20 Most Recent 2000 Buick LeSabre - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If I remember correctly, 27mm

I cannot tell you what is wrong without diagnosing the problem. However, I can do this:Let me give you a little "Automotive Technology 101". The first thing you need to do is to check what is missing when the engine dies. A gasoline powered, internal combustion piston engine needs 4 basic things to make it run:1. Volumetric Efficiency (built into the design of the engine)2. Air-Fuel Ratio3. Compression4. IgnitionRunning out and replacing parts without first determining which of these things are missing from the equation is usually a waste of time and money.....your post bears witness to this statement.The engine will not run at all if there is a serious problem with Volumetric Efficiency, and it takes an engineer to design and fix that anyway. It is not likely to be a compression problem if it starts and runs ok before it dies. So that leaves us with spark and air-fuel ratio.So the next question is whether it is fuel or spark or BOTH at the same time? There are several things that can possibly affect each of these. Several possibilities can be either verified or eliminated by answering this simple question.It is important to realize that BOTH of these things (spark and fuel) are controlled by your onboard engine control computer. To attempt to diagnose these things while ignoring the computer that controls them is usually a real EXPENSIVE way to perform this task.With all that said,What you need to do is check your fuel system and your ignition system when the engine dies. If the engine does not start right back up after stalling, it makes things a little easier because some "manual" testing can be used to verify a few things.Check to see if there is spark at the spark plugs. Check to see if there is (A) fuel pressure at the fuel rails and (B) injector pulse at the injectors. This will tell you if it is a fuel "delivery" problem (fuel pump, relay, fuel filter, etc.) or a fuel "injection" problem (computer inputs, injectors, injector circuits, etc.) or if the ignition system is malfunctioning (coils, wires, computer, electrical connectors, security system, etc.).From the sysmptoms you are describing, it sounds to me like if you were to actually check these things like they SHOULD be checked, you will most likely find that the fuel pressure is within specifications and that you have no injector pulse or spark at the spark plugs.If this is what you find, then the "most likely" cause of your problem would be a failed crankshaft position sensor, because this will affect BOTH the spark and the injector pulse at the same time.Proper diagnosis recommended.

bank 1 is closest to the firewall o2 sensor 1 is after the cat converter for that side exhaust system

lower rear of engine near the transmission front side of vehicle . The engine sits transverse ,driver side front . Jack it up an look under the engine .

At www.reliable-store.com get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew used it to repair my car and it's perfectly fine now. Here's the website he bought it from. www.reliable-store.com

Does it have manual or automatic climate control . Do you know ? It's probably the blower motor control processor . electronically controlled . Your vehicle is the same as this GMC GMC Yukon HVAC Blower Motor Won Turn On

Could be a bad coil, bad spark plug, bad fuel injector, however one cylinder will not cause a no-start condition. Plug the wire back in and see if it will start.

Have it scanned looking for diagnostic codes. Sounds like you could have a crankshaft or camshaft sensor problem, which will be a simple fix.

The neutral switch is located on top of the transmission under the hood.It is under the shift cable.Hope this helps.Good luck.

the problem is probably caused by wheel bearing leads (the wires that plug into) they often wear out I had the same problem once u find out witch side try cleaning the plugs wiping clean free the dirt , salt ,ect but on one side I just bypass the plug ran jumper wires that solve the problem sometime the computer will reset it self sometime you have to take posative cable off wait 5 mins reconnect this will reset everything

What was the code via the "service engine soon" signal?

bad connection to an abs sensor or a failing sensor.

Check the level switch at the back of the car - this turns the compressor on and off as the ride height changes. It may have come loose, is stuck or faulty.

Very common. Bad wheel speed sensor. Read this http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/abs-light-on-traction-control-off-gm-products/ ABS light on Traction Control Off GM products Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

Had this problem once. Sticky buttons. Just spray them with water and keep spraying till they come unstuck. Then take some card stock and make little 'tongue depressors - popsicle sticks' and use them to wipe out the surrounding areas of the buttons when they come loose. Seems like someone spilled pop on the dash and it dried. The sugar in the pop has stuck your buttons and they move like 'molasses in january' in Canada!!!

Give it liberal soaking of WD 40 and wait about an hour -get good tight wrench and turn counter clockwise.

The first thing the dealer would do is diagnostic's . Would not guess and just replace the BCM . Hooking up the factory Tech 2 scan tool an checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes , input data to the BCM etc. (I have reason to believe the BCM in my 2000 LeSabre is bad ???? )you have no clue ! The BCM has nothing to do with gauges , insturment cluster ! Beside's you still would need to take it to the dealer because it would need to be programmed . Leave this to a qualified repair shop . Plus the dash doesn't need to be taken apart to replace the BCM . Your vehicle actually has three modules for the body control system . The body control system consists of 3 modules: • The dash integration module (DIM) • The instrument panel module (IPM) • The rear integration module (RIM) You have no idea what your messing with . Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop ,and that doesn't always mean you need to take it to the dealer . Each of the 3 body control modules integrate a number of functional systems under the control of a single module. Each of the modules is connected to the Class 2 serial data line. Many control signals are implemented by Class 2 messages. Important: The air bag indicator light may remain ON after the DIM module is replaced, and during the programming procedure for the DIM, until after the procedure is completed and the ignition key is cycled OFF and ON . • Before replacement, record the personalization settings to transfer to the new module (if they are available). • After replacement of the DIM, perform the following procedure. • In order to reprogram the DIM, perform the following procedure. Using a scan tool, preform the New VIN Procedure. Perform the Setup SDM Serial Number in DIM Procedure. Using the scan tool, set the Point of Sale in the DIM module to the correct country. Using the scan tool, configure the RPO option configuration. Perform the vehicle personalization in order to reset the owner's desired personalization settings. Refer to Instrument Cluster, Gauges and Console. Plus power door locks and windows are controlled by door module system , not body control system .The vehicle is equipped with power door locks. Each lock actuator is powered and controlled by the door module mounted in the individual door. The driver door module (DDM) is the master control for the door lock system but the rear integration module (RIM) contains the program that determines when the lock functions are permitted. Mess with the wrong stuff an you will render your vehicle useless cost to much to fix.