Top 20 2001 Chevrolet Blazer Questions & Answers

inside the gastank

Should be 1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 cylinders are numbered down the right side of the engine (standing in front of the engine) 1, 3, 5 while the cylinders are numbered on the left side as 2, 4, 6.

If it's the one that is glued in you need to call a mobile glass company.

Which of these does your vehicle have ? The NVG 233 transfer case features a 3 button shift control switch, located on the instrument panel. The NVG 236 transfer case features a 4 button shift control switch located on the instrument panel. Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are ? Both of these 4X4 systems can set DTC'S , Having a professional or factory scanner is what is needed to check for these codes . Not a OBD 2 code reader or autozone , advance etc... The four button system can set a bunch of them . DTC B2725 DTC C0300 DTC C0305 DTC C0308 DTC C0309 DTC C0310 DTC C0315 DTC C0323 DTC C0324 DTC C0327 DTC C0362 DTC C0367 DTC C0374 DTC C0376 DTC C0387 DTC C0550 DTC C0611 The NVG 233 transfer case features a 3 button shift control switch, located on the instrument panel. When the ignition is in the RUN position, the transfer case shift control module starts monitoring the transfer case shift control switch, to determine if a new mode/gear position has been selected. At a single press of the transfer case shift control switch, the lamp of the new position begins flashing to inform the driver that the transfer case shift control module has received the request for a new mode/gear position. The lamp continues to flash until all shifting criteria has been met and the new mode/gear position has been reached, or has engaged. Once the new mode/gear position is fully active, the switch indicator lamp for the new position remains ON constantly. The NVG 233 transfer case provides the driver with 3 manual mode/gear positions: • 2HI - 2 Wheel Drive high range • 4HI - 4 Wheel Drive high range • 4LO - 4 Wheel Drive low range Any of these mode/gear positions may be selected while driving the vehicle. However, the transfer case will not allow a shift into, or out of, 4LO unless the following criteria has been met: • The engine is running. • The automatic transmission is in Neutral, or the clutch pedal is applied on manual transmissions. • The vehicle speed is below 5 km/h (3 mph). Finding out what if any codes are stored should be your first step .

make sure of the ground wire for the gauge

Could be worn pitman arm or bad steering gear box. try replacing the pitman first.

Check valve inside the fuel pump could be bad , in which case the fuel pump module will need to be replaced . Allowing fuel pressure to bleed back into tank . How to identify and repair leaking fuel pressure regulator GM CPI system...

your transmission lock -up - converter valve is loosing pressure and it may be causing this problem that you have. it is in the transmission pan area on the valve body. they sell a replacement valve for this

probably manually moved the actuator lever to the neutral or 2 wd position

I had the same thing happen when my battery terminal was loose; it killed the alternator, so the battery doesn't get charged. There are cheapo battery/charging system testers that plug into the socket, or your local auto parts store often offer free testing of the alternator and battery.

You may need someone to help with this, or not.Turn off the radio and any accessory that will interfere with hearing the fuel pump. Turn the key to the on position,the fuel pump should turn on for a couple of seconds to build fuel pressure, and then the pump will shut off. Turn key off. Turn the key on, the pump will do the turn on and off again. Do this about 5 times. Do not turn to the start position until after the 5 times of building the fuel pressure up in the lines. After the 5th time, turn the key to start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts, then you're loosing fuel pressure when it's not running. Most cars have about 60 psi of fuel pressure. You'll need a fuel pressure meter to check it.

You have to remove the clutch assembly to remove the fan from it, as the fan bolts are on the engine side of the clutch. To remove the clutch, you need a special tool. There is very little room to get at this stuff, so you are advised to remove the radiator first to avoid damage.

Should have four nuts or bolts on front of clutch . May need to loosen radiator shroud to more easily access it .

Greetings, I read your question and I think Reliable-Store can help you in this. Here's the site link. Best Manuals

Off the cuff, it sounds like the wiring is most certainly the cause if there are disconnected wires hanging down. There are some other possibilities, but it's better to stick to the obvious. While it's often good to go back to where the work was done and have it fixed under warranty (if they have one), I would consider going to somewhere reliable (good reviews either from friends or the web) and have it done right. If you don't have the cash, then you just have to bring it back and hope they have someone working who knows what to do. You might need to tow the car to get it repaired, it's a ticket or an accident waiting to happen without brake lights. Please don't drive this car in this condition. It could be they didn't connect the shifter into the computer/control circuit. There is a cable (could be a wire nowadays) that connects the speedometer to the transmission and it sounds like it's not connected or damaged. Same for the fuel sender, though not sure about brake lights. From what you're saying it's like they didn't take a picture or have good manuals for reinstalling the rebuilt tranny, and they have no experience; this is not good. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0410

With a single exhaust, one in each y-pipe leg, one for each bank. Sensor 1 bank 1, sensor 1 bank 2. Sensor 2 should be after the cat. Sorry, I don't have decent picture.

you start by having the fault codes read The ECM records all faulty sensors and by reading the codes you save money by not replacing perfectly good parts At this point it indicates a problem with the EVAP system that is not venting the tank properly but that is a guess from your statement

Take your battery to a battery shop and have the cold cranking amps (CCA) checked. Your battery can read on any multimeter but if the CCA is not there, you need a new battery. If the CCA is good then check your starter relay. Relays do stick occasionally. Swap it out with another relay with a similar amp rating if available. However, more than likely the CCAs are not there.