20 Most Recent 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You can test the pack. Not sure what the tolerances for this particular pack are, but the Primary should read in the .3-.9 ohm range and the secondary usually usually 1.0-9.0 ohms range. If you get some resistance at all, it is likely not bad. If there is zero resistance at either primary or secondary, it is probably bad and needs replacing,

You have water getting into your engine bay, it may be running down the firewall to your ECM and PCM cable bundles and seeping into the car or you may be spraying water into your airbox. check to make sure your airbox is tight and look and feel under your dash for a wet spot near the fire wallis it's your airbox,,,, stop spraying at it, if it's wet under your dash take it to a shop to get it sealed correctly

When a car is going uphill, it has to use more power to get up the hill. Most automatic transmission cars will automatically detect this, and shift into a lower gear to get the car up the hill easier. As you get to the top or let off the gas, the car should than shift into a higher gear to maximize fuel efficiency. What does your transmission seem to do? Not want to go into a lower gear, are the RPMs jumping up and down before it shifts?

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Hi. You need to take off the cover at the footwell to gain access to the brake pedal. Remove the 4 pin plug at the back of the switch. now turn the switch anticlockwise about 90' and the switch will come out. to install the new one, line up the switch so the notches go into the bracket correctly and push the switch in to locate it. keep the brake pedal in the off ( home) position and turn the switch clockwise about 90' till it comes to a stop. refit the plug and trim. Good luck.

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You DO NOT go to inspection without either working on all vehicles or at least use a professional scanner to see if all 8 monitors have run If they haven't run or you have a fault code after they run, you fail inspection So you get the Evap Codes,diagnose that system & it's components, until you find where a vacuum leak is or what solenoid failed. That is best done at a shop with a smoke machine & knowledge Emission Monitors run on their own every few days What your referring to is Drive Cycles after certain repairs have been made You don't do them either,a shop does before you get the car back or they are useless & you don't go their,too technical for you to do & the info has to be looked up You need a clear piece of roadway with no traffic to to Drive Cycles

CHECK FUSES FIRST !!!!LET ME KNOW!!!

There's really nothing in the linkage that would go that would not interfere with the forward gears. It sounds like you have fine fluid pressure in the transmission if the forward gears work ok, but the loss of reverse sounds like either a solenoid in the valve body is not working (which may set a fault in the transmission control module) or that something is blocking the fluid flow (some of the channels in the valve body are tiny and it would only take a grain of debris) I would say that your first step would be to have the modules scanned. This is the least expensive and least intrusive procedure. After that you may want to have them drop the transmission pan and inspect and see of there is excessive debris in the pan, indicating the failure of one of the clutch packs or other internal wear- It's usually OK to see fine "glitter" in the pan, but NOT OK to see "metal flake" or any chunks. If everything looks good, it may be worth it to try changing the fluid completely and seeing if that solved the problem- it takes more pressure to activate reverse than the other gears, so if your fluid is low it won't build enough pressure. If none of the above work, then the problem is likely farther internal- it could be the valve body, but that's an expensive part to "test" since you can't replace it, and it's usually more feasible at that point to simply go all the way and replace the transmission.

Hi, Sounds like coolant in the oil. Which indicates a bad head gasket and/or crack in a cylinder. This job is expensive to do. 800 + dallars. Please see mechanic for further advice.

Look at the passenger side of your hood that is where the hose goes for the washer fluid you will need some hose and a couple of clamps to connect the broken pipe then you should be good

DISCONNECT BATERRY AND LEAVE DISCONECTED FOR MORE THAN 5 MINUTES!!LET ME KNOW!!

run the fault codes first to check for ignition/plugs-leads -coils and fuel pressure /injector problems . If auo box check for faulty TCM and if manual clutch check for clutch engagement and hydraulic/ cable problems as the deceleration to allow the car to cat up to the rpms indicates a slipping clutch or if auto the bands and clutch packs are not operating correctly.

Check timing of the engine is right using an engine timing light. Make sure the timing belt or chain isn't worn or slack. The head gasket could also have gone and may need replacing.