20 Most Recent 2005 Mazda 3 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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Could be the speedometer, or the speed sensor in the transmission.Is the check engine light staying on ?If it is, you should have the computer scanned for trouble codes. You may find a code for the sensor.

I had same problem with Nissan 4x4 took it done to auto elec he couldn,t find the short so he put in a resetting fuse so if it happened sometimes it would not blow fuse but reset, but that made no sense so after a month I worked out what was causing it.The alternator had a bear wire in side that touched other wires when driving over bumps so it was shorting out ignition and petrol pump fuse, so got another alternator from the wreakers and it never happened again apparently its common. seaya Neil

Possible bad connection on the battery?

Possible causes - Faulty Fuel Injector - Faulty Fuel Injector Interface Module - Fuel Injector harness is open or shorted - Fuel Injector circuit poor electrical connection

BOTH bolts are removed? Yes, sometimes they can stick. Usually light prying under the collar with a large screwdriver or fine tip prybar...NOT a large hammer preferably but some people dont mind beating up a known bad starter they are removing anyway..get the screwdriver between the bellhowsing and the starter collar and it should free up relatively easily. If you cannot make it move and you are certain you didnt leave one of the bolts in and accidentally remove a bolt NEXT TO one that holds the starter...you could also try spraying some WD40 or equivalent on the collar...that has been known to help.

Blocked exhaust

Might have to remove the entire light assembly to gain access to the bulbs. Check with your local dealer or look it up on YouTube for a video.

The solution posted on Sep 8 2008 is good. Let me just add my own observations.

First of all, the bulb you will need is probably going to be H-7. Just go to the auto parts store and find the bulb that says H-7 on it. Apparently you're not supposed to replace just one bulb. You should replace them both at the same time, so buy two bulbs ($27.00). Also, I needed a flathead screwdriver and a pair of latex gloves. Don't try to do this at nighttime. You will need plenty of light.

If you're replacing the driver's side light, you'll have to remove a plastic shield from above the light. Not a big deal. Use a philipshead screwdriver and a pair of pliars (gently!). Remove the black plug that goes into the back of the bulb by squeezing the sides and pulling. Then remove the black rubber boot that goes over it. The flathead screwdriver was helpful getting the boot off.

When removing the silver clip that holds the bulb in, you'll have to push in on the side of the clip closer to the driver's side of the car. (Please note that it is not necessary to unscrew any screws.) It swivels open like a door.

Next, remove the bulb. The bulb is attached to a black adapter thing. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry that black thing off the bulb. Throw the old bulb in the garbage. Put your latex gloves on and put the new bulb into the black adapter thing. (Remember not to touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers. It's not good for the bulb and you will decrease its lifespan.)

Put the bulb with the black adapter thing into the headlight. You may have to fiddle with it a little bit. (You're still wearing your latex gloves, right?) It only goes one way. There's a little notch that fits into the ten o'clock position. (Just rotate the bulb in the headlight. You'll see where it fits in.)

Close the silver clip back over the bulb. This part may be challenging. Remember, the bulb should have no wiggle to it when the silver clip is installed correctly. The end of the clip fits deep inside the headlight. Push it in and try and find where it clips in. It might be hard to do. Don't get frustrated- you're almost done.

Put the rubber boot back on. It has to be tight to protect the bulb from water. Then plug in the bulb. Replace the black plastic shield over the driver's side light. Finally, test the light.

Replacing both headlights took me about 60 - 90 minutes.

From Wikipedia.. "The Mazda3 or Mazda 3 (known as the Mazda Axela in Japan) is a compact car manufactured in Japan by the Mazda Motor Corporation. It was introduced in 2003 as a 2004 model, replacing the Familia/323/Proteg?. A performance-oriented version of the Mazda3 is marketed as the Mazdaspeed3 in North America, Mazdaspeed Axela in Japan and the Mazda3 MPS in Europe. A second generation Mazda3 for the 2010 model year was unveiled in late 2008, with the sedan premiering at the Los Angeles Auto Show and the hatchback at the Bologna Auto Show. For the 2012 model year, Mazda began offering the Mazda3 with their newly developed SkyActiv technology, including a more rigid body, a new direct injection engine, and a new 6-speed transmission.[6] The current third generation was introduced in mid-2013 as a 2014 model." My guess is the transmission from 2004 to 2009 mike be cross compatible. I would go to Autozone and ask or call the parts department at department at a local Madza dealer.

The fuse could be burnt out, the lighter coil could be burnt out, or the hot wire or ground could be loose.

This happens often if the car has been bumped, nudged, or touched heavily. Security sensors are operating normally. This happens to me if I haven't unlocked the doors prior to snow removal.

If cleaning the sensor doesn't work a replacement is about $150. follow the link for more info http://www.autozmagz.com/search/2005+mazda+3+map+sensor+located

you will need to check all you fuses on the car its self and for the remote start system. also there is usually a switch to turn off the start function. the switch could be off or bad also. hope these few tips help. you could also have a loose wire to the starter or the relay could have went too. good luck.