Top 10 2006 Ford Escape Questions & Answers

disassemble the right wheel assembly and pull out the right wheel axel. Remove the alternator throught the right wheel well.

P0732 and P0734 indicates gear ratio errors in 2nd and 4th gears, basically no 2nd and 4th gear. The one thing 2nd and 4th gear has in common is the band, the band is known to break, this is a common failure with this transmission and happens on a regular basis.

You need to remove the transmission to repair it.

Hi!!
Click on the following link for step by step.instructions on how to Remove and Install the Engine on a 2006 Ford Escape.
Good Luck!!!

I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. The 2006 is the same. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.

You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.

Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Snap ring.
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.

...or you can take it to the dealer.

Good luck. Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:

The fuse panel is located on the right-hand side of the center console, by the instrument panel. Remove the panel cover to access the fuses. Check position 21, 10AMP (*) Rear wiper motor, Rear wiper washer (colored in the diagram)...



(*) Mini-Fuse

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer)

here is how I do it.
http://youtu.be/3xZBld7MW8E

Well, this one is a royal pain, but you've likely already figured that out. A neighbor had to have the one in her Escape done and after looking at it (thinking how hard could it be to replace the alternator for her...) I directed her to a friend's shop to have it done. He still talks to me so I guess no long term harm done, LOL, but he did say he was never interested in doing another one on an Escape.

OK, well let's get to answering your question. I'll paste the general information for you here, plus the link at the end of it to where I retrieved it from rather than type the step by step from my own memory, but this is pretty much it, including the bulk of the tools you're going to need.

One further note, as difficult as these are to replace, make certain you're not skimping on quality by going to some general parts place with their "lifetime" replacement units. Bite the bullet, buy a factory unit from the Ford parts department and likely you won't be doing this job again any time soon.

Here we go:

DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE


1. Block the tires, set the emergency/parking brake, and put the truck up on jack stands and remove the front wheel.

2. Remove the black plastic splash shield from underneath the right side of the engine. It's held on by about 5 M8 bolts, and one Phillips head screw.

3. Remove the serpentine belt. With the cover off, from underneath you can put a 3/8" drive socket into the tensioner pulley.

3. Next you need to remove the right front axle. Do it in one piece. Loosen the 32mm nut that assembles the shaft to the spindle. Back the nut off so about half the threads can be seen- you will hit the head of the nut to get it to go back through the spindle. Remove the front (15mm) and rear (I used a 3/4" but it was slightly too large) bolts holding the lower control arm to the frame. I pulled the assembly away from the truck at this time and braced it. Use a socket on the nut. This will star the process. After it started to go through I used the jack handle until the axle went back through the spindle. Now remove the 2 nuts (10mm) holding the half-shaft bearing and slide the front axle out of the trans-axle case in one piece. PLACE A CATCH CAN UNDER THE AXLE, YOU WILL LOSE FLUID!!

4. (YOU DID DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, right?) There are 2 plastic snap clips holding the back splash guard for the alternator. A flat head screwdriver will pry these out and and if you're careful you can reuse them. There are (3) M13's holding the alternator, two on bottom, one on top (do the top one first, it's easier to hold the alternator up to get the last bolt out. Remove these bolts and slide the alternator out of the way. (Try using different extensions and a u-joint on the ratchet, they can help in different combination's. This will also help when you are removing the alternator bracket.

5. Now, that the alternator is unbolted, you need to take off the alternator bracket. There are 3 (10mm) bolts that go from the rear into the engine block. The top can be seen from under the truck. The next one is below and the third is easily remove from the side of the car near the wheel.

6. Once the bracket is out, you can you have a little more room to get to the electrical connections. Be careful with the regulator connector, you need to push inn the tab that holds it in. I used a flat screw drive on the tab to release the lock. If you look at the new alternator and you will see a square hole in the connector where the lock engages the connector). The positive wire is held on by a 10mm nut.

Put is all back together. You will lose a little over a quart of tranny fluid so you may want to pick that up when you get the alternator.

The hardest part for me was literally unplugging the alternator. There is no extra wire so getting in there to push the tab and pull the plug was rough.

Total time from start to finish was 2hours 15minutes from the time I broke the first lug-nut loose until I started the truck, this included a run to the auto store to empty my oil container so I could catch the transmission fluid and a 10 minute break for some water. It was about 90 degrees and very humid. I used all hand tools, no air. I'd be happy to go another 6 years and 180,000 miles before I had to replace this thing again, especially in the summer when my other truck is broken down and taking up the space in my air conditioned shop.


OK, me again. Here's the link I borrowed the information from for you and good luck on this one, it's a royal pain, even with a lift.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/465864-changing-alternator.html

You'll need Hydraulic Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wrench Set, Socket Set with extensions, Screwdrivers, Pliers, HAmemr, Pry bar, Fluid Drain Pan, Light, Rags, Containers to organize nuts and bolts, and possibly an assistant to help you out.
Then follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. remove the black plastic air intake to create some room
3. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick and if possible the dipstick tube
4. Remove all brackets, hoses or cables that connect the engine and transmission
5. Locate starter motor and remove easily accessible starter bolts
6. Remove any of the top bell housing to accessible engine bolts
7. Chock rear wheel to raise the front of the vehicle
8. Drain all transmission fluid
9. Put the oil pan back in its position but only tighten the nuts by hand
10. Remove the driveshaft by removing the 4 U-joint bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential
11. Disconnect all electrical connectors and hoses
12. Detach the oil cooler liens of the transmission
13. Remove the starter bolts
14. Remove the torque converter for the flywheel bolts
15. Remove all the bolts and nuts that are holding back the transmission mount
16. Remove the cross member
17. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe
18. Remove the transmission bell housing bolts
19. Now remove transmission from the engine and bring it down to the floor by removing the remaining bell housing bolts.
20. Lastly, remove the torque converter from the transmission
To know more in detail, please refer to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PVog9gD2o

Where is the camshafts on BMW z3 1997

I have a 2005 Ford Escape and have this problem. I can tell you that if the light comes on every .8 miles and blinks for 8 times, learn to live with it. After taking to dealer when it first started in about 2008, having the tone ring changed on the CV's for the tires, after been told maybe an alien lived in there....the light sell happily blinks on.If it comes on and stays on I would worry more than if it blinks intermittently. Mine has what they call "Intelligent 4-Wheel Drive" [which must be an oxymoron], but still has the 4X4 light to indicate when supposedly it switches in to 4-wheel drive according to driving conditions. Certainly if you haven't noticed any other abnormalities with how the vehicle drives this could very well be the culprit.Hope this helps.