20 Most Recent 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The A/C drain hose is typically located under the car, near the firewall. The A/C drain hose runs through the firewall and located on at the drivers side . If you are looking at the firewall from the inside of the car... it is a molded white plastic piece. It is next to the gas pedal in the center of the car. It comes out above the tranny. So to actually get to it, you have to remove the exhaust and drop the front drive shaft. OR you may be able to come down from the top of the engine (3-4" space) and without being able to see... due to some wires blocking you view. There is a drain 4 the condensate at the front of the ac usually in the engine bay it is a rubber hose they get blocked with debris etc . under the car, follow the brake lines up the firewall on the drivers side, you will see a hole about the size of a quarter in a metal brace near the lines. The drain tube is in that hole, take a piece of wire and feel around, when you find the hole, you will get soaked. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Have your a/c pressure tested, the clicking could be the a/c compr coming on and off due to low freon, it will do that so it don't damage your compr when there is none or low freon.

Sounds as if the battery is becoming a bit tired. While the charging system may be in good shape, the battery, and its ability to hold a charge, may be diminished.

I hope this may have assited,
Tom

Any modifications you do to the airbag/safety of the car leave you wide open to be sued should anything go wrong,and your insurance company will void your cover.. sorry, but leave well alone.

All are recommended as a precautionary measure. Timming belt is not cridical but should be inspected and if you are that far in the servicing why not just replace it. The fluids vescocity (?sp) breaks down with time, temp and use. Redplacement keeps your mechanisms working at optimal performance with less wear. Best to do all the recommended servicing. Who are we to second guess some expert engineer who designed and tested the vehicles systems.

There are three infront of the intake and three underneath it. Make sure you have a gasket ready to replace the one that will be ruined.

One of the first things I would check is to see if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging. It's easiest if you have someone else to help. Open your hood and have someone standing in front of the vehicle. Start your vehicle and press the A/C button to turn on the A/C. When you press the button have the other person standing outside the vehicle listen for a clicking sound. If they hear it then it's engaging properly, but if not then there is a problem with your A/C clutch. Let me know if this helps.

they are a bit hard to remove, best way to do it is, after you have removed the nuts, lift the arm straight up on its tention so its in the air, then get a cloth or rag, rap round the bottom under the arm, then tap the centre of the arm and pull at same time...NOTE!!! do not tap hard as you can ruin the thread for the nuts, so little taps should do it5...hope that helps

unhook battery for 5 minutes turn key while battery is unhooked then put cables back on battery and light will be gone if not wrong sensor was installed make sure you bleed lines again

One of your rear lights is blown out.

These engines have been known for faulty cam seals (eg. Montero, Montero Sport (Nativa), Endeavor). You might not see oil on the ground because it gets burned up by the exhaust. Check that first.

Not normal, clean burning engine, mine has 220,000 kms's. Are you using a full synthetic oil? Tried it a couple times and it took 1 litre between oil changes. I use semi synthetic oil, no issues. How long has it been burning this amount of oil? Get to your dealer and have him fix your engine.

On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls

then i would say take it back to them as the guy was blind or nuts,,, there is some thing wrong with it, read the computer coads again

On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls.

you will need to clear the a/c water drain. find out where the drain tube is and slide a small wire up inside to clear the drain.

may need a motor, or regulator replaced, and also lube the heck out of all the joints, also lube the track the window rides agnst...good luck

What about blow-by gas? Has it got excessive pressure? you can determine this by pulling the distick out while engine is running and check the pressure of the gas.