2000 Buick LeSabre - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

under the dash to the left of the steering colume usually near the fuse panel. turn on the hazard lights and look for the relay that is clicking this will show you what the signal flasher looks like. then look for the other flasher. have found some attached to the top side of the colume.

Have AC drained, remove serp belt, jack up car and remove lower front access panels, unplug wiring , remove 13or 15mm bolt from manifold lines on back of compressor,remove the 4 mounting bolts.

The 171 is an oxygen sensor code, you can look up That alone is not the reason for stalling or idle issues

What you will need is a replacement Window Regulator. You should be able to find one online for around $50.00. Make sure you Order the correct one. Drivers Side Front..... Passenger Side Rear... Each would be different. Removing the inner door panel. Check for videos on Youtube for your model and year to watch step by step instructions. On a scale of 1 to 5 this would be 3 to replace. Removing the regulator and getting the new one into place can be tricky. Just take your time and pay attention to how you remove the old one and what bolts and screws go where.

Run your Vin # at the dealer-- to see how it was built

some blink all the time as a theft deterrent but some blink to tell you that it is activated only..

It sounds to me that your belt or tensioner is worn, if the noise goes away when the ac is off then it is just the belt slipping, it takes a lot of power to run the compressor and if the belt is worn it most likely slipping on the pully when you engage the clutch.

When we detect a lean mixture code from our vehicles, our first reaction may be to replace the oxygen sensor. However, testing oxygen sensors before replacing them is a good idea. The best way to check the operation of the sensor is to run a simple test. And all you need is a voltmeter. A voltmeter is usually cheaper than car diagnostic tools and is available within 100 eurs. Here I will use an original Autel PowerScan PS100 for 56 eurs from EOBD2.FR. How to check if your oxygen sensor is bad and needs to be replaced: Step 1. Find the oxygen sensor sensing wire, connect Autel PS100 to the feedback wire and ground and then choose the mili volt operation. Step 2. Turn on the ignition key to start the vehicle and run the engine at idle to warm it up. Watch data on PS100. The voltage should move slightly at whatever voltage the sensor is centered at. Step 3. When you pull the oxygen sensor data stream up, the output voltage from the sensors should constantly bounce between high and low with the meter dropping and rising, as the engine is running in closed loop. The volt meter should stabilize at the original operating voltage when the engine returns to idle. If your oxygen sensor does not show the above reactions, it is probably that it is bad. Note: If the error code shows a malfunction exists with related components such as an engine misfire or other engine problems, please do not perform this test.

when engine get warm oil get thinner so it can leak from a small hole belt will make noise on dry pulley change belt

2000-2005

NO -should be hub bearing assembly

stuck flap under dash.

No. The switch provides current over two wires directly to the motor. The switch also reverses polarity internally to move the window in the opposite direction. If your motor wont turn, use a meter to check for voltage. My switch went bad and would only roll the window down and not up. Had to buy a whole new switch.

It is usually a little black dome, about 1 cm in width poking out of the defroster vent at the base of the windshield.

please do ask a real question where is it? how to test it? what does it do.? etc. like that, we can not guess this.

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There is a tube at the bottom of the heater-a/c box, it may be outside or so times it is inside the car, it is a drain and it either is clogged with dirt or it popped off it needs to be cleaned out or put back on so it can drain properly outside the car

En el aciento trasero tienes k kitar la parte donde te sientas y ahi esta la bateria

Unfortunately it is not a certain amount of time or miles that the car needs to be driven. There are several 'readiness monitors' that basically cover each emissions related system. For instance there is an EVAP monitor that checks the EVAP system and all of it's components under certain specific conditions (No VSS, TPS, O2 sensor, IAT, MAP, Fuel trim, Injector ciruit, EGR pintle position, ECT, or MAF sensor DTC codes set; Start up engine temp 40F-86F; gas tank between 15% and 85% full, Barometer above 75 kPa, system voltage 8V-16V). So more information is needed as to what failed you the first time. What DTC code was triggered? If the problem has been fixed right, the history codes will go away after 40 CONSECUTIVE drive cycles WITHOUT the problem re-occurring. Good Luck.

When you turn the key on, after a couple of seconds the system should cycle the compressor on for a couple seconds at least. If not, you'll need to troubleshoot if it is an electrical problem (fuse, relay, height switch/sensor, wiring in between components/bad connections) or a mechanical problem (compressor, hoses, bladder on air shocks leaking air). There is a fuse & a relay for the Electronic Level Control/ELC also called Automatic Level Control/ALC under the back seat in the power distribution block/fuse. Switch out a relay with a similar one and check the fuse for a burnt center section. There is a ride height sensor attached to one of the rear control arms. With the vehicle safely raised and supported, disconnect the 'link' from the sensor to the suspension arm. With the key ON and engine NOT running, push the arm on the ride height to the compressed/riding low setting. After about 15-30 seconds (it is slow to respond or it would kick on and off over every bump) the compressor should turn on and begin filling the air bladders on the rear shocks. If the compressor still fails to come on, you'll need to unhook the harness connector at the compressor. Again, with the key ON, engine OFF, height sensor compressed connect a voltmeter to the Dark Green wire on the chassis side of the harness connector (there are four wires to the compressor. 2 wires are for the electric motor to raise the car, and 2 wires are for the Vent solenoid the releases air pressure lowers the car) and ground to see if the compressor is being told to turn on by the height sensor. If it is being commanded on and supplied electricity, and still doesn't make noise or pressure, then replace it off a similar year GM vehicle that has rear air suspension (Cadillacs, Buicks, Oldsmobile Auroras). As long as the compressors are the same, you can just remount it in your car's mounting bracket assembly and save some $$. If the compressor comes on but the car won't rise, check the air lines to each shock from the compressor, the bladders on the shocks themselves, the filter on the compressor intake or even the vent solenoid assembly on the compressor unit has been known to leak/corrode/stick. Good luck.