Top 10 2005 Dodge Caravan Questions & Answers

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EGR Valve - Engine Option Code

I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L engine, and have been getting a warning light. OBD test says it's the EGR valve. I have done a little tapping with a plastic hammer, which seems to help, but the light returns. I've tried to buy a new one, but I'm told by the parts stores that I have to have the 'Engine Option Code (Xzz)'. One suggested that it might be on the valve itself, but I can't tell unless I take it off.

Can you please tell me how I can find the Engine Option Code?

Thanks,

Dennis Lackey

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Hi, this is my first post. I had the same problem with my 2005 Grand Caravan. Great van, but all of the sudden, the check engine light came on, and then it started driving "jerky." I found this post, along with others on the web, and diagnosed it myself. Let me outline how I did that, since this will accumulate info from several different sites:

1. I turned the ignition key from the "on" to the "run" position about 5 times, and a code showed up in the mileage slot. My code was P 0404, which read more like "tripP 0404".
2. I looked up that code on google, and also asked the guy at Autozone. Both said it was a bad EGR valve.

**Side note: there is a little thing here in the 2005 Grand Caravan called a "XZZ Option Code" in relation to the EGR valve. As in, when you go to get a new EGR valve, they are going to ask you if you need the "XZZ Option" or the "XZZ Exception." When you ask the guy at Autozone what the difference is, he doesn't know. So, after a little research, the difference is this: if your VIN has the letters "XZZ" in it, then you need the "XZZ Option." If your VIN doesn't have "XZZ" then you don't need that option. (Thanks a lot, Dodge, for that bit of stupidity.)***

3. Autozone didn't have the EGR in stock, but Federated Auto Parts (aka KOI, in our area--Cincinnati) had five in stock, so I got one--it cost me about $85.00
4. After getting home, I changed it out, in the following steps.
a. I disconnected the battery.
b. I disconnected the electrical line coming to the EGR (by the way, the EGR sits just above the alternator...and if you don't know what the alternator is, take the parts to your local mechanic and ask him to change it out for you...)
c. I disconnected the vacuum line that comes into the top of the EGR, as well as disconnecting the other end of that line, just to get it out of the way. That took 4 bolts, and they were 8 mm.
d. I removed the two bolts (10mm) holding the EGR in place, and they were a bit tight to get to. I would suggest a 1/4" drive U-joint to get to the bottom one, but a two inch extension held just right will get the job done--I didn't have the u-joint for my socket so it can be done without it...not much fun though.)
e. I replaced the metal gasket (it came in the box with the new EGR), and reversed the steps to put everything back together.

After restarting and test driving the minivan, I have no check engine light, and the "shuttering" is gone. I'm about to drive to Texas next week...we'll see if it solved the problem. More news later.

I love the internet. Ride free, citizen!
"Some people have money. Some people have knowledge. Unfortunately, the people with knowledge usually end up with the other people's money."

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

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2005 Dodge caravan dashboard indicator lights and dials went haywire

Yesterday my 2005 Dodge Caravan a 3.2L-V6 with about 10,000 miles on it, had all the dashboard indicator lights turn on while driving and at the same time the speedometer, fuel and temperature guages moved wildly as well. Fourtunetly handling, braking and acceleration were not affected during the event which lasted a minute or two then all indicator lights and guages returned back to normal with no further problems for now. Any ideas what happened and could it happen again?

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2005 Caravan I had the same problem with my van gauges bounceing, headlights not comeing on when the switch was turned on.I took a day and downloaded a wireing diagram from dodge and studyed it.GROUND PROBLEM dodge have several ground conections to the body then there is one MAIN BODY GROUND.This is most likely your problem it is easy for any back yard mechanic to fix.This main body ground is located under your battery box.You will have to remove the battery and then the battery box becarful of the battery sensor that is mounted in the bottom of the box.Also there is a hose that you will have to disconnect but dont try to remove it from the box remove it from above the box.After you get the battery and box out you will see a threaded stud with a black wire conected to it this will be rusted because of no antioxide grease applyed.You will have to remove the nut and wire connector clean both and the stud with wire brush or sandpaper.Put antioxide grease or if nothing else some vaseline to keep it from coroading again.put back together and see if this dosent fix your problem.It has been six weeks for me now.good luck.dont forget that neg battery terminal is the first one to disconect and the last to reconect.

Posted on Sep 26, 2008

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engine code p0406 dodge caravan

engine code p0406 dodge caravan

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Hi:
The P0406 code is set normally when there is a open circuit inside the erg valve sensor. this code is not normally related to a valve sticking open- this could cause a low speed or coast down stall.
I would take a screw driver and push the red locking clip sideways to release the lock and take the connector off and look for loose or pushed out wire terminals. reconnect the wiring and tap on the side of the egr valve several times .
You can disconnect the battery to clear the fault and test drive the van. If the problem does not come back after driving for 10 miles or so its intermittent . And not active at this time .
This code may not come back on until your trip is done. This fault will not cause the van to die in flight.
You can drive it like this if needed. The worst that can happen is excessive spark knock-pinging on acceleration . If it does, back off some on the gas pedal.

