20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Mustang - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Don't think it is the computer , wiring issue more then likely ! P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Malfunction Do you know anything about testing automotive electronics , an electrical circuits ? ECM Inputs and Outputs Diagnosis Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Do you have an know how to use a digital volt ohm meter ? How to use a wiring diagram to pin point testing areas in a wiring harness . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams ! CAM or Camshaft Position Sensor Testing

Hi Before Battery Change
• When was/or when did you notice alarm green light illuminated?
• When after alarm was disarmed, did green light shine?
First thing to check would be electrical connections starting from the battery.
1. Follow positive wire lead from battery to fuse box connections. (Should be along driver side frame rail, or near battery.)
2. Follow wrie harness to Relay Center. (Find Alarm Relay/Fuse)
3. Also to Power Distribution Center. (upper driver corner engine bay)
Relay Switch and Fuse to Alarm should be okay, given the alarm green light illumination. The Cars Brain, ECM Engine Control Module, manages messeges between power BattV and Alarm, also other modules and various sensors throughout the vehicle. When Battery Supply was disconnected, something happened, that stunned the memory in the ECM. Yes, the alarm does need resetting, its actually the memory messages saved in ECM need to be Refreshed. (saying "alarm needs resetting") sounds like alarm is broken, when that is not the case. Similar scenario is, when smart phone screen webpage freezes(alarm memory info in ECU). No buttons work, not even power button (Key Fob control). Only way to gain access is to remove battery. Lets try an experiment, this will be to loose still/saved frozen information, stuck in computer memory. How to Reset Vehicle Computer.
1. Remove Neggative Post connection.
2. Remove Positive Post connection.
3. Let vehicle sit over Two Minutes, this time allows capacitors in vehicle Modules (ECM/PCM, TCM), to release any/all stored voltage, also any voltage in Vehicles ground circuit will be released.
   • (I would typically wait 15 minutes) Capacitors with out constant Voltage input, will disipate rather quickly, depending on capacity size.
4. With Battery Still Disconnected. Open Driver Car door, and turn Ignition to RUN Position.
5. Reconnect Positive Post.
6. Reconnect Negative Post.
   • IGNITION is in RUN Position, when reconnecting Battery. Driver Door Is Open.
7. Turn Ignition to Off.
• Notice if alarm green light is illuminated.
8. Hit LOCK Button On Driver Door Switch to Reinitialize Alarm.
• Be SURE Key Fob not locked in car.

EVAP (Evaporative Emission control system),canister vent solenoid or control circuit malfunction. Make sure your connections,vacuum and electrical are good on the lines to evap canister. Don't keep filling the tank when the gas nozzle kicks off the first or second time if you have been. don-ohio

hmmm seems like there's an issue with the switch wires being damaged some place....i dont have any wiring info on cars but it seems like something electrical is wrong

That sounds normal. There would be specifications for it that you should check, but that sounds pretty normal. The specs probably show a pressure for idle at normal operating temperature, and another figure at a specified engine rpm. Or it may just have one spec at a certain rpm.

What do you want to know ? Automatic smart junction box ? It's called just SJB - smart junction box !

Replace the neutral safety switch/ range selector switch. This should take care of both codes. Mounted on the transmission under where the shift cable connects.

Because the PCM went into default mode when you unplugged it. When you plugged it back in, the PCM tried to adjust and reset. Opening the IAC motor causing to much air to come in and killed the engine. Fairly normal response for the engine. Since you modified the engine, did you modify the PCM? Can't do one with out the other.

if you have an obd scanner check the codes.....could be as simple as a dirty fuel filter...also shows symptoms of a failing fuel pump (electric, mounted inside tank)....If you dont have access to an obd ll scanner, take it to n Auto Zone, Murrays, Napa, Firestone, or Goodyear, they will usually scan it for free........good luck.

Its always a good idea to double check codes especially with sensors, if its the heater circut replace o2 if its out of range reset and see if returns

sounds like the transmission is low on fluid. Have you noticed any fluid on the ground under the car? Have any mechanic check the level, could be a rear main seal leaking. If not then you have transmission problems. Also try putting the car in low gear and see if it does the same thing. could possibly be just a linkage problem and an adjustment will cure it..again any good mechanic can figure it out easily....good luck

replaced fuel filter yet ? have you checked fuel pressure and the fuel regulator

go to 2005 ford mustang owners manual and download it for free from ford inside it will have a fuse box diagram

turning the heat on lowers the temperature of the water running through the engine which in turn lowers the pressure in the radiator

Factory of aftermarket stereo/system ?? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

Is it leaking engine coolant or only when it rains on the car. If it is engine coolant. you need to replace your heater core...

I can think of three things to check off the top of my head. The console light switch, the driver and passenger door switches, and any other interior switches. The door switches will be normally-open switches and if they have failed closed, the light will stay on. If you can get to the switches individually, you can take off a wire at each switch and see if the light goes off. I have to say, I assume that you already checked your console light switch setup?