe reading different than when it was first driven. Did you drastically change climates or altitudes, New readings from when it originally was put into service. Slight changes in temp, alt and other variables gradually reset, if driving does not improve within 50 miles it will need diagnostics.

Under the dash , steering wheel side, The panel right under steering wheel has to be taken off, two screws an two clips . The end of the dash has to be taken off first ! There are three connectors going to the BCM . Removal Procedure

1. Remove the IP cluster trim plate bezel. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster Trim Plate Bezel Replacement .
2. Move the IP extension rearwards. Refer to Instrument Panel Extension Replacement .
3. 
4. Remove the knee bolster screws.
5. Unsnap the top of the knee bolster from the IP assembly

I am not familiar with your vehicle but if you call an auto parts store they will pull up a schematic for you and show you where it is exactly. Most likely a dealer would do the same.

Check the solenoid switch on the electrical panel under the hood. Just switch the solenoid for the lights with one of the others just to test it. This is a cheap thing to replace.