Posted on Apr 20, 2010

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where is the radio fuse on a 2005 dodge caravan please

where is the radio fuse on a 2005 dodge caravan please

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In the fuse box under the hood it is the fuse marked rdo/ign (look on inside of lid for location) Just pulled mine a few minutes ago for an eject problem I found the solution for on this very forum!!

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

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2005 Dodge Caravan Radio CD Player & Clock Not Working

On our recent drive to the airport our radio, clock, CD player and the A/C plugs in the front all lost power/stopped working. We tried to look for a fuse, then tried googling for what it might be but haven't had any luck. Everything else is working fine (interior lights, A/C plugs in the back, power windows, etc.) We'd REALLY like to avoid taking it in to have it repaired but I kinda like having a radio in the car and REALLY like having a way to plug my laptop in when we're on a long drive. Any suggestions?

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Try checking the RDO/IP IGN fuse in the fusebox in the engine compartment, ours was blown

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

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plug wire diagram for 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.3

plug wire diagram for 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.3

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This firing order diagram should help you out.


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Posted on Jun 11, 2010

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code p0406 dodge grand caravan 3.8 engine. Is it

code p0406 dodge grand caravan 3.8 engine. Is it the EGR valve or the O2 sensor?

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P406 is a EGR code, EGR will also cause a knocking/ pinging sound when there bad. Very common problem. The position sensor inside the valve goes bad. Your going to have to replace the whole EGR valve and it can put out variety of codes from P0401 to P0406. The new valve will solve the problem and easy to replace, you can pick one up at Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step instructions to replacing the EGR with common tools. Good luck and hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L

2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L code p2305 ignition coil b secondary circuit. has no spark on 2 of 6 cylinders. I have replaced the coil spark plug wires and spark plugs. found some broken wires for the remote start that a mouse has chewed and fixed them but still missing.

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Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.

Posted on May 08, 2011

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how to change oil pan gasket for 2005 dodge

how to change oil pan gasket for 2005 dodge caravan

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Caravan, Grand Voyager, Town and Country, Voyager, 2000-2004

Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

2.4L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Structural collar A/C compressor bracket to oil pan bolt Oil pan
  4. Clean the oil pan and all gasket mating surfaces.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Oil pan gasket to the block after applying engine RTV at the oil pump parting line Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Structural collar Negative battery cable
  2. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
  3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

3.0L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Starter motor Front motor mount bracket Bending braces Torque converter dust shield Oil pan

    e6c7cfd.jpg
    Fig. Oil pan mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine

To install:
  1. Clean the oil pan all mating surfaces.
  2. Apply RTV gasket material to the oil pan.
  3. Install or connect the following:
    Oil pan. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Torque converter dust shield Bending braces Front motor mount bracket Starter motor Negative battery cable
  4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
  5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

3.3L & 3.8L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket

To install:
  1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
  2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
  3. Install or connect the following:
    New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
  4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
  5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Posted on Jun 25, 2010

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how do i change the rear spark plugs in a dodge

how do i change the rear spark plugs in a dodge 2005 caravan 3.8 engine

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There are tow ways to get to the plugs, You can get to them from the top or from the bottom. There's quite a bit a bit of room in the transmission tunnel, and you can reach up and actually touch the plugs. There is trouble with the "alternator plug" (#1) , Hard to reach it from below, and you may ended up removing the alternator bracket and shoving the alternator back. 
From the top end,  removed the windshield wipers/cowl assembly, the intake plenum, remove the bracket from the alternator, easy, and the hardest part is just removing the bracket holding a wire harness from the back of the plenum, the bolts are a little hard to get to due to the a/c lines, but after they were out the plenum removed with ease and I replaced the back plugs(with champion double platinum RN14PMP5 OEM's) and replace the spark plug wires with BWD Selects. They are very good wires. Used anti-seize of course. Mounted the wire harness bracket back, put the plenum(with new gasket), vacuum lines, sensors, and alt.bracket back on then changed out the front ones. Replaced Wipers and your good to go. 

Note: if from the bottom  rotate the alternator to get the pass side and from below to get the middle and drivers side. You can use a jack stands and a creeper. Takes about an hour. Yes it's a PITA but, going from below greatly reduces the chance of spinning a bolt head off or breaking something else in the process of getting to the plugs. No special tools needed.   Good luck and if your lazy like i am just change the front ones and have a local shop replace the rear, they have the lift and will only cost an hour shop rate in your area. $65.00/hour average

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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