Top 10 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 Questions & Answers

With engine cold, remove rad cap & check level in rad. Top it up if needed to 1 or 2 inches from top. Start engine, turn heater on (not defrost) and observe coolant level as engine warms up, add if necessary. Radiator fan should be off, and only come on when engine reaches normal operating temperature, for a short time, then shut off again. Let it run until that happens about 3 times, then put rad cap back on. If temperature gauge climbs up over normal toward hot, too much, shut it off. Do you now have heat? Is rad fan acting as I described? Let me know.

cam shaft timing marks on back of cams ,two slots ,use a flat piece of metal to align .remove no1 spark plug and drop long thin screwdriver down it to bring piston just below tdc,then align cams so both cams are on the rock (valves closed) with knob on back cam aligning with pick up sensor left side between lobes.then bring piston up to tdc and fit belt.turn engine over twice with socket on bottom pulley to make sure no valves clear pistons.Remember to remove flat edge from back of cams i didnt last time and bent my home made tool

I know this sounds crazy according to Ford:

You can use-
Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX MERCON® Alternative Transaxle Fluid - SAE 75W90 Gear Oil F32Z-19C547-MA API GL-4
You are seeing that right, one instance they call for 75W90 and the other it is ATF. It is ok to run either, 75W90 will give you smoother shifts and less noise.

This transmission is filled through the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) hole.

Your low side should have a "blue cap" on it. If it does not, it is located on the passenger side of the vehicle near the firewall.

Your IAC may be defective, first check the canister purge valve by removing the large hose off the charcoal canster and plugging the hose with a bolt or something you can fit into it, then try it also check PCV valve and see if it's bad. there are more things to check like fuel filter fuel pump and or fuel strainer if fuel tank but would need to have more information to help.

Check the hoses that go to the intake manifold. It's most likely the one for the PCV valve, the problem is, I don't know where to tell you to look for the PCV valve on that car. It's usually in the valve cover, it could be the PCV valve itself too. There's also a big hose that comes off the brake booster follow that. It could also be the gasket between the throttle body and the manifold.

The cam sensor is located at the front right front side of the cylinter head, while you are facing the engine.---------- The crank position sensor located below the pcv valve that is located on block not the valve cover, its below the exhaust manifold. You will have to remove the catalytic converter to see the exact view of both the sensors. The camshaft sensor is on the head. The crankshaft sensor is in the block, just below the exhaust manifold. ------------ Thanks.Helpmech.

Below is the master help link provided to go through belt routing diagram:---Timing belt,drive belt,serpentine belt,accessory belt,fan belt,engine belt routing diagrams for all types of car models?
Click the link below :----http://carbeltrouting.blogspot.in/2012/02/timing-beltdrive-beltserpentine.html
----------This will help.Thanks.

Hello Ashley,
Replacing rusty brake lines can be one of the most aggervating things to do quite often you end up replacing lines that you had not planned to replace. If you are talking about the brake lines at the rear wheels that would be good since they attach to the wheel cylinders on one end and flexible brake hoses on the other. The best way to replace these would to get them from Ford and then attempt to install them. The main lines from the front to the back you would probably have purchase steel line sections and unions (joiners) and bend them yourself since they are so long. The only picture I can find shows 2 main lines to the rear hoses, the rear hoses and 2 lines from the hoses to the wheel cylinders. Another thing that would be handy to have available is a set of line wrenches, these wrenches are almost closed but have a gap at the end so you can put the wrench over the line and then on to the line nut. This gives you the power and grip of a box end (closed wrench) but allows you to place it over a line. The only other thing you can use is a open end wrench which only has 2 sides and quite often rounds out the nut before it loosens, at this point vice grips are the only way to get them loose.
Focus Hydraulic circuit. Right front and rear wheels not shown.

Photo above is of typical flair-nut (line) wrenches

I hope this helps some Thre are 2 Focuses in our family but as luck would have it none of them are available for me to give you specific tips on how to complete your task and Alldata dosen't have a procedure for lines, only hoses.

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