20 Most Recent 2001 BMW 330 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi bensarabia,This condition is usually an indication that the a/c refrigerant level is low. The driver's side will always get heating and cooling first. I would recommend having the refrigerant level checked and also having it leak tested.

If you wish to go high-tech, you may look into an automotive stethoscope. On the other hand, a standard cardboard tube will work great for this. What you will be doing is looking for bearing noises. There are a few places under the hood I can think of that could be having issues. Listen to the fan belts, any pulley bearings, the water pump, the alternator, the very front of the engine, the very back of the engine, and all along the transmission, the power steering (Both pump and receiver), and the brake pedal booster. May also check the starter, the wiper motor, etc. After doing that, you may wish to take a flashlight, and look up under your dash. I've found the cardboard tube extremely effective in diagnosing strange whinings.

behind glove box

You don't adjust the tension. The tensioner on that serpentine belt is spring loaded and never needs adjustment.
On a 2001 with normal miles (~125k), you should be on your second tensioner pulley and your third serpentine belt by now.

You can remove the switch by first removing the shifter surround, then sticking a finger under the console and pushing the switch up and out.There are thin clips under this switch, which breaks and the dual switch has to be replaced.Its a common problem with this switches.Replacing the switch will help.-------------- To access the switch you need only pull the shift boot up (pops up real easy) and remove two screws located under the leather boot. Next remove the rear ashtray and take out a few more screws. After that with a little tugging the center console will lift up enough for you to get to the switches. You just push them up and out. Dicsonnect the electrical connection and you now have the switch in your hand. ---------- Once you have the switch out you can just clean it up with some "plastic safe" spray electrical contact cleaner. you can use Craig Deoxit or wd-40 spray and clean it.Then refit it and see, if its working.If not replace the switch.-------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

it maight be your key or your dme or immobilizer control unit.

You need to enter your factory security code to reset. Happens anytime you disconnect battery power. You SHOULD have a little card in your owners manual (book) with the code on it. If not you're going to have to contact BMW & provide VIN# or units serial #

The lever in the car is connected to a pull wire, it has probably just come undone. Get to where you can see the hood lever in the car and then look for the cable, it should reattach easily, if it will not, then you may need a new handle.

check oil level, oil cooler and oil pump- wath pressure it gives.

Most beamers of that year take a special tool, often lube shops have them....

Did you make sure the battery installed is a good one? Did you try switching it back out with the old one? Is the new battery the right one for your car? the battery needs to provide the correct cranking amps to start your engine. Was the car starting fine with the old battery? it is possible the ecu reset and hasn't gone back to default settings somehow.

You have a couple of issues here and both should be addressed by BMW or a specialty shop. Your lock issue is the locks are out of sync and there's a specific procedure to re-sync. The hazard switch could be the switch itself or a wiring issue. I'd have BMW look at it, besides they warranty their work for 1 year after repair.

You need to make sure your battery is fully charged and it holds that charge. Check your ignition fuse. Check the wires to the battery and make sure there is no damage. Make sure the terminals are clean. Your battery may not be holding a charge. It may be the alternator killing the battery. Inspect the wires that go to the battery to the starter. It may be the starter or starter solenoid. You can check each part by testing the current in the wires, going and leaving the part. If you have a question, let me know. I am here to help in anyway I can.

Hi,

Just find a place with a code reader so that you can see what is causing the check engine..

Removal from battery does not delete from memory.

If in the states, just go to a parts store like autozone.

Happy Motoring


G

if you are talking about the fan cutting off and on its most likely the blower fan resistor

The glue that attaches that silver plate to the window is similar to SuperGlue, but more dangerous to work with. You can try commercial SuperGlue, but for a permanent fix, you need the glue that windshield repair shops use.

Lean is an air leak after the MAF.

The MAF is telling the computer how much air there is by density and temp. The computer adjusts the Fuel Map according to the air density and temp. If there is air that enters the intake without the MAF seeing it first, the result will be not enough gas, which the O2s will report back as a lean condition.

The MAF will be telling the car that there is a certain quality -- density and temp -- of air, and the injector timing is set for that quality. New air comes in that the MAF has not seen, and now the fuel map is not opening the injectors long enough. You are probably looking at the lower intake boot being cracked causing the excess air to enter without the MAF sensing it. It's a common malfunction on our cars. Go to youtube and type E46 ICV and you'll see a video showing the intake area (from Xionunjust I believe). You can do this yourself a save a boatload of money. Take care of it quickly because severe damage can occur due to overheating (if ignored). If this helps can you please rate it. Thank you.