20 Most Recent 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan - Page 2 Questions & Answers

3.3L?
Looking at the engine from front (right side of the Van): Stating at the Top, Going Left to Right and Clockwise:
Over the Alternator
To under the Idle Pulley,
To Over the AC Compressor.
To the Left Side of the Water Pump.
To the Right side and Under the Crankshaft Pulley
To the Right side and Over and Down the Tensioner
To Under the Power Steering Pump
And Back up-to the Left side of the Alternator.
Advise when puting it on:
Put the Belt around everything else accept for the Alternator. After it is around all the rest of the Pulleys - Pull the belt up - tight from the Power steering Pump and the Idle Pulley to form a loop, holding the Belt close to the Altenator Pulley.
Using the 15mm wrench or belt tensioner bar - rotate the Tensioner Pulley towards the front of the Van and then place the belt over the Alternator.
Let me know if this helped or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

its not reading the coil pack. could be a faulty coil pack or a fault with the wires from the ecu to the coil pack. if coil pack is cracked any were on it it will need to be replaced.

A fuel rail, technically known as a common rail, is essentially a pipe (usually resembling a rail) used to deliver fuel to individual fuel injectors on internal combustion engines. It is designed to have a pocket or seat for each injector as well as an inlet for a fuel supply. Some fuel rails also incorporate an attached fuel pressure regulator. Fuel rails are used on engines with multi-point fuel injection systems, although some multi-point systems use a fuel distributor with individual pipes or tubes to feed each injector.

Two things first the belt might be too old and stretched and need replacement or 2 the tension pulley on the engine may be bad and need to be replaced/ tightened

autozone.com. then look under repair help. become a member (free) and you get loads of repair manual pages for your car available for free.

If it is cranking then it is turning over. If you mean that it is not starting then Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as non-genuine replacement are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units. This results in the fault codes not cancelling out.

the fuel rail is located under the intake plenum

Here's a link to the heater core.

Could be a problem with the gauge in the instrument cluster, or the wiring that goes back to the tank, or the sending unit in the tank.The sending unit has a float much like your toilet which could stick or fail to move.

If this is the 3.0L double overhead cam chrysler engine it is more complicated than some of the others, After disconnecting the battery, set the timing to number one cylinder cause alignment of timing belt is critical. you have to remove all the drive belts, the a/c stuffk, the alternator, power steering stuff, ac bracket, belt tensioner, all that stuff in front of engine cause you have to remove timing cover. you need to remember where everything goes back... After you get the power steering and all that other stuff off, your next thing is to remove the crankshaft pulleys and front engine mount. Then you have to remove all the upper and lower timing belt covers & keep track of where the fastners go. Then of course you have ato losen the timing belt tensioner bolt, belt & crankshaft flange shield. Do not let the cam sprockets move, make something to hold them or buy the tool. instillation,reverse of above, timing belt tensioner counterclockwise, tighten so tht you can put belt on... belt on crank pully first, etc. timing marks on cams are triangle with scribe mark on engine block; on crank it lines up with mark on oil pump... rotate engine a few turns after installing belt so that marks line up every time again, so that you dont have to take it apart. now put all the accessory and so forth stuff back on... This is probably an all day job... Hope this helps you, Rick

are there any codes? it is a shift solenoid in the transmission

you can but it takes time to figure out which length of belt you need.talk to a parts person to see if they have a listing for this car without a/c you might get luck.just make sure you route the belt correctly so all pulleys rotate in the same direction as before you bypassed the a/c compressor.i`ve done this on customers vans for the same reason as you but its been a while.

Drive Belts

• INSPECTION
• ADJUSTMENT
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Print

INSPECTION See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Check the condition and tension of all drive belts every 12,000 miles, or at least once a year. Loose drive belts can lead to poor engine cooling and diminished alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or emission air pump output. A belt that is too tight places a strain on the bearings in the driven component.

Fig. Fig. 1: There are typically 3 types of accessory drive belts found on vehicles today

Fig. Fig. 2: An example of a healthy drive belt

Fig. Fig. 3: Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that will eventually lead to belt failure

Fig. Fig. 4: The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing cords to excessive wear

Fig. Fig. 5: Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or breakage Replace any drive belt that is glazed, worn, cracked, or stretched to the point where correct adjustment tension is impossible. If two belts are used to drive a component, always replace both belts when replacement is necessary. After installing a new belt, run the engine for ten minutes, shut OFF the engine and recheck the belt tension. Readjust if necessary.

ADJUSTMENT See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

Fig. Fig. 6: Engine belt tension chart-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 7: Engine belt tension chart-1987-89 2.5L engines

Fig. Fig. 8: Engine belt tension chart-2.6L engines

Fig. Fig. 9: Engine belt tension chart-1990-93 models

Fig. Fig. 10: Engine belt tension chart-1994-95 models Two popular methods of checking drive belt adjustment are; the Belt Tension Gauge Method and the Belt Deflection Method. The former requires a special gauge and the latter requires a straight edge and scale or just a good eye for measurement. The deflection method will be used in the following belt replacement instructions. A rule of thumb for checking belt tension by the deflection method is to determine the midpoint between two pulleys of the drive belt and press down at that point with moderate thumb pressure. The belt should deflect to the measurement indicated in the following installation procedures. Adjustment is necessary if the belt is either too loose or too tight. WARNING A belt adjustment which is either too loose or too tight will eventually damage the accessory that belt is driving. A too loose adjustment allows free-play in the belt which could transfer a whipping motion or shock to the accessory drive pulley. Similarly, a belt which is too tight will preload the accessory bearings, leading to early failure.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION See Figure 11 Raise the front of the vehicle, support on jackstands and remove the lower splash shield if access is hampered due to space limitations when changing drive belts.

Fig. Fig. 11: Support the vehicle, then remove the lower right side splash shield for access to the drive belts 2.2L EnginesA/C COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT See Figures 12, 13 and 14

Fig. Fig. 12: A/C compressor drive belt adjusting points-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 13: Loosening the locking screws for A/C compressor drive belt removal

Fig. Fig. 14: Removing the A/C compressor drive belt from under the vehicle

1. Loosen the idler pulley bracket pivot screw and the locking screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a breaker bar and socket apply torque to the welded nut provided on the mounted bracket to obtain proper tension.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, followed by pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (CHRYSLER TYPE) See Figures 15 and 16

Fig. Fig. 15: Alternator belt adjustment-2.2L engine

Fig. Fig. 16: Loosening the locking screw for alternator drive belt removal If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking screw, and the adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking screw to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (BOSCH TYPE) If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

POWER STEERING BELT If removal of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be removed.

1. Loosen the locking screw, and pivot screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the pump bracket slot, apply pressure with the breaker bar and adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, then the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

AIR PUMP DRIVE BELT See Figure 17

Fig. Fig. 17: Air pump belt adjustment-2.2L engines When servicing the air pump, use the square holes provided in the pulley to prevent camshaft rotation.

1. Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the drive pulley cover.
2. Remove the locking bolt and pivot bolt from the pump bracket, then remove the pump.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Position the pump, then install the locking bolt and pivot bolt finger-tight.
5. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the bracket assembly (block the drive pulley to prevent camshaft rotation), and adjust the belt to specification.
6. Tighten locking bolt and pivot bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

2.5L EnginesAIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR See Figure 18

Fig. Fig. 18: Drive belt adjustment points-2.5L engines

1. Loosen the idler bracket pivot screw and the locking screws to replace, or adjust belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by applying torque to weld nut on the idler bracket.
4. Tighten locking screw first, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR BELT See Figure 18 If replacement of the alternator belt is required, the A/C drive belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP See Figure 18 If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be remove.

1. Loosen the locking screw and pivot screw to replace, or adjust the belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar positioned in adjusting bracket slot, adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

2.6L EnginesALTERNATOR/AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR BELT See Figure 19

Fig. Fig. 19: Drive belt adjustment points-2.6L engines

1. Loosen the locking screw, jam nut, and pivot nut.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
5. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot nut. Tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Tighten the jam nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP BELT See Figure 19 If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the alternator and A/C belt must first be remove.

1. Loosen the pivot screw, and the locking screw.
2. Remove the timing pickup.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar in the adjusting bracket slot, torque to specification.
5. Tighten the locking screw, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
6. Install the timing pick-up, and tighten to 160 inch lbs. (18 Nm).

Depends on why the brakes are not working. The only reason you would have to bleed brakes is if air got into the brake lines and the only way air can get into the brake lines is if the master cyl went dry, which means you have a leak somewhere or someone made a repair and removed a line, which will allow air to enter the system. Other than that the brakes could be severly worn.

They are flexible rubber brake hosesIf you try an auto parts store, they will help youIf they can't get the parts, because of a junction blockor brass T-fitting in the hose assy,then a dealer can get itI would do the front also,if the rear blew